So- to begin, I AM NOT A NEWB TO ANYTHING AUTOMOTIVE, however- I am new to the Mini, so I am curious about hearing feedback regarding sparkplug choices and how the mini responds to the OEM vs Colder on stock to "cleaned up" engines
WE ARE A TOYOTA family, long time owners, spent last 20 years building high HP Toyotas, recent is a 650hp IS300.
my typical spark plugchoice for certain rides (MR2) even in OEM form was a step colder due to where I lived (Albuquerque- HOT summers) and how hot the MR2 engine runs.

So- heres my question- On my wifes R56 we just got last month- Gorgeous 2007 w/ 75k miles, strong running, all OEM engine, I put a WMW hot side pipe on it and planning on putting a Torque Solutions diverter plate and a oil catch can and WMW turbo blanket (prolong turbo life)
I replaced the OEM spark plugs with OEM plugs- runs nice and smooth still, plugs looked pretty good still.

I am planning on my newly acquired R60 its first (for me) oil change and similar modifications- WMW pipe, TS plate and a WMW blanket and definately a catch can.
I currently live in Las vegas- so seriously hot summers
my question for you more experienced Mini peps out there is this:

does the mini engine run hot? So haa anyone experienced a benefit from the step colder plugs (especially in summer) of decreased hesitation from cylinder heat/better spark from better heat transfer from plug to head-

my concern is this- when summer comes around, will the mini engine respond better (even in a more OEM form with just the WMW pipe and blanket) with a colder plug?

any real world experiences with this plug choice dilemma would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hi there,
First the engines in the 07 R56 and R60 are different engines n14 vs N18. Your R60 does not need or will not benefit from an Oil catch can or diverter plate.

When we get tunes or increase boost the Mini's really like a colder plug. The NGK 1422's seem to be the plug of choice. I have both a 2012 and a 2016 R60. The 2012 has the Manic tune and runs up to 20 lbs of boost and has the colder plugs, the 1026 does not yet.

Also, as far as the turbo blanket, on the R56 they certainly help tp protect the scoop i'm not sure what you would benefit on an R60. Mine both run between 175 and 210 all year round depending on outside temp, sport mode etc. I don't live in Vegas so maybe someone living in a hot climate would answer better.

One last thing, The Mini's seem to go thru coil packs more than Other cars Ive owned. Maybe due to the fact they are inside the cylinder head or not far from the turbo. They are relatively cheap and very easy to replace. I replaced my first set at 70k on my 2012.

Hope that helps a bit.

 

firstly- i thank you for your information and input, greatly appreciated. the little "bugs" and quirks these cars have seem pretty reasonable and easy to handle but oddly funny at the same tie.

I must, however, open a discussion with you regarding the OCC- near every turbo vehicle (in my opinion and experience) benefits from an OCC and from initial inspection on this R60 it looks as though it would resume the same here. There is what appears to be a sensor at the vent tube connection at the induction tube. there is a, not alarming, but fair, amount of oil dirt build up coating this area. while i havent taken off the hoses connected to the turbo or intercooler yet to inspect for oil build up, i can only assume there will be- this would be much better to be routed through a properly baffled catch can in my opinion and save the valves- correct?
i installed a wmw resonator delete pipe on the R56, there was zero oil build up in the turbo or intercooler, which was surprising, somewhat curious though- almost wondering if the vent valve is stuck closed?????? there does seem to be an amount of oil "coating" on the valve cover itself originating from the hose connection there on the drivers side for the PCV

as for the diverter valve, could you explain your reasoning behind "not using"? I am as well under the opinion that any time you can control built up back pressure on the turbo compressor during shift change of throttle release, the better it is for the life of the turbo. my concern here would be though the safety of the components surrounding the diverter valve location. deterioration due to heat and possible oil filled air fumes being released onto the surrounding area. I already have to replace a thin hose that is located near the valve on the R56- looks like some sort of vacuum hose but is very oil coated and soaked, it isnt staying on the nipple it should be, used a zip tie for the time being until i get a pressure clamp and new hose.
anyways- my position on built boos pressure is it needs a place to go when the throttle is closed- and for the safety of the turbo, the atmosphere is that safe location. I understand why manufacturers do not put catch cans and atmospheric blow off valves, is there a more specific reason you dont? as I dont knnow what little quirks these cars have, real world experience which retorts would be great.

I am not planning on increasing boost or any modifications more than the WMW resonator delete pipe and a turbo blanket (blanket is mainly for heat control and turbo longevity)
I noticed on the R56 that once installing the resonator delete the off throttle was smoothed out greatly- as well as the boost build which is exactly what it should have done.

thank you again for the input, the R60 only has 47500 miles, so i think Ill wait until i get more info on the heat compatibility as to extreme hot weather functioning and whether a colder plugs help during such times.
sucks though because its only for like 2 months, then its back to nice cool temps----80-90 lol

 

Good Morning,

What I can say regarding the OCC is that I have 2 CM's. One with 80k and one with 19k. I haven't had one issue with performance, mileage etc with either without an OCC. The 2012 does have a Manic tune also. In my opinion as long as you keep the oil clean, not the 12.5k Mini recommends but 5-7k intervals and use a top tier fuel I don't think its needed. There are many opinions and threads on both subject you can search and read.

For the diverter valve, if its a manual shift and your a driver that likes to keep the Rev's high maybe. Both of mine are auto and I see no benefit even with the tune. Again do a search most believe the only benefit is noise as it vents.

 

appreciate that,
I use only Castrol and i typically change at 4k mile mark.

do either of your Countryman have oil build up around the induction tube grommet connection for the PCV tube?

 

4k may be a bit early. Mini was using Castrol as OEM until last year in the USA, now they are using Pennzoil Ultra. I tend to use liquid Moly.

I have checked both the PCV hose's and also put a camera into the hot and cold side of the turbo's and haven't found any build up or burnt oil residue. There was an issue on the N14 engine in the 07 thru 09 R56's with a buildup on the intake valves that required cleaning every 30-50k. That's been addressed and fixed on the N18 motors.

Ive owned 5 Mini's. 06 Supercharged, 09 non S, 12 R56, 12 All4S and the 16 ALL4s. I am an Avid techincal reader being an engineer so normally I need proof of change or issues.

 

Just a few comments, MINIs run hot, around 230F, this is for emissions. If you turn the air conditioning on the thermostat open up and reduce the water temperature.

The diverter valve has a rubber diaphragm that can tear, Mine has been trouble free, so I haven't put an aftermarket one on it, they are operated via a signal from the engine control unit, I would think it is important to retain that, whatever brand of aftermarket diverter valve is installed.

The N14 engines have a problem with carbon build up on the backs of the intake valves because they are direct injected and there is no fuel present to wash the oil from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system off of the backs of the valves. It just burns and cokes up the intake ports. Requiring a carbon cleaning about every 50,000 miles. The PCV line from the back of the head cover to the throttle body is the path oil vapors take to to get to the intake ports. If you block off that line, crank case gases will still be vented through the driver's side PCV line to the turbocharger inlet, this is where an oil catch can should be installed. I blocked off the rear PCV line with a BSH dual boost tap and I installed a BSH oil catch can on the turbo side PCV line.

https://bshspeedshop.com/product/bsh...ual-boost-tap/

https://bshspeedshop.com/product/bsh...ion-catch-can/

Some people who have done this report increased oil consumption, this is due to a faulty PCV valve in the head cover, the valve to the turbo PCV line doesn't open and causes over pressure in the crankcase causing oil to leak out at the seals.

MINIs PCV valves are integral to the head cover and the whole head cover must be replaced to fix the PCV valves.

The "sensor" on the PCV line to the turbocharger inlet is a heater to prevent ice build up at the turbo inlet.

 

thanks dave; that was great info.

im thinking of one of the adapter plates- keeps the OEM valve but allows a majority of pressure to be vented, thus helping decrease pressur eon the tubo compressor during off throttle.

The oil catch I am still thining im going to do- removed the hot pipe the other day on my countryman and found some oil at the intercooler entrance.

my wifes R56 has oil residue on the vavle cover originating from where the vent tube connects to the cover.

I think I will begin by doing the turbo blanket on the r56, catch cans on both and probably will run OEM plugs still in both-