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R60/R61 Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.
Hey guys I recently upgraded my turbo to a GTD47. I have all the necessary mods installed for the turbo and I started to get a half lit CEL with loss of Power.
I checked the codes and they were for the VANOS Solenoid. I took them out and checked them and they were filled with little metals shavings.
I'm afraid that it's sign of a failing timing chain. I cleaned them up while I wait on new parts and no more CEL but on low RPM I get a red Oil Light. No issues while on highway speeds but as soon as I'm idling or at low RPM I get this issue.
Any suggestions on how to check if my timing chain is bad? Or if switching out the VANOS Solenoid could solve the issue. Thanks! Rear Vanos Solenoid
That's a lot of metal shavings. Drain the oil and drop the pan. I would hope it didn't come from the kit you just installed but maybe it was an isolated incident. You'll definitely need to swap the filter if the pan is just as shiny. The VANOS solenoids just need a hit of parts cleaner if you can get all the shiny stuff off them.
As for the timing, I know you can use the dummy tensioner out of the camlock kit to measure the chain length and see if its stretched. You insert the dummy tensioner and screw it in until it touches the guide, torque to 0.6nm and then screw the lock nut flush to the tensioner. You measure from the bottom of the knurled part to the end that's inserted in the motor with a caliper. 67mm and you're good. 68mm and higher and there is something screwy.
That's a lot of metal shavings. Drain the oil and drop the pan. I would hope it didn't come from the kit you just installed but maybe it was an isolated incident. You'll definitely need to swap the filter if the pan is just as shiny. The VANOS solenoids just need a hit of parts cleaner if you can get all the shiny stuff off them.
As for the timing, I know you can use the dummy tensioner out of the camlock kit to measure the chain length and see if its stretched. You insert the dummy tensioner and screw it in until it touches the guide, torque to 0.6nm and then screw the lock nut flush to the tensioner. You measure from the bottom of the knurled part to the end that's inserted in the motor with a caliper. 67mm and you're good. 68mm and higher and there is something screwy.
Thank you! I'll give it a try tonight and post back here
Thank you! I'll give it a try tonight and post back here
Ended up dropping the pan. No metal shavings there. Replaced oil filter with a KN filter. New oil change. Swapped out the VANOS Solenoids. And swapped out both cam shaft angle sensors. Car is running like new with No CEL or low oil light.
I guess whenever the turbo went out on my car it messed with the oil system. But glad it's all fixed.