I have the 2+ intake, downpipe, exhaust, intercooler, meth and a few others mods.

 

Nice to have meth can run stage2+
My dealer shop don't have the skill to install meth system....

 

Finally fix my problem changed the last parts from QS to NM Catback.
Now quiet and smooth again ^_^
Asked Manic also change Map cant help this case, need remap again....
I will wait for my E45HP Turbo and remap again.

 

Meth is the best. It adds octane, fuel, cooling, and it's dirt cheap. Most people at first are very reluctant about adding Meth, but they eventually love it.

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

I know Meth is cheap and good, but which brand of Meth most people use? Any kit set ?

 

I've been doing lots of research on this topic, and am talking with Jeff at howerton engineering. I'm looking at the Aquamist HFS4, it's pricey though. Looking at about $900 for the kit, but also need to get a tank. The tank they offer that would work best with my countryman is $550. I'm not sure how expensive the install is going to be, but I'm going to easily be in it 2k. I looked at snowperformance kits, but they seem to be subpar compared to the Aquamist. I'd rather spend a couple hundred dollars on a kit, versus 10k on an engine because I tried to cut corners.

 

There are lots of great kits, but the one I use is Aquamist HFS-3 and HFS-4. It's a complete system, plug and play and tailored for our cars. For meth I use VP M1, I use it 100% with out mix distilled water with it

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

With the St 2 tune it will remove the fault code in the car's system right? Like due to high flow cat/catless downpipe

 

Yes, i have a catless with stage 2 and no cel

 

I want to know if you scan yr car if there the fault codes like cat deficiency is gone after the St 2 tune. Why i ask is i hv CEL then it just disappear after few hundred miles, but when scanned, the fault code was stored and showing. I want to make sure the tune will remove both CEL and the fault codes.

 

I use Renegade 99.99% methanol:

http://www.renegaderacefuel.com

I use them because there is a dealer that is a few miles from my work.

 

I was the test car for Jeff at Howerton. The tank is from the CTS and was adapted for the CM. The install is not hard to do yourself and they provide very detailed instructions specifically for the mini.

 

 

Here's a price comparison for meth systems:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum/compare-4.pdf

 

Sorry jumping into the R60 group but I have a similar question here

My is a R58 JCW (N14 engine), Here are my Mods:
Quicksilver catback Exhaust
Wagner Intercooler
NM charge and discharge pipe
4-Pod standard JCW breaks
KN panel filter
KW v2 suspension

Can I upgrade to stage 2? I don't have the blow off Valve and I don't plan to have one since my local authority doesn't like that. Should I go for Stage 1+ (if any) instead? How much could I gain? Thank you for your kindly help

 

I don't think the upgraded BOV is required, but I think a downpipe is for the stage 2 or 2+. You would also want to get 1 stage colder plugs, like evo plugs. Stage 2+ you'll be pushing an extra 6 psi or so in map B, with better power curve and timing, so you're looking at a BIG jump in power. If you want you could get the stage 1 on a completely stock setup, so it would work on what you have now. You'd get an extra maybe 30 hp from that.

 

If he's pushing more boost then stock he needs an upgraded diverter valve afaik.

 

If he's pushing more boost than stock it's a good idea, but I was going off of Manic's recommendations for their stages. You probably should upgrade your diverter valve, but it's not required. I think he said he's running the N14 engine? He could do with the alta spring upgrade if that's the case and be fine.

 

Fine for a short while until that diaphragm rips and there's no boost at all. Do it right and upgrade the DV and forget about it, you don't want that sitting in the back of your head.

 

The problem of changing my Valve is that the police here will pull you over if they hear that noise, however exhaust and intake won't (unless you floor the pedal while in neutral in front of them)

 

There are a few different DV and BOV's out there, some louder than offers. I personally prefer the latest OEM DV with a $17 Alta spring installed. Most of my "whooshing sound" comes from the after market open air intake. My exhaust can both be, modest and aggressive and sometimes even throwing a flame or two out the back.

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

May I ask what does alta spring upgrade do to my valve? Thank you

 

I guess I will try the Stage 1 Plus instead, do you think my mod will benefit from Stage 1 plus tune as well? Thank you

 

The Alta spring holds boost more efficiently, and can handle the extra stress that the Manic Tune will cause on the stock spring due to pushing 17psi and upwards pending your Tune pkg. stock MINI should be pushing about 12psi and 14ish on over boost. stage 1 is already tuned to 17psi as I remember.

I have had the Alta spring since Last sep when I installed my Manic Stage II plus. I'm also still running my stock DV that's been in my R56 since Build Date of Apr. 2013. I'm not going to claim it extends the life of your DV, but I do believe if it ain't broke don't fix it. But, when it does fork out another $69 for the new DV and enjoy another couple years of added boost.

Note: if your diaphragm tears, your MINI will go into LIMP mode, protecting your motor from possible further damage.

 

Yes. From reading multiple customer reviews Manic Stage 1 pushes harder and smoother than the JB+, which was making good power for us. However we HP/Mod junkies always want more. JB did not have high enough demand to develop a JB4 for our platform. So, when Manic stepped up and offered almost 6 levels of tuning and multiple maps within those levels, to include switching Maps on the fly... You catch my drift right? LOL.

BLUF : get it you will not regret it!!!