Hey!

I recently got a massive check engine light due to multiple misfires so I changes the spark plugs and then it was running a bit better, not perfect tho. Fast-forward I just came back from a two week vacation and took it for a drive and everything was wrong with it. Can't really explain what, just wasn't running normally, idle is fine but the drive quality just isn't there.

Anyone know what could be wrong, I was thinking about changing the battery??
Also when I first started it up it was extremely loud, too loud but I think that's normal for leaving it 2 weeks.

FYI:
- fixed a valve cover leak
-intake is fine
- recent oil change
-new spark plugs
-got a couple mods but nothing crazy

 

Sorry to hear about your car. I understand your frustration.
What are your mods? Even though you say its simple modifications , bolt on mods can cause issues such as intakes, exhaust, BOV’s and piggy back tunes can change ecu parameters changing the air fuel ratios which in turns causes the issues.

What code did you throw?
- Try changing the ignition coils.
- Carbon clean your intake valves either with CRC intake turbo cleaner or goto the Mini dealership and have them check the issue to give you the diagnosis.
Remember these car are direct injection so carbon build up happens quickly causing poor running conditions. Mods accelerates this issue if not tuned properly.

 

Hey,

So here is a list of my mods:
- Cold air intake
-new turbo(old one was shot)
-BOV adapter
-Piggy back tune from NM
-new tubing(intake to turbo)

And that's it
I'ill try removing the tune. Also the codes were just misfires I don't remember what code exactly
I'm friends with a guy that owns a repair shop, ill ask him if he could help me check out the carbon built up cuz I don't have the tools.

Thanks a lot for the reply, I didn't know I had to tune my car after modding it, I though it was only for big mods and that the car would just tune by itself for smaller mods.

 

- Intake systems don’t normally cause issues alone…but they due change ecu parameters due to larger volume of air coming in threw the intake system also the intakes tubes (if there not OEM).
- If you got a newer turbo and its not the OEM turbo (slightly higher performance turbo) the same goes as above. Your change volumes and pressure of air flow cause the ECU to exceed or max out its parameters and the ecu can compensate or provide more fuel ( air/ fuel ratio ).
- I have the same NM engineering Piggy back system. It causes the OEM plugs to run way to hot and burns out hot plugs quickly. I turn causing premature failure to the coil packs. You need step colder plugs. (Out motoring sell them). Again, with aftermarket intake, intake tubes we/ NM piggy back ECU, you’re changing quite a bit of parameters of the stock system causing issues.
I say go back to stock and maybe keep the NM ECU with step colder plugs and new coil packs.
- The NM ECU causes the turbo to push a little more boost causing the BOV wastgate to work harder causing premature failure. This in turn causes the car to have erratic symptoms under acceleration.

basically you have all the parts to cause poor running conditions. The R60/ 61 doesn’t take aftermarket bolt on’s that effect air and fuel lightly. These parts require Dyno tuning.

My husband and I have 3 Mini’s some tuned and a very high horse powered turboed Subaru STi with very high HP. Turbo cars require dyno tuning when you add power mods. Also the ignition and fuel system needs to be properly modified to compensate for such mods.

Get the following:
- Put as many parts you modded back to OEM
- new coil packs
- if you can put back the OEM BOV system
- carbon clean ( walnut blast or CRC cleaner ).

 

Thanks for the advice, sir.

 

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