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[QUOTE=Derek Chung;4637065]See if google share will work:
Ah so that's an old bushing? Thats what the new seal sits in front of? So you're trying to show that a new metal bushing wont help anything? If so why do the seals keep failing?
New bushing being test-fit on the neck of TC. Bushing would always be destroyed upon removal.
Yes, the seal will sit on top of the bushing on the TC neck.
Bushings are not for sealing. It is for keeping / holding the TC inline with everything else (crankshaft, tranny pump, etc.)
I still don't know why ATF keeps on leaking (thru the seal) and it is not the seal. Again. CONCENTRIC of everything is what I have been trying to achieve.
Maybe the valvoline Maxlife ATF itself being too thin...
New bushing being test-fit on the neck of TC. Bushing would always be destroyed upon removal.
Yes, the seal will sit on top of the bushing on the TC neck.
Bushings are not for sealing. It is for keeping / holding the TC inline with everything else (crankshaft, tranny pump, etc.)
I still don't know why ATF keeps on leaking (thru the seal) and it is not the seal. Again. CONCENTRIC of everything is what I have been trying to achieve.
Maybe the valvoline Maxlife ATF itself being too thin...
...looked a little scratched up in the pic so I thought it was a used one. Sorry about that.
OK I understand yes the bushing is not for oil control.
The new bushing is about as loose on the TC as the old ones are when on the tranny so its concentric enough. You think.
The seal goes around that bushing, inside or just in front of it?
I would take the tranny apart and change the bushing If I was you, while you have it all out of the car. The transmission specialist said as much.
Ive only ever used the AISIN fluid, so I couldn't say.
I'm going through this also with a 2010 R55 with about 85k on the odo. Pulled the engine due to low compression on one cylinder and after getting it remachined, I replaced a bunch of seals including the input and output seals on the tranny; front and rear main seals on the engine, etc. Now have a substantial leak from the input seal on the tranny. Does anyone have more insight on this?
I understand the hypothesis that the bushing is worm which makes it hard to get the TC concentric when reinstalling it on the car. BUT, wouldn't this also be true for a used transmission with an un-touched used seal?
Maybe we need to look for a more precise way to tight the TC to the flywheel to keep them concentric...
Or maybe the seal needs to be recessed a little bit and we aren't getting that correct. Has anyone ever found the the special tool 24 4 250 to measure if it would recess the seal a little bit?
Thanks!!! I'm getting ready to pull the tranny and replace the seal with a dealer part; wish I knew how to make sure it doesn't leak again...
Get the special tool and if possible ask a transmission expert how to prep it beforehand. Clearly this is not easy to get right according to even Mini mechanics I spoke to.
Get the special tool and if possible ask a transmission expert how to prep it beforehand. Clearly this is not easy to get right according to even Mini mechanics I spoke to.
Fingers crossed!
I can’t find the special tool anywhere!
If anyone has it, can you please let me know where it came from or send me a couple of measurements so I can machine something to match?
Thanks - It's a great thread and I've referenced that when I was doing my engine in-and-out, but I didn't see a link to the seal tool. I have found the AGA seal tool kit for the output (axle) seals. This doesn't seem to apply to the input (torque converter) seal. The TC seal seems to sit with the front edge lined up with the front edge of the housing, but I can't tell if it's really flat or maybe recessed ~ 1mm ... The axle seals definitely sit in 2-3 mm.
Prep prep prep...weve all gotten burned badly by that stupid seal.
I’ve been wondering if there isn’t some subtlety to aligning the parts, such as having the torque converter facing up when it’s mounted to the engine instead of sideways. That would eliminate any chance of the TC jumping off it’s ears and would help with centering (no gravity related droop).
Just got the tool and an official MINI input seal from ECS Tuning and will start taking the engine out next week. Here are some photos to hold you over... It definitely does not recess the seal into the housing at all since it's wider than the seal OD. I'm guessing it will sit staight on the input shaft - you can notice it has two different size counter bores which I assume is to keep it straight. For those arguing about lubricating the seals, the official MINI seal comes with the ID pre-lubricated. Looks like a lithium grease and not specialty transmission assembly lube. For those curious about the tool It has both the old 24 4 250 part number (244250 or 244-250) and 83 30 0 495 245 (83300495245) part number. It feels like carbon filled nylon. Definitely not metal. Was turned on a lathe.
Thanks for the update, most of those tools MINI likes to stock in germany and usually are only dealer ordered for their expensive tool wall. So some of them you never see.