R58 Tell me about oil catch cans
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Ontario
Tell me about oil catch cans
I've read a bunch of stuff about oil catch cans - are these a necessity on the N18? I don't like the thoughts of having to do a walnut cleaning periodically.
So my questions are:
So my questions are:
1) Is an occ still a strong recommendation?
2) Is there a particular brand that seems to work/fit better than others?
3) Without occ, how often is a walnut blast required?
TIA
2) Is there a particular brand that seems to work/fit better than others?
3) Without occ, how often is a walnut blast required?
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From: WNY
Reading through the Thread.. I believe you need a Walnut blast done on an N18 engine every 50,000 miles ....
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Ontario
Thanks - With or without OCC? I got lost in the details. I'm no mechanic.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,561
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From: Cali
As much as anything to keep IVD’s to a minimum .. oil selection. Is tantamount to a clean intake tract .
in particular ... an oil that has low volatility and will vaporize to a lesser degree To get swept up on the POV system to start with A part of the puzzle.
Look for anything that has a NOAC number of less than 7 IMO ... and stay away from ‘0W’ or 5W-20 oils unless you live in the arctic or sub zero conditions.
Im running full synth Redline 5w-30 for these reasons now. NOACK of 6.
Factory MINI oils, most diesel oils, 0w oils, have NOACK numbers over 10. In a high quality lubricant ... like these and some others.. I’m not concerned if they didn’t pay BMW for their ‘LL’ certIndicating unless I’m worried about warranty compliance (warranty doesn’t cover IVD’s In most cases BTW
)
Occasional (every 20k mile) GDI cleaning services like the BG-Chemicals one ... are easy and not expensive ways to keep the system cleaner.
Once ‘coked’ up with heavy/hardened IVD’s ... blasting seems to be the the only way to clean them ... and really should be directly followed up with a chemical cleaning regimen as a ‘mop up’ to clean the valve seat lands that aren’t touched by the blasting.
on the N18’s ... I don’t think an OCC is necessary if you use oil with low volatility... and your motor does not have abnormal blow-by. I can’t think of a situation where an OCC would ‘hurt’ though.... but many designs will not catch lighter vapors
my 2¢
.
in particular ... an oil that has low volatility and will vaporize to a lesser degree To get swept up on the POV system to start with A part of the puzzle.
Look for anything that has a NOAC number of less than 7 IMO ... and stay away from ‘0W’ or 5W-20 oils unless you live in the arctic or sub zero conditions.
Im running full synth Redline 5w-30 for these reasons now. NOACK of 6.
Factory MINI oils, most diesel oils, 0w oils, have NOACK numbers over 10. In a high quality lubricant ... like these and some others.. I’m not concerned if they didn’t pay BMW for their ‘LL’ certIndicating unless I’m worried about warranty compliance (warranty doesn’t cover IVD’s In most cases BTW
)Occasional (every 20k mile) GDI cleaning services like the BG-Chemicals one ... are easy and not expensive ways to keep the system cleaner.
Once ‘coked’ up with heavy/hardened IVD’s ... blasting seems to be the the only way to clean them ... and really should be directly followed up with a chemical cleaning regimen as a ‘mop up’ to clean the valve seat lands that aren’t touched by the blasting.
on the N18’s ... I don’t think an OCC is necessary if you use oil with low volatility... and your motor does not have abnormal blow-by. I can’t think of a situation where an OCC would ‘hurt’ though.... but many designs will not catch lighter vapors
my 2¢
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; Apr 16, 2021 at 01:25 PM.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Ontario
^ Interesting, thank you. I'm fascinated by this NOACK rating. Here's a thread from a couple of years ago. Apparently Amsoil does everything but bring you coffee in the morning.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,561
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From: Cali
My take ... IMO...
The quest for oil info is a deep dark rabbit hole filled with personal biases, misinformation, too much tech for people to digest well
Much of it you don’t really need to understand though as long as it is a top quality product from a reputable MFG.
Low NOACK numbers are a simple way to say that the oils don’t loose much to evaporation (aka ‘boil-off’) ... and thus don’t get suspended in the PCV stream being sucked back into the engine... causing IVD’s, coting of intake tracts with oil residue, dirty piston crowns ... and more oil consumption.
One other thing to remember ... as Thad oil ‘boils-off’ ... it changes the properties of the oil... and it’s abilities to act as a good lubricant over time... a poor but pointed analogy is should that has cooked too long becomes ‘stew’
Yes, the engines MUST have good lubrication... AND ... GDI’s must have oil that works WITH not against the design (low evaporate losses)
Amsoil has their Signature-Series Synth 5w-30 AKA, ‘ASL’) at 6.7% NOACK ... and their European formula (AEL) at 7.1%
Redline has their High-performance Synthetic and European-formula 5w-30 both at 6.0% ... so I’d say they are comparable... I’d run either actually ...I get the best price on the Redline.
I can do an oil change with filter and a can of gas treatment for less than $100 ... but I’d be hard pressed to find a shop do it with these oils and OEM filter for that price ... most shops only use ‘their’ oil (good margins) and will argue that it’s the best ... and tell you that you should not believe what you read on the ‘interweb’
Ive only met one mechanic that actually knows what ‘NOACK’ numbers are... much less what the numbers are on the oil they are using ... they usually default to saying ‘This oil we use meets the tough BMW LL01/04 standard 😬
both are NOt BMW LL01/04 certified.. but both ARE engineered to meet AND exceed this spec... I would assume that don’t want to pay BMW the big bux for their ‘blessing’
I read somewhere that the factory Mini/BMW 5w-30 oil is at around 12% NOACK .
BTW... IVD = Intake Valve Deposit
Good piece on NOACK and volatility.
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/aut...ts-volatility/
.
The quest for oil info is a deep dark rabbit hole filled with personal biases, misinformation, too much tech for people to digest well
Much of it you don’t really need to understand though as long as it is a top quality product from a reputable MFG.
Low NOACK numbers are a simple way to say that the oils don’t loose much to evaporation (aka ‘boil-off’) ... and thus don’t get suspended in the PCV stream being sucked back into the engine... causing IVD’s, coting of intake tracts with oil residue, dirty piston crowns ... and more oil consumption.
One other thing to remember ... as Thad oil ‘boils-off’ ... it changes the properties of the oil... and it’s abilities to act as a good lubricant over time... a poor but pointed analogy is should that has cooked too long becomes ‘stew’
Yes, the engines MUST have good lubrication... AND ... GDI’s must have oil that works WITH not against the design (low evaporate losses)
Amsoil has their Signature-Series Synth 5w-30 AKA, ‘ASL’) at 6.7% NOACK ... and their European formula (AEL) at 7.1%
Redline has their High-performance Synthetic and European-formula 5w-30 both at 6.0% ... so I’d say they are comparable... I’d run either actually ...I get the best price on the Redline.
I can do an oil change with filter and a can of gas treatment for less than $100 ... but I’d be hard pressed to find a shop do it with these oils and OEM filter for that price ... most shops only use ‘their’ oil (good margins) and will argue that it’s the best ... and tell you that you should not believe what you read on the ‘interweb’
Ive only met one mechanic that actually knows what ‘NOACK’ numbers are... much less what the numbers are on the oil they are using ... they usually default to saying ‘This oil we use meets the tough BMW LL01/04 standard 😬
both are NOt BMW LL01/04 certified.. but both ARE engineered to meet AND exceed this spec... I would assume that don’t want to pay BMW the big bux for their ‘blessing’
I read somewhere that the factory Mini/BMW 5w-30 oil is at around 12% NOACK .
BTW... IVD = Intake Valve Deposit
Good piece on NOACK and volatility.
https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/aut...ts-volatility/
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; Apr 16, 2021 at 02:13 PM.
My take ... IMO...
The quest for oil info is a deep dark rabbit hole filled with personal biases, misinformation, too much tech for people to digest well
Much of it you don’t really need to understand though as long as it is a top quality product from a reputable MFG.
Low NOACK numbers are a simple way to say that the oils don’t loose much to evaporation (aka ‘boil-off’) ... and thus don’t get suspended in the PCV stream being sucked back into the engine... causing IVD’s, coting of intake tracts with oil residue, dirty piston crowns ... and more oil consumption.
Yes, the engines MUST have good lubrication... AND ... GDI’s must have oil that works WITH not against the design (low evaporate losses)
Amsoil has their Signature-Series Synth 5w-30 AKA, ‘ASL’) at 6.7% NOACK ... and their European formula (AEL) at 7.1%
Redline has their synth 5w-30 at 6.0% ... so I’d say they are comparable... I’d run either actually and o get the best price on the Redline.
both are NOt BMW LL01/04 certified.. but both ARE engineered to meet AND exceed this spec... I would assume that don’t want to pay BMW the big bux for their ‘blessing’
I read somewhere that the factory Mini/BMW 5w-30 oil is at around 12% NOACK .
BTW... IVD = Intake Valve Deposit
.
The quest for oil info is a deep dark rabbit hole filled with personal biases, misinformation, too much tech for people to digest well
Much of it you don’t really need to understand though as long as it is a top quality product from a reputable MFG.
Low NOACK numbers are a simple way to say that the oils don’t loose much to evaporation (aka ‘boil-off’) ... and thus don’t get suspended in the PCV stream being sucked back into the engine... causing IVD’s, coting of intake tracts with oil residue, dirty piston crowns ... and more oil consumption.
Yes, the engines MUST have good lubrication... AND ... GDI’s must have oil that works WITH not against the design (low evaporate losses)
Amsoil has their Signature-Series Synth 5w-30 AKA, ‘ASL’) at 6.7% NOACK ... and their European formula (AEL) at 7.1%
Redline has their synth 5w-30 at 6.0% ... so I’d say they are comparable... I’d run either actually and o get the best price on the Redline.
both are NOt BMW LL01/04 certified.. but both ARE engineered to meet AND exceed this spec... I would assume that don’t want to pay BMW the big bux for their ‘blessing’
I read somewhere that the factory Mini/BMW 5w-30 oil is at around 12% NOACK .
BTW... IVD = Intake Valve Deposit
.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 331
From: Cali
I CERTAINLY will not tell another enthusiast what THEY should run ... that is too hot of a topic on ANY enthusiast forum/group .
just what I run and my reasons for running it in my car...
I’d run either of those two brands of oils in my own GDI cars.
I’d lean towards the Redline for reasons of cost in my area.... and I like to stay consistent as much as possible with what I use in each car.
I change my oil every 5000-miles or 1 year ... whichever comes first...
good ‘insurance‘ for the money...
.
just what I run and my reasons for running it in my car...
I’d run either of those two brands of oils in my own GDI cars.
I’d lean towards the Redline for reasons of cost in my area.... and I like to stay consistent as much as possible with what I use in each car.
I change my oil every 5000-miles or 1 year ... whichever comes first...
good ‘insurance‘ for the money...
.
Drive the damn thing!
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 331
From: Cali
Which one??
MAARP....
How many miles on your car ?
What oil has been used in the past? [weight/brand/type]
What were the oil change intervals?
Has your intake system been cleaned and/or valves been blasted?
.
.
MAARP....
How many miles on your car ?
What oil has been used in the past? [weight/brand/type]
What were the oil change intervals?
Has your intake system been cleaned and/or valves been blasted?
.
.
Last edited by mountainhorse; Apr 16, 2021 at 06:40 PM.
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2nd Gear
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From: Ontario
It just rolled over 90K km (~55K miles). The PO was changing every 12K km (7K miles) using Castrol full synthetic, 5W30. I don't think it has been blasted - he gave me the service records and there is no mention of that.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 331
From: Cali
With that low of mileage... and you have an N18... I'd bet you have minimal deposits...
I would go with a good chemical clean (professional service) though for good measure and start using an oil with outstanding NOACK numbers... And I'll bet you're good for triple that mileage.
.
I would go with a good chemical clean (professional service) though for good measure and start using an oil with outstanding NOACK numbers... And I'll bet you're good for triple that mileage.
.
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 7,504
Likes: 2,480
From: WNY
I buy the 5 quart jugs and dump the whole thing in. Puts the level just above the high mark, which hasn't given me any issue.
4.4 quarts
Engine Oil
4.4 quarts. . (with filter)After refill check oil level.
2013 Mini COOPER (1.6L 4 -cyl Engine Code N18B16C N ...
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