Ive been looking at videos on how to change out the rear brake pads on my r57 and every time i see the boots they seem to be rolling back in on themselves as you spin them fluidly like the front caliper but mine when i turn them twist and like when youre wringing out a towel. Which stops me from making it flush anyone know what would cause this and how would i fix it?


Thx

 

Stretch the boot a little bit, and spray some WD40 into the contact groove. That should give it a little bit lubrication to slip when turning the piston.

 

Should i Extend the piston out then do this or do it in its present semi-compressed position.

 

The more you twist the piston around, the more the boot will twist also. Just spray it in the current position, and work the piston back and forth until the boot slips nicely.

 

Gotcha, I was able to do one pretty quickly the other im still working on. Thx for your assistance.

 

I am probably going to need to replace my book within the next few thousand miles.
I had this same issue and just got fed up with it late at night and I think the boot ended up between my piston and pad because of the twisting issue.

I saw another post about someone buying replacement boots on ECW (or somewhere) and that they were easy to replace just pop off and back on with lube

 

Let me know how it goes as i may have to do it also in the future myself.

 

Brake lubricant such as Sil-Glyde will have better lubricant and ant-corrosion properties than WD-40. Get it any auto parts store.

Recommend rebuilding the caliper if the boot is seized to the piston.

Not that hard to do unless you have very minimalistic tech skills, videos on YouTube should keep you on the path of tech righteousness.

Mini calipers (especially the rear) seem prone to corrosion. Both the groove for piston seal and the boot can get partially plugged with corrosion. Boot groove in the piston will get rusty and will torque the boot as the piston is pushed/rotated back into the caliper for new pads.

Doubt if there is enough clearance between the piston and caliper wall to install a new boot without removing the piston.

Make sure you apply a thin film of Sil-Glyde to the piston seal to prevent seal/piston seizing over time. Do the same to the both boot grooves and lips.

Unless you have a garage queen, most cars benefit from a caliper rebuild at least every five years.

Caliper boot/seal kits are readily available.

I believe that all years of Gen 2(R56) MCS (not JCW) will use Raybestos WK3321 (rears) and WK2020 (fronts) @ a cost of around $10 per axle. Kits are available from many other suppliers as well.

 

I could not get the new boot in without removing the piston so i just had my friend press the brake until it booped out. I then slid the new boot ($5 for rebuild kit WK3321 was correct) on the piston and into the groove and screwed it back in.

I was mad and in a hurry so i think i did end up ripping it in one spot where I tried to put it on without removing the piston (seems BARELY possible for a patient person) so I ordered another one for when I'm replacing the sway bar later this year.

Thanks farside!