I got the error light that shows the car on a lift and then the red "BRAKE" lite stays on. I checked error codes and got a 5E5D which says "brake pad rear worn". Sure enough, those bad boys were worn. I switched them out and the brake pad sensor and I still can't get the code cleared. I'm using BlueDriver which is bluetooth based and I can get real time readings so I feel like it's pretty high end. I bought this sensor from ECS: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bowa-par...356792573~bow/

Any thoughts?

edit: on the drive in to work, the brake light flickered and sometimes got stuck on being very dim like half bright.

Just did my brakes. I had the same issue when done. I didn't replace the pad sensor and apparently it was damaged. Once replaced it went away. Check the placement of your pad wear sensor.

After I replaced it, I cleared the codes with Bimmerlink but the light was still on till I drove it around the block.

the wear sensor is a very simple device. Nothing more than a loop of wire encased in plastic and sits in a goove in the pad. As the pad gets thin the plastic eventually touches the rotor and will wear down. Once it wears enuf the wire makes contact and eventually breaks causing an open circuit and the 'worn' alert comes on. Once the sensor is replaced or something else done to reconnect the circuit the light will stay on. Most common is to simply replace the sensor. On a GEN2+ the car should automatically 'see' the reconnected circuit and clear the light. If the light does not clear then perhaps you didn't get the new sensor plugged in correctly ..... in any case 'something you are sure is right, is wrong'

btw, some find the sensors pretty useless - I rotate my own tires and do a visual of the pads each time I pull a wheel ...... the car just looks for an 'open' on the sensor. I snip 'em off and tie the two wire ends together. Apply a lil water seal and zip tie it out of the way . . .

I considered clipping the wire and bypassing but I am trying to keep it stock.

Maybe the new sensor is bad. I suppose I’ll call ECS

still have the old sensor? Clip it and make yourself a test jig .....

You have a voltmeter? Pull the connector and measure the pins on the sensor. If you have continuity the sensor is good, if not then it's bad.

If the sensor is good you can try putting a jumper on the harness and then try clearing the codes again. If it sill won't clear then you've likely got some wiring issue between the sensor connector and the computer.

unfortunately the cable broke when I was trying to get it out.

yep, all makes sense. The fact that the light is flickering suggests it’s a connector issue to me. I’ll be back home tomorrow to check

Closing this one out. There's a procedure to reset the brake light sensor.
I did it and it didn't go out immediately. I drove the car a day or two later and the light went out. I guess you just have to wait.