Hi all.

New to the forum so apologies in advance if anything is out of category and/or if I am misusing in anyway!

I have recently purchased an R56 Cooper S 2007 (Automatic Gearbox, 70k miles) and it came with it's fair share of issues to say the least. After inspecting with a scanner, I came across quite a few faults in which I deleted to see what result I would get with the vehicle at hand. Needless to say, it ran absolutely amazing once the faults were removed. After 2/3 journeys, I began to get the main issue I am going to describe below again, and the following faults were the only faults I could really see being plausible.

- 00CF2D EGS: Signal, coolant temperature, from engine management
- 002F22 DME: Engine Temperature, plausibility
- 003043 DME: Clutch Switch 10% (I believe this is to do with a gearbox issue I've been getting and will be replaced)
- 00A6CF JBE: AUC sensor

The Symptoms;
- Cold start of vehicle does not hold anywhere near expected, revs plummet to an instant 700 ish and won't go above 1000, sounds like the engine is getting insufficient fuel as it's spluttering and deviating in it's revs when being sat in idle. Physically seeing the needle "bounce" where it's trying to pick the revs back up and put them to around 700-800.
- When rolling to a junction the vehicle does the same as above, sounds like it's about to stall (Bare in mind it's an auto), but picks it's revs back up and starts to hold at 800 again.
- Fans at the front of the vehicle will continue to spin and make noise for around 5 minutes after car has been switched off and locked. As if it's being told it's consistently overheating when it's gone nothing over 40mph, and has only been ran for around 15 minutes.

Now, the vehicle itself runs absolutely perfect once the faults have been removed, as if it's raring to go. I am not an expert on Mini's nor vehicles in general really, but it sounds to me like it's either the engine temperature that's being thrown up and it's kicking it into limp because it senses something is up, or it's something that's not throwing faults at all and is being masked by such a fault code. But then again, if clearing fault codes makes the problem disappear, does that not mean that one of those faults is the actual fault?

I'm going to leave it to the experts here haha! If anyone has had any issues, and/or knows anything about the problem please let me know! I was going down the route that it could be a timing issue with the engine as I know that's a frequent issue with these vehicles but ever since I cleared those fault codes and it ran great again, it got me speculating if it really is just one of those faults that I need to fix.

Thank you all in advance!

 

For fault code 002F22:

 

@SomeNzx ,

I have had the same issue of the cooling continuous running after engine shut off and found the problem with the ETS sensor(engine temperature sensor located on the thermostat housing). The two wires are not making a complete contact with each other. I took out the pigtail plug and wired it directly to the sensor.

 

If you scan tool has live data:

With the engine cold. pull up your inlet air temp and coolant temp sensors; they should both report the same temperature. Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature, you should see 221 deg F on the scan tool.

Next, pull up your short-term and long-term fuel trims. Record readings for both at idle, 1500 rpm, and 3000 rpm. Post numbers here.