Hello new member here and I have been looking at r58’s for a while now and I was wondering how do you tell a factory jcw from a mini coupe with a jcw package with the aero kit ? When ever I look up a jcw vin on myminivin.com it sometimes pops up as n18 or n14 for the engine code.

I am only asking because I know I am going to want to mod the car for more power and. I have been reading other build threads and forums post that the jcw is a better platform to start out on engine wise.

 

That website will identify if the car is factory JCW, e.g. it would show "JOHN COOPER WORKS (USA)" and "R58(JCW)". N14 is the 2007-2010 engine, N18 is 2011-2014 engine. Both engines were available in JCW versions. The newer engine is more reliable.

 

The JCW cars had an N14 through 2012. The rest switched to N18 in 2010. One of my Minis is a 2012 R58 JCW with the N14 engine.

I use myminivin.com whenever I am looking at a Mini to buy.

If you are going to do a lot of mods you may want to consider a 05 or 06 R53. They are easy to mod and the bottom end is very strong. Not to take away from the Gen2 cars.

I have both an R53 and an R58. I love them both they are vary different animals.

 

The bottom end, meaning at low rpm? I find Gen1 to have low torque at lower rpms.

 

He means the lower part of the engine; internals, etc.
I agree with MCS02, I have both and they are two different cars. With that said, if you were to get a 2nd gen, an engine rebuild is not a death sentence. They can be rebuilt for less than you think. If you can find a reputable place to do it. Then, the bottom end of the engine will be just as tough.

Edit: to answer the OP, the only diff between the N14 MCS engine and the JCW N14 engine is the pistons and head gasket. Everything else, best I understand it, is the same.

 

A member posted this some time ago:


Originally Posted by -=gRay rAvEn=-
Actually the internals of a Factory JCW are not the same as a regular S....the engine has whole different part number as well. Yes, JCW Tuning after sales kits and those installed at the Depot do have the newer manifold...see below:

Engine


More aggressive ECU tuning

Turbo back exhaust system. The exhaust and catalytic converter have been reworked and enlarged to aid the unrestricted flow and reduction in back pressure. Also NO second cat.


Upgraded turbocharger - larger and strengthened twin-scroll turbocharger and exhaust manifold resulting in a pressure increase from 0.9 to 1.3 bar

Upgraded pistons


Upgraded Getrag transmission


Upgraded clutch and throwout bearing


208hp



Upgraded engine components: The engine is fitted with reinforced and specifically ground pistons as well as a cylinder head with optimized rigidity and modified gasket. The cylinder head wall thickness is increased to reduce potential stress during peak output. The intake valves and valve seat rings are also made of a specially resilient material, and compared to the engine of the MINI Cooper S there is a slight reduction in compression. The air filter, air mass sensor, exhaust system and catalytic converter have been modified so as to achieve a power-enhancing de-throttling on the induction and exhaust side. The through-flow capacity of the clean air duct to the turbocharger has also been increased.


End of quote.


To conclude, you better start with the real factory JCW engine and go with the N18 engine for better reliability.

 

For me the easiest way to tell a factory JCW from a MCS with the tuning kit is the factory will have the Brembo brake kit. Hardly anyone does the bigbrake kit after then get an MCS, but the factory cars come with it. And I added a stage 1 ECU tune to my JCW 6 months ago and the car went from really powerful to "look the hell out before you step on it". Big difference for only $500.

 

I would add this is the most obvious feature at first look and the rotors are a lot bigger.


From the inside, a factory JCW has a red stitched steering wheel with the JCW logo and also red stitched seats, shift and handbrake boots, The shift **** cap is also red unless it has the OEM carbon fiber upgrade.

 

Something else I didn’t see mentioned above is that the JCW block has thicker webbing around the mains to provide additional stability to the crank. Not a problem as the MCS block can handle 400bhp, but it’s nice to know it’s there in case you ever need it.

 

Thank you for all the replies they have cleared up a lot. I was also wondering about the automatic trans and it being able to hold power i may need to get an auto for family members to be able to drive it every once in a while other wise i'm looking for a manual.

 

If seen the auto take close to 300hp with no issues. Stage 3 meth injection with 9.5:1 pistons and a ported and polished head. The issue is traction and torque steer once you ramp the power as there is no LSD for the Aisin transmission. The other issue with the auto is your limited to 6500 RPM since as yet no one has developed a method for reprogramming it’s shift points.

 

I strongly recommend you buy a manual which is far better suited to the car's character and overall dynamics of the chassis and drivetrain.


This is furthermore true if you think about mods in the future.


A few years ago, I drove an automatic for a few days and was disappointed because I had the feeling it was racing the engine all the time through the gears and the shifting was not really smooth for performance driving.

 

+1 for a manual MINI.

 

I believe that the automatic was only available in 2013 JCWs, earlier years were manual only.

Have fun,
Mike

 

Yea, I am trying to remember but the automatics came in about that time. Opened up the door for some people. But you cannot beat having the stick in the JCW.

 

I had manual MCS 7 yrs now auto JCW 3.5 yrs. The auto is pretty good with the paddle shifters. Unlike the F56 my car stays in 4th and 5th gears longer. Don't need to downshift it much. Wife doesn't drive clutch so compromise. She loves driving it didn't get to drive the 2007 once lol.

 

LOL...... the wife excuse is not a big argument to go with an automatic. Learning to drive a stick shift on a so small car is not rocket science and it rocks far better.

 

Lol. Nah, your missing missing the point chief. The reason to have a manual is to KEEP the wife from driving the car. Worked for me anyway

 

I drove the stick MCS for 7 years. Seeing as how this is my only car the AT is more easily appreciated. And I never had paddle shifters before, I just downshift and the ECU tune makes the exhaust pop and burble up the wazoo!

 

I am not so lucky ......... my wife like manual LOL.