The Gucci option is to create a vacuum in the cooling system and then suck the new coolant into the engine vacuum. I have one of those kits. But honestly you dont need it.

Some minivans with super long cooling passages for rear seat occupants benefiit from those vacuum fills.

 

Bentley advised against starting engine to move coolant evidently can cause air pockets.
I think I am getting last of parts bolted in place this has not been a rush job tho!
hopefully this weekend I can start filling coolant.

 

Yea, i don't know why they say that. With this engine it has air in it very easy and getting it out at the highest point which is the top of that thermostat, if its moving it helps pull it around and out. I done this on multiple gen 2 MINIs and its works. Most people that just add it end up having to pressure bleed or bleed it again down the road as the fan wants to kick on due to air finally making its way to that thermostat near the sensor.

 

You have to start it to push the air out or you use something like this.

 

Does the car need to run to seal oil pan gasket?
gasket has two lines that go around gasket
maybe a sealer.
oil still leaking but have not started engine yet.
going for record of taking so long.
but then I really ignored the leaks for too long also.
currently doin inventory on fasteners as a few are required to get everything back together.
particularly wheel arch & well.
most of the wheel well liner screws stripped or just stuck, I may try some white grease.
wheel arch needs new plastic bits.

 

The car shouldn't be leaking now if you just changed the oil pan gasket.....
The lines you talking about are some orange looking lines around the gasket
That's a seal made into the gasket.......

 

Car still on jacks rear end pan is weeping hope to get wheels back on today first see if I have enough fasteners for wheel well liners.
assumption heat will help seal gasket?

 

Send a pic. No it should not be leaking at all. It doesn't need high temps to seal. RTV = room temperature vulcanization.

You need need to take it down and reseal. Sorry bro. Been there...

Those wheel well arches are impossible to take off without breaking the clips. Just order a hundred Chinese copies on ebay or Amazon.

 

I just ordered a bunch of those clips.

car is back on ground again before it was on jacks & rear end was weeping so see if that continues with vehicle not elevated & running?
I would rather have that leak than the oil filter housing but will see when started!

 

If you're not sure where it's leaking from add some UV dye to the engine oil.

​​​​​​

 

So no oil leaking I could see tho there was some smoke coming under turbo.
coolant was dripping front center drivers side slow leak may be the hose I did not replace!
& wheel well something leaking oil on to wheel maybe wheel bearing went.
this car has not been driven in a year turned around in Feb.
will need to Jack front up again to check coolant leak then the wheel.
I could only get 1.5 liters in need to check on leak first.
so May be awhile.

 

Looks like the fitting under the expansion tank is leaking, maybe missing o rin?

this 90’fitting is not listed with the expansion tank realOEM?

 

Those expansion tanks are prone to cracking. Just replace the entire unit.

 

I was assuming the hose was leaking as the fitting is all wet, the tank does not show any cracks?
but?

 

Could be. Send a pic where it connects. You might change both the bottle and hose. I changed mine when I changed the motor at 145k miles. I think it was changed once before that. The cap also needs to get changed as it holds pressure and they eventually leak at the seal.

 

Yep mine had cracks under the tank, you flip the tank over and see them. When its gets hot it leaks. When cold you dont see it.

 

The hose locks in but both have not been changed so maybe change both as connection seems loose.

 

Yes that connection always seemed very prone to leaks... In my opinion.

 

To change the connector under the expansion tank the hose/pipe connects to the turbo, the thermostat water pump & supply expansion tank.
the connection to remove is under everything of course, I was assuming the hose pipe was full of coolant it was.
so I had placed a plastic container under the connector to be removed which filled to overflowing but not much.
that needed to be emptied without spilling more coolant that was new with a funnel & hose.
evidently the coolant system needs to be fully warmed up for coolant to move through the system as I had a continuous leak at expansion tank.I could not do that, new hose is almost installed the attaching screw needs to go back into the brake booster.

what is the best app to get readings off engine does DashCmd still work on these engines?

 

Like temperature? I have a permanent coolant temp and oil pressure guage installed but I also use AutoEnginuity software.

Im sure there are cheap bluetooth-to-phone options for coolant temp. Oil pressure requires a sending unit be installed in a port next to the vaccum pump.

 

AutoEnginuity software Is used with what device?

someone nearby ran low on coolant overheated engine blew head gasket so on.
where would they sell a car in that shape? It is the special model cooper works!

 

[QUOTE=Seaswood;4656288]AutoEnginuity software Is used with what device?QUOTE]

Windows.

 

New expansion tank new hose to expansion tank also goes to turbo & no leaks!
started with fan then started engine brought up to operating temps 210 degrees & shut dow.
the coolant did not start to move until engine was shut off as it cooled down more coolant was pulled in I had mixed a gallon.
will need to mix some more before restarting, this was static in garage.

 

Cool bro.

 

Except when I moved the car to start last time there was a brown ooze bleeding onto wheel & floor.
so I may be doing wheel bearings!