I have a login for it, I have never really been good at using it tho. I'll check again hopefully ill figure it out. Also do any of the parts im torquing need to be done under pressure?

 

ill grab one hope it doesnt take super long to arrive.

 

Torque all suspension replaced parts with the car in neutral suspension travel.

 

Tunershop? Germany to me in California in 3 days!!

 

Im sorry I don't know what neutral suspension travel means. Im more of a youtube mechanic, I follow directions quite well.

 

Thats not bad at all, ill wait then. The last thing i need to do is tighten up the rear lower camber a shop told me it was loose

 

The angles at which the suspension components would be if sitting on wheels.

 

Would this be for the subframe also or just things like the sway bar and control arm?

 

Also, if im changing the sway bar bushings do i need circolight? If yes is there a substitute I should be able to find locally?

 

This stuff is pretty much the same as provided by all the poly bushing manufacturers:


Also, if you are replacing the bushings with poly versions, they should move well enough that you shouldn't need to torque the suspension under load.

 

Using this pic as an example would bolt # 12 be done under done under load while say bolt # 8 and 14 dont need to be under load? What about bolts 11

Thx

 

#8 is a ball joint, load or no load won’t matter. It will be easier to line up without load, then torque it down. Same with #14 and 15. #11 will be MUCH easier with the subframe removed from the car. #12 is a hard frame mount, so also better done with no load.

Now that I’m looking at it, there really are no bolts that need to be torqued under load in the front.

 

Are these the torque settings for the subframe itself?

​​​​​​Front subframe

Front Bolts 100nm (74lb) 2 front
Rear Bolts 100nm (74lb) 6 rear
Control Arm 59nm (44lb) +90 degree turn 2 sides?