Hi all guys, I have a problem with my mini roadster cooper s n18.
I recently rebuilt the engine due to a bent connecting rod, but the problem I am telling you now has remained. When the car is cold, the car emits a very noticeable clicking sound, the car vibrates at idle, and I have noticed that in this situation the turbo pressure gauge which normally should indicate a value similar to zero, indicates a negative pressure value. which almost reaches full scale, after a few seconds if I hit the accelerator everything stabilizes, the ticking stops, and the turbo indicator stabilizes at a normal value.
In gear, both with a warm engine and with a cold engine, the car is fine with a partial accelerator, while if I accelerate the car to the maximum it clearly saw and you hear metallic noises coming from the engine. With a constant accelerator, on the other hand, it emits a sound similar to a car running on three cylinders.
We cannot find the problem, no errors appear in the diagnosis, in the reconstruction all components have been replaced, high pressure pump, pistons, connecting rods, valves, spark plugs, ignition coils, turbocharger, valves, complete distribution of the two vanos pinions, actuators vanos.
The absurd thing that the car had this problem before it was rebuilt, and the problem remains even now.
I hope for your help as we are in a dark tunnel.

 

Sorry to hear. I have the feeling your already beyond what most can do...
A few things that comes to mind:
Is your turbo wastegate properly calibrated. Maybe you have a built in pressure though usually that would show up more when turbo kicks in.
An other thing you could check is the variable timing mechanism.

I'm no experts here.

I hope you find your problem. It sucks one life out of you when one work hard and end up in the same plus...

 

Valvetronic is secondary throttle control during warm up. Expect to see some depression of MAP until transition to Valvetronic as primary throttle control occurs.

What happened to bend a con rod?

Results of a compression / leak-down test are?

 

question is not unique to ROADTSER .... repost in general "GEN2" areas .. .

 

I have this problem on my 2014 Mini Cooper S R59 n18 engine.
as you press the gas pedal down it starts to cut off and miss and as you let off it goes back to running smooth again.
if you ease onto the gas pedal it will take off down the road with get up go. But if you push half way down or more it will cut out and start missing and trying to stop running. But as long as you keep only pushing 1/4 way down all is ok.
thanks for any ideas to help fixed this.

 

My R59 has giving me a fit. New just about everthing in the last four months. You name it I change it,,just could not find any used R59; to try computer parts.
so today I have my wife trying to start it. All this time it would hit a could time and stop.
it was killing me as why not keep. Xtool 9 scanner could not find it,,maybe it me not know how to look for stuff on it. So a friend had come with his high dollar scanner and nothing show up on his either and he works on high dollars cars.
so if this ever happen to you on you Mini Cooper S R59,
start and hits a couple of time and stops.
do this,,,,,,take and unplug one coil wire at a time to find out which one is killing the other s. If you find a bad one then you motor should start and run on three cylinders. Just replace the bad one and you will be fit right up.
hope this will help others with this kind of problem.

 

Merry Christmas! New guy here with a major issue on my 2014 Roadster S. Engine overheated (no idiot lights-long story), either warped or cracked head. Freeze plug popped out and coolant now flows directly into oil pan. Mechanic believes I need a new engine-but not certain. Been attempting to track one down and also find someone who may have more experience. Any and all input/experience or suggestions will be appreciated.

 

You might need to deck the block or skim the head but there's no way of knowing without pulling the head and checking to see if they are still true. if so you're in great shape. Reinstall the freeze plug and rock on. If only the head needs skimming you're still in pretty good shape as you can take it to head shop and get the top end refreshed and skimmed for $500-800. Re-assemble with a head gasket that's 0.039" plus whatever they skimmed off and roll on down the road. Things start getting a bit more expensive after that.