I just picked up 2011 mini cooper s automatic transmission with 77.5k miles. The previous owner was 70 yrs old grandma and she always had a service at mini dealership and I received all the records as well. When I start up in the morning and I noticed that there was knocking noise and kinda grinding noise from passenger's side. the noise slowly disappears when it gets warmed up and while I driving, It runs fine and no noises but randomly I can hear the same noise when I stuck in the traffic light. I just scanned the car with autel ap200 bluetooth scanner and found those error codes. what do you guys recommend me to do? and I'm confused with meanings of "not present". does it mean it's erased?

 

Hmmm - a lot of signals. Could be multiple things. Do a quick search of the code numbers on this sight - you will see a range of things from replacing your fuel cap to oil control solenoid TSB ...

This might take a few attempts to address

Good luck !

 

I believe "not present" means that it is stored in the history and it isn't actively reporting an issue. I would clear all of them and see what comes back on after a few miles of driving. Then you can start with those issues

 

That is a very good point - I missed that in the post

 

at the risk of stating the obvious, hows your oil level?

 

It could also mean the “KNOCK SENSOR” has gone bad

 

I erased all codes and drove around 10 miles and rescanned the code. now I have 2 codes : 33FD & 33FF. I'm going to start with the exhaust vanos solenoid.

 

I erased all codes and drove around 10 miles and rescanned the code. now I have 2 codes : 33FD & 33FF

 

The previous owner did a oil change from jiffy lube 10 days ago (There is a sticker on windshield) and oil level is pretty max.

 

I erased all codes and drove around 10 miles and rescanned the code. now I have 2 codes : 33FD & 33FF. I don't see 2F7C : SUPER KNOCKING anymore now.

 

Now I have these 2 codes left. I erased few times but it's still there. I'm not really what I should start to replace first. I just ordered vanos solenoid (brand name URO) from autozone and plan to replace exhaust one and hopefully this fixes the problem. Car doesn't start making any noise today even cold start (that's so weird).. car runs fine but shakes at idle though. what do you guys think?

 

I'd check / change the oil again. Make sure it is at max ( do a warm check ). Hoping that is all it is ..

 

I checked the oil and I think It's little overfilled and was done by jiffy lube 10 days ago (previous owner did it) I can see the oil changed sticker on windshield.

 

I would also do a fresh oil change with a good known filter like Wix. You can google search "r56 33fd" and it pulls up quite a few threads from this and other forums of possible remedies. Something easy and cheap is to start with fresh oil and a good filter. Especially if you think it's slightly overfilled

 

Yeah I might have to do the oil change & change oil filter since I don't really trust jiffy lube and the city I picked up from was countryside so I don't think they have a part for minis

 

I wouldn't put it past Jiffy Lube to not change the oil filter, based on where it is, but it is possible they messed something else up.

The early N18 engines has issue with the oil control solenoid harness, too. There is a service bulletin for where the harness goes through the block. The harness can wick oil and cause issues with the DME.

 

just finished oil change with mobile 1 0w-40 european formula & mann oil filter but still have same issues..

 

Update: solved problem with replacing oil pump solenoid however, car still shakes when car is warmed and can hear irregular knocking noise from passenger side. Could it be exhaust solenoid?

 

You listed a 2D60 fault code; the exhaust vanos solenoid controls the oil flow to the exhaust camshaft adjustment unit (sprocket). These adjustment units can fail, but it's more probable that there is a problem with the vanos solenoid. Here are the troubleshooting steps from Alldata. Keep in mind the sticking issue may be intermittent.

2D60 - P0015

Information saved in
DME

Fault code
2D60 - P0015

Fault text
VANOS, exhaust: Closed-loop control fault, camshaft sticks

Fault description
The diagnostic function monitors the camshaft timing
adjustment.

Condition for fault identification
Test condition:
The fault is recognized when the actual angle fails to
conform to the specified angle while the engine is running.
Potential problem source(s):
- Contaminated oil passage at VANOS solenoid valve
- Oil pressure too low
- Defect in wiring harness to VANOS solenoid valve
- VANOS solenoid valve seized
- VANOS solenoid valve defective
Terminal condition: Terminal 15
Voltage condition:
9 V less than battery voltage less than 16 V
Temperature condition:
- Engine warmed to normal temperature, more than 80 C
Time condition:
none
Other condition:
- Engine ON
- Specified/actual angle difference exceeds 15 crankshaft

Condition for fault
This fault is logged in the control module's fault memory if

memory entry
it remains present for longer than 4 sec.

Action in service
- Check oil level, change engine oil and filter as indicated
- If faults related to the camshaft position sensor have been
logged, repair these first
- Check wiring harness between DME and VANOS solenoid
valve
- Check camshaft and VANOS unit for freedom of
movement and mechanical damage
- Clean VANOS solenoid valve, replace as required

Fault effect and breakdown warning
Possible apparent symptoms:
Engine runs poorly

Driver information
Warning light:
ECE emissions warning lamp: on
US emissions warning lamp: on
ECE electronic engine power reduction: on
US electronic engine power reduction: on
CC message: on
ID: 29
Emergency operation / backup response: Yes
- Emergency operation / backup response (which?):
Valvetronic in emergency backup mode and no turbo boost

Service instruction
none

 

I really appreciate all the details. I just bought Vanos Solenoid from advance auto parts. They offer 95% off all parts in California right now because all stores in California shut down soon.
the part originally cost $143.99 online and fortunately I bought it at $8 after 95% discount. The brand name is "Carquest Premium" I never heard of that but the sales rep told me it's their own brand or something.
Hopefully this part is not defect..

 

Update: replaced exhaust solenoid today and it was pretty easy to replace it by myself. It does seem like rpm is stable and exhaust doesn't make any kind of misfiring noise however, car still shakes when car gets warmed. car runs great as normal but only shakes at idling though. I popped the hood and checked the engine shake but I feel like it got much better than before I replace the vanos solenoid. I feel much more shake or vibration underneath the driver's seat area so I assume it could be a lower engine mount or something?

 

A solid-running engine will feel really "lumpy" if the motor mounts are toast. The right one is interesting to change (just did that tonight myself). And of course, the "dog bone" mount underneath would contribute to vibrations at idle if it's bad.

It's hard to get an idea of what kind of shape that right (passenger's side US) mount is in because it's located under a big four-bolt brace that obscures pretty much the whole mount. You could try putting a floor jack - isolated with a large piece of wood - under your oil pan and see how much "easy vertical movement" you get when lifting the engine by the oil pan. With a good motor mount, I would expect 1/2" of vertical movement before you start having to apply considerable force with the jack. If it's moving a lot more than that, or if you see the engine moving much when you move it from P to R to N to D and back, perhaps with a little throttle, you can suspect those motor mounts.

 

oh I forgot to mention that car doesn't shake when ac is on.

 

I just pulled out spark plugs. how bad are they? I see some corrosion on all 4 of them. I am not sure if the previous owner did replace them from the dealership since I don't see any records and I noticed that cylinder 2,3 spark plugs were not torqued properly by the dealership and they were literally hand tightened.


cylinder 1

cylinder 2

cylinder 3

cylinder 4

 

Cylinder 1 looks like a problem!

Any oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil?