Just acquired the car it had not been started in three years. Had the car in my garage working on it and had to evacuate to higher ground because of hurricane. Got about 2 miles and the battery light came on then finally it quit. The new battery I had put in was not charging. I did some testing the battery reads 11.5 and with car running voltage stays the same (11.5) and decreases when lights, blower, wipers, etc are turned on (11.1). Car quits running when negative battery cable removed. Belt is turning the alternator. Battery cables have been cleaned. Have not touched ground wires or wires leading to alternator. The new battery was not registered but it is the same as the old one. Anything else to check before replacing the alternator?

 

Alternator output should be 14.1 volts +/-. Your alternator is toast. Maybe other issues too but alternator is definitely toast.

Don't disconnect the negative terminal when the car is running.

 

Is there an alternator fuse I should check before replacing the alternator.

 

@RickR

Before you go out buying a new alternator, you need to register your new battery with the OBDII scan tool. Check your negative cable first to see if your mini is equipped with an IBS(intelligent battery system). It’s that square looking thinga-majig on your negative cable.

p.s. There is no alternator fuse

 

I registered the battery with an Autophix 7910 OBD2 scanner. Battery still not charging. Scanner shows battery voltage decreasing as car is running.

 

@RickR

At least you eliminated one other possible cause. Now we can safely say that your alternator has headed out to lunch

 

I'm on my way. Man I hope it's the alternator!

 

Well I got to the alternator. Have to get an E10 torx socket to continue. Next will need to buy the new alternator. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

That unit should be a Bosch alternator 150amp....... I'd check a local rebuilder they're cheaper and get a warranty also....

 

@RickR

I totally agree GET A RE-MANUFACTURED or re-built unit and not a new one. You’ll save crap load of money(literally)

 

I've just did this same thing....... I had the original from the gar rebuilt....... Looks brand new.
They also have two other units Valeo and denso...... on the rear black cover all the info is there.
Good luck.

 

 

Ok, I can't get the last bolt out of the alternator. (E10 torx reverse socket) An air-conditioner line is in the way. Tried an 8mm wrench but can't get it to turn. (Can't get enough pressure on it). Also afraid of stripping it. How hard would it be to remove the AC line? Can't find a youtube video showing this. Any other suggestions?

 

Need to get an E-Torx socket. You'll strip that thing with a regular box wrench. Pull that intercooler hose out, and you should be able to get at it from below with a socket tool.

 

Took the bolt off of the intercooler hose and it will not budge. Is there a trick to getting it off?

 

Nope, that's the AC line. The intercooler hose is the rubber duct, about 2" in diameter right in front of the alternator.

 

I already removed the intercooler hose. The AC line is preventing the last torx bolt to be removed. Sorry for the confusion. I found a video where they use an 8mm wrench to remove the last torx bolt.


I can't get it to budge with the 8mm wrench and have stopped trying to avoid striping it. I'm considering removing that AC line and was hoping for some help. Do I need to remove the AC compressor of can the line be loosened and moved enough to get at the bolt?

Thanks!

 

Here is how the factory recommends removing that bolt:

 

When I replaced the alternator on mines, I loosened the ac line just a little to allow the line to move without removal. Then
​​​​​​​I used the E socket to remove the bolts.

 

Thanks for your help. Got the E10 Torx bolt out using a swivel socket. Worked great. Decided to go with a new Bosch alternator from eEuroparts.com.

 

Well I got the alternator installed and it's charging as it should. Took it for a test drive and it overheated. It appeared to be leaking coolant from the bottom of the expansion tank. I did remove the tank when I changed the oil filter. Took the tank out, checked the fitting on the bottom and put it back together. Test drove it again and still overheated but this time no coolant leak. When it was hot the expansion tank filled up to the top, hissing noise from the cap but no coolant leaking. Not sure what to check next. I did have the front taken apart to install the alternator so maybe I missed something putting it back together?? Also had a hard time getting the oil filter cap off. it ended up breaking so maybe something happened there.It didn't over heat before. Thanks!!

 

Also I completely removed the hose that attaches to the bottom of the expansion tank so I could get vice grips on the oil filter cap and a good bit of anti-freeze ran out. When I got it all back together I refilled the coolant. Could this have let air into the system causing it to overheat? Or possibly got the belt on wrong and it's not turning the water pump?

 

@RickR
Anytime you open up the coolant system, essentially you’re letting air in the system. Your best course of action is to purge the air out by opening up your bleeder screw which is located right on top of the thermostat housing. Leave the bleeder screw open while you’re warming up the engine and filling the coolant. When coolant starts overflowing, tighten the bleeder screw with your long screwdriver. Hope this helps.

 

I looked for the bleeder screw location in my Bentley manual and didn't see it identified. I did a Google search and found this video which id's the screw.


One thing to note with some other research, it is a plastic screw, use caution do not over tighten or strip it.

 

Thanks for the help! Hopefully bleeding it fixes the overheating.