Front suspension bolts came out forced out rusted. Will be replaced.

The ball joints drivers side surprisingly turned after several days. Blaster & one heating.

the passenger side tho just turns not releasing & allen slot is NA assuming I will need to cut this off!

 

Been their many times. PB blaster is your friend.

 

I had soaked those for several days before applying heat but R side the nut spining tho not releasing?
maybe more same blaster few days & more heat?

 

You can use a impact hammer, also tapping the parts on the side with a larger sledge hammer, so like 10lb, quickly breaks the rust on the part on the inside. This will be on the side of that round part o the knuckle.
You don't need to wack the part with a bunch of force like youtuber show. lol

I have also heated up the outside, you need a really good torch and the blue cone of the heat needs to stay on the metal outside of the part is touches. Heat for like a couple minutes. Heat works if PB does not.

Cycle the heat and then tap. With a little work and the right tools you can separate anything on the MINI

 

I have a good mechanic friend swear by using heat does not even bother with a penetrating oil.
theory is heat changes molecular structure of the metal.
more heat please.

the ball joint stud is spinning on it’s own as if no longer attached so I may eventually need to cut off.
or since I am replacing the wheel bearing just leave it.
find out as I get more into this!

 

The ball joint spinning, try placing a jack under the ball joint and lift the ball joint from the bottom. It may give enough pressure to the ball joint and won't spin freely anymore.

 

I've done that. Works most times. I've also had to cut it off. Great times.

 

Yes. This method works very well and easy to try.

 

I tried it put as much load on joint as I felt safe with, the bolt still turns.
I will try a few more times before getting out grinder tho.

original struts ball joints so on way overdue I can say.
but I work on different vehicles & boats!

 

Today I thought I was making progress the connecting link arm for ball joint L side was loosened 45 torx after several heatings oil cooling.
the R side the torx broke off after not too much tension, this is same side as now the ball joint nut & stud are turning freely stuck together.
the R side I will be grinding both the heads off the Torx connector & nut with flange on ball joint.

 

Okay so after I got rid of some of the material of the nut the Jack underneath worked, using a drill cutting holes in nut.



And the arm nut was loosened with some more heat, Question is to change the boot on this arm is there access to reach the inside attachment of boot? It is becoming more obvious as I get things apart to get everything back in alignment will be a challenge!

 

Steering joint arms are some stubborn I heated several many times even set up blocks under the joint in question in picture above to wack it with a ten pound! I think the issue is getting enough leverage on the two arms.
at this point I am just soaking with blaster once a day for couple of weeks see what happens.
the drivers side shock at one point fell out of the knuckle but waiting to get everything movable so I do not damage new parts.

 

Appears I will need to lock the inside section of steering arm, this has flat sides just inside of the threaded joint that is rusted.
with a wrench on this it will just rotate out of wrench.
is there any option besides a vise grip of which will likely destroy those flat sides of steering arms?

 

If the steering rod is frozen inside the tie rod, and heat won’t get them to budge, time to replace both.

 

Well I have begun to come to that conclusion!
even the L side speed sensor bolt is rear hard to move tho it is moving that is one I do not want to break off.

the rack I will need to look that over closer see if I can do that or need a shop?

 

I was able to replace my inner tie rods in the driveway. I used a bunch of 1/2" extensions and this tool:

 

Okay I am not clear how that fits on with the assembly that is unmovable.
maybe I need to trust in the force of mechanical energy here.
the outer tie rod is the one that is stuck here.

 

As long as you can remove the outer tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle, that tool will fit over the ball joint end, then it just slides down to remove the inner from the steering rack. I had to use that tool because my inner and outer were frozen together, too.

 

Okay, I have left the joint still on arm more for alignment when reassembly comes so I will need to check where that is.
but looks like what I was looking for.
thnx

 

That fits over the ball joint?

 

It fit over on my car

 

Okay I will find out next week thnx

 

Okay now I see what you are saying as yes the outer two rods are frozen together.
I got it on will when time avails see how it fit over inside attachment get the bleeping arm off.

 

The inner steering bar attaches to the steering rack inside end of tie rod.
do you leave the inner connector attached to the rack & replace the tie rod & ball joint?

looks like you cut off the rubber boot to get the adaptor onto inner connector to remove tie rods.
the end of tie rod attachment to steering rack I assume you can leave & attach new arm.

 

Seems sometimes you need to do what you would rather not do, drives side looks good, passenger side did have a ripped rubber casing so not as good? I will clean up & look closer as the parts are ordered.
assuming with the arms off one needs to be careful not to pull one side in too far?
& assuming it is best to replace inner arm with ball joint end?
What I found for torque arm to steering track 56 lbs