R60/R61 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.

transfer case on all4 s

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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 06:25 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
here are some info:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=27_0064
I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/ to get the parts. I just got stuck on that huge. how can that be removed?

I think you are referring to the driveshaft nut. It is reverse thread and took a real big boy bar to crack it loose.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2018 | 06:31 PM
  #52  
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I knew it was reverse but I think I went ahead of myself and took the whole thing out with the shaft....I couldn't break it loose. So i put it back and never done anything on it!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 05:28 AM
  #53  
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I am feeling pretty certain I might be on the list here for a new TC. 2013 AT w/ 60K miles.

Took a 3 hour trip this weekend...started hearing a radial thumping sound....like a helicopter. Would get substantially worse with any throttle applied. Going down a hill (no throttle) it would also feel perfectly fine.
Of course it was its worst from 65-75 (speed limit was 70 whole way). If I went 80, you could tell it was there but I think it was wound up so fast it wasnt as bad. If I was going slower (say, 67MPH) and put it in manual mode and dropped it to 5th, it would rev to 3K and smooth out some. Around town it seems to drive just fine.

A few instances since we've owned it from 40K miles, we would get a weird vibration taking off from stops...I thought it might be a CV or something off-balance...maybe it was the beginning of the TC messing up.

It is a little wet (like dry-wet) at the rear driveshaft where that huge 12-star nut is on the TC. I think the bearing is eating itself.

Still driving the car. Sounds like they would have to replace the whole unit, so messing it up more doesnt seem to be the end of the world.

Either way, still need to really get it checked out. Probably time to make some calls....not sure how fun it would be to do on jack stands, but if it were the least bit easy, I'd probably try.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 08:29 AM
  #54  
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Easy is not the way I would describe this procedure. I did it on jack stands and had the most trouble with removing the driveshaft nut, once that was done the rest was "easy" if you're an adventurous DIY'er. Mine was a MT so I'm not sure how much or if anything changes with yours being an AT.


 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 09:14 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by bro_hof
Easy is not the way I would describe this procedure. I did it on jack stands and had the most trouble with removing the driveshaft nut, once that was done the rest was "easy" if you're an adventurous DIY'er. Mine was a MT so I'm not sure how much or if anything changes with yours being an AT.

​​​​​​​If it stays driveable long enough I could get down to a lift + air tools. From the service PDF the AT might be easier as you dont have to "catch and drain transmission fluid". Other than that I would just have to see how to get the right CV off....have to undo the wheel axle nut and all that?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 09:30 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
If it stays driveable long enough I could get down to a lift + air tools. From the service PDF the AT might be easier as you dont have to "catch and drain transmission fluid". Other than that I would just have to see how to get the right CV off....have to undo the wheel axle nut and all that?
Yes, wheel, caliper, disc, axle nut, driveshaft nut, cv support, and cv all have to come off. Then you get your ring pliers out to get the TC shaft out so you can remove the whole TC assembly. Without removing the TC shaft you can't get the TC assembly to clear the transmission shaft. Basically everything from the tranny to the right will come off as the TC is smack dab in the middle of everything.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 09:52 AM
  #57  
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Gotcha. Good info. Time to somehow diagnose it completely. Another thread mentions pulling the ABS fuses to essentially make it FWD only...since my vibration and noise only happens under throttle...if pulling the fuses would cut any of said torque from going there maybe that is a start to isolating it.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 10:12 AM
  #58  
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pulling the fuse will not only disable the ABS, it will also disable the traction control and you 4X4. you will get few lights on the dash as a result. The noise is mechanical, I think. Start with flushing the TC and the rear diff...newtis.info has the how to. Also, call the dealer regarding the issue, they might replaced it under some warranty issue. I think BMW was effected with it too...give it a try
 
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 11:06 AM
  #59  
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2015 r60 s all4 65k bad transfer case also

I'm wondering about a class action suit, I'm just out of warranty , The wifes car she's had less than a year
 
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Old Oct 24, 2018 | 07:58 AM
  #60  
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Calling to schedule a diagnostic. Going to cost me $140 for that. I called MiniUSA after the dealer had trouble looking up the VIN.(comp problems).

They were super nice and said to call them back after diagnosing the problem...then they would "look into it". Certainly didnt say there would be nothing they could do ect ect as I thought they might. I'm not super hopeful but they were very nice and I guess I will take a chance and at the very least I hope to have a good proper diagnosis.

Keep y'all in the loop.

Adam
 
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Old Oct 24, 2018 | 08:37 AM
  #61  
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Transfercase

I also just got off the phone with mini USA and they want me to go have $180 diagnosis done on it when I pulled the fill plug to the transfer case it looks like silver peanut butter they're not willing to take my word for what's wrong and they can't guarantee that they're going to pay for anything in my opinion I see that this is a big enough problem to where it either warrants a recall or a class action lawsuit if anybody else in this forum or discussion is willing to come forward and join me in a class action lawsuit I'm ready to set it up right now this is b******* and I'm not going to take the corporate run around
 
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Old Oct 30, 2018 | 05:22 PM
  #62  
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My update.

So took it in for the diagnostic. They drove it, said they checked everything...wheel bearings, Xfer case....ect...Stethoscoped some stuff. All is fine. Said it had to be the tires.

I promptly went home and put on the spare snow tires on Drag Dr wheels I have laying around and took it for a 30 minute highway drive.

I will say it is a good bit improved but something is still there. My next idea is to get it in for alignment. Maybe its walking over itself or the like (to be fair, I have never had it aligned so it might never have been aligned since new (bought at 40K miles). I am dumbfounded if it actually was the tires....but they are OE runflats getting low on tread...one wheel might be bent too. Who-knows if maybe the pothole that tweaked the rim might have broken a belt in the tire(s) or something. Maybe its super soft non-runflat snow tires masking it further.

I will however, be changing the fluid in the transfer case just to see what is what. Hell if I know lol...but if they say it all looks good mechanically, I might get some sleep tonight!


EDIT 11/7/18 - Still havent really figured anything out. I have not driven it more but my wife says there is still something going on. Guess we will just keep on driving it until we can figure something out.
Did not drain the transfer case as there is no drain plug. Going to have to suck the old out / pump a bunch in to sort of flush it...eventually.
 

Last edited by iwashmycar; Nov 7, 2018 at 06:41 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2018 | 06:28 PM
  #63  
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Hope it all works out for you! Mine made noise for months and I continued to drive it until it started leaking at the output shaft from all the shrapnel in the case. It will let you know when it is having a problem in that way 😂
 
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Old Nov 14, 2018 | 06:18 PM
  #64  
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So its gotten a little worse. Now as low as 60mph under throttle it kind of sounds like a machine gun. th-th-th-th-th-th-th-. ...gets a little worse with a hard right swerve. Leading me to the driver side. Still ONLY under part throttle. Coasting all is well with no load on it.

I got in there again tonight to find a lot of play where the CV goes into the trans. I think it might be the CV. Being the inner part of it, it isnt as affected by turning, which usually clicks ect at low speer turns...however at high speeds supposedly a bad inner CV can show from what I gather. Took a little video.


Guess I will replace it and see. Probably the same pothole that took out the rim and coincidentally the wheel bearing I have replaced, I hope it isnt inside the trans in any way, but I figure if it were I'd be leaking some fluid.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2018 | 11:54 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
So its gotten a little worse. Now as low as 60mph under throttle it kind of sounds like a machine gun. th-th-th-th-th-th-th-. ...gets a little worse with a hard right swerve. Leading me to the driver side. Still ONLY under part throttle. Coasting all is well with no load on it.

I got in there again tonight to find a lot of play where the CV goes into the trans. I think it might be the CV. Being the inner part of it, it isnt as affected by turning, which usually clicks ect at low speer turns...however at high speeds supposedly a bad inner CV can show from what I gather. Took a little video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhtxbMW7E04

Guess I will replace it and see. Probably the same pothole that took out the rim and coincidentally the wheel bearing I have replaced, I hope it isnt inside the trans in any way, but I figure if it were I'd be leaking some fluid.

Woah, that's a lot of play. I'd bet that's where your noise is coming from. CV joint is the first thing I would replace.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2018 | 02:42 PM
  #66  
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Did it fix the problem?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2018 | 05:12 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Adderly Rodriguez
Did it fix the problem?
So, no matter what I couldnt get the CV tulip out of the transmission. Took it to one shop, who also couldnt get it out. I ended up globbing a pack of CV grease in it, and zip-tie'ing the boot on. After that it was smooth and good.....until the grease came out. I recently put more grease in, and added a real proper CV clamp. It was better, but not great.

I actually dropped it off this morning at a "better" shop, and while I am not very hopeful they will be able to get the thing out, we will see. Worst case, I have the used axle that I could maybe try and put onto the stuck tulip with a 3rd round of new grease just to see if its better.

I am worried, as even when just the tulip was stuck in the trans...there was that play. I am not sure just how much play that spline can have, so the problem could very well be inside the trans. I am patiently awaiting the bad news phone call later today :(

edit. THEY GOT IT CHANGED! Said it was about two hours of air chiseling and prying. .... and $280. Hope it lasts a while.

edit again. ******. Took it on a two hour road trip. Definitely still there but not quite as bad. It’s either the fact it’s a used axle or it’s just something else....maybe the trans. We have a few more multi-hour drives this trip so we’ll see. I’ll probably just have to rebuild it with new grease and see.
 

Last edited by iwashmycar; Dec 29, 2018 at 07:51 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 07:01 PM
  #68  
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You think mini would do a recall on the TC’s. We just bought a mcs all4 with 65,000 and I hope it doesn’t fail. I’m not hearing any of the noises y’all are. Looks to me they fail early on.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 07:56 AM
  #69  
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I know I mucked this thread up pretty good, but mine was the CVs. Far more likely problem to have in general. That said, I wouldnt worry too much. Overall seems rare-ish. I do plan to try and change the fluid best I can, since there is no drain plug on the TC.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 05:31 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
I do plan to try and change the fluid best I can, since there is no drain plug on the TC.
Doing the TC oil is a PITA. I had a lot of trouble getting a hose into the fill plug hole to get much fluid out. I got some but not a lot, I think I topped it off and will try again when the weather is considerably warmer. BavAuto sells an adapter that might help. It's not expensive so I think I'll get one before my next try. The rear diff is much easier.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 08:43 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by dmath
Doing the TC oil is a PITA. I had a lot of trouble getting a hose into the fill plug hole to get much fluid out. I got some but not a lot, I think I topped it off and will try again when the weather is considerably warmer. BavAuto sells an adapter that might help. It's not expensive so I think I'll get one before my next try. The rear diff is much easier.
This one? https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-adapter-b3300000
 
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Old Mar 9, 2019 | 09:11 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
That's it. Simple idea but looks like it would be effective.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2019 | 01:08 PM
  #73  
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Time for transfer case #2. First one didn't quite make it 20k. The second got me from there to 65k. Service rep said they found a gear tooth stuck to the magnetic drain plug!

The best part is that they swore it was rusty heat shields after I pressured them about it being a transfer case.

Nothing is a better advertisement for electric cars without gears than this. When's that electric VW bus come out again??
 
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 07:34 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by JDCmini
Premium Priced? All new cars are expensive too me. But I think premium priced in today's world is north of 40k.
I agree.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2020 | 05:39 PM
  #75  
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2013 R60 Transfer case MT

Can somebody help to find a transfer case. Im from Puerto Rico and havent been able to finde one. It is 2013 R60 All4 MT. I'll appreciate it.
 
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