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I have a 08 hatch. Pulled the center bolt on my crankshaft pulley to change the crankshaft seal ( not knowing not too ) but that's the least of my problems. When I pulled out the bolt the timing chain gear is sliding out towards the outside of the motor. Timing chain still connected mind you. I can put the bolt back in and move the gear back in. But there is a gap between the seal and the bushing where it is suppose to seal the from oil pouring out. Idk if my crankshaft is out of round or a bearing let loose or what? I've never seen this on any motor in my life. I have a pic if that helps??? Gap in the seal is directly left of the bolt.
First off, you're going to have to take the whole thing apart again. Since you loosened the crank bolt, that bolt needs to be replaced with a new one. They are a one time use, torque to yield bolt.
Second, you are going to have to invest in some timing tools to get everything lined up again. Might as well also invest in a timing chain kit, since the chains are a serious wear item on these engines.
Lastly, it looks like the seal was pushed in too far, which could be the source for your gap...
Unfortunately for you, a simple maintenance item has now turned into a somewhat more serious maintenance task. Based on the fact that you removed the crank bolt, I would NOT drive the car at all until you at least get the timing tools and new bolts. If the timing chain looses time between the crank and the cams, at best the car won't run right and it will throw a whole slew of codes at you. At worst, the valves will make close acquaintance with the pistons, and you'll be looking at more serious engine work.
First off, you're going to have to take the whole thing apart again. Since you loosened the crank bolt, that bolt needs to be replaced with a new one. They are a one time use, torque to yield bolt.
Second, you are going to have to invest in some timing tools to get everything lined up again. Might as well also invest in a timing chain kit, since the chains are a serious wear item on these engines.
Lastly, it looks like the seal was pushed in too far, which could be the source for your gap...
Unfortunately for you, a simple maintenance item has now turned into a somewhat more serious maintenance task. Based on the fact that you removed the crank bolt, I would NOT drive the car at all until you at least get the timing tools and new bolts. If the timing chain looses time between the crank and the cams, at best the car won't run right and it will throw a whole slew of codes at you. At worst, the valves will make close acquaintance with the pistons, and you'll be looking at more serious engine work.
yes I have already purchased the tools need to time it. There is a tab behind the seal that keeps it from pushing the seal in too far. Or does the seal fit flush with the block? I'm thinking that all it needs to be inserted is to the point where it seals on the bushing which is flush to the block but was worried that seal will move once heat and oil hits it.?
First off, you're going to have to take the whole thing apart again. Since you loosened the crank bolt, that bolt needs to be replaced with a new one. They are a one time use, torque to yield bolt.
Second, you are going to have to invest in some timing tools to get everything lined up again. Might as well also invest in a timing chain kit, since the chains are a serious wear item on these engines.
Lastly, it looks like the seal was pushed in too far, which could be the source for your gap...
Unfortunately for you, a simple maintenance item has now turned into a somewhat more serious maintenance task. Based on the fact that you removed the crank bolt, I would NOT drive the car at all until you at least get the timing tools and new bolts. If the timing chain looses time between the crank and the cams, at best the car won't run right and it will throw a whole slew of codes at you. At worst, the valves will make close acquaintance with the pistons, and you'll be looking at more serious engine work.
I understand and thank you but that doesn't help me as to why the gears is sliding out towards the outside when that bolt is out. That should be a fixed gear if it needs to be inside with the cams????
I understand and thank you but that doesn't help me as to why the gears is sliding out towards the outside when that bolt is out. That should be a fixed gear if it needs to be inside with the cams????
The timing chain tensioner is taking the slack out of the chain when removing the crank bolt and the hub. The sprocket for the timing chain isn't connected on the crank itself, it rides on the hub that pulls out when you take the bolt out. The bolt wedges the sprocket for the timing chain between the hub and the front of the crank to hold it in place, it isn't keyed either so it will spin once the bolt is loose. Dumb design but that's how it is.
As for the front main. When I did mine I put it flush with the block and it doesn't leak.
There is a special tool for installing that seal, and it should end up just inside from flush with the block. Also mentioned, the timing sprocket is not keyed to the crank, so as soon as that bolt is removed, the sprocket can move and mess with your timing. The only way to reseat it is to retime the crank and cams.
Besides timing tools, valve cover gasket, and a new crank bolt, you're gonna need instructions on how to do it. Bentley has about the best printed version, then there's an online version from BMW that includes several procedures written for the N12 but easily used for the N14 too --- https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/category/mini-r56/ And there's the illustrated parts catalog --- https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select you should get familiar with it to help understand how the chain sprockets are installed. As a newbie to the Mini world, don't even think about taking shortcuts when setting timing. It's a totally different process that doesn't use TDC. Pay attention to the warnings about manual engine rotation --- DO NOT rotate the engine CCW when the chain is installed.
Based on your 1st post, you have a lot to learn. A major screw-up can be very costly, especially with timing. Be careful.
Besides timing tools, valve cover gasket, and a new crank bolt, you're gonna need instructions on how to do it. Bentley has about the best printed version, then there's an online version from BMW that includes several procedures written for the N12 but easily used for the N14 too --- https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/category/mini-r56/ And there's the illustrated parts catalog --- https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select you should get familiar with it to help understand how the chain sprockets are installed. As a newbie to the Mini world, don't even think about taking shortcuts when setting timing. It's a totally different process that doesn't use TDC. Pay attention to the warnings about manual engine rotation --- DO NOT rotate the engine CCW when the chain is installed.
Based on your 1st post, you have a lot to learn. A major screw-up can be very costly, especially with timing. Be careful.
yes I do have alot to learn. And I'm learning. I didn't have a choice because of monetary reasons. I did manage to do alot of things right though. Lol.
yes I do have alot to learn. And I'm learning. I didn't have a choice because of monetary reasons. I did manage to do alot of things right though. Lol.
Thank you for the link I really do appreciate it. I'm learning the hard way I know that. I really have no choice. I brought it to the local dealer near me and they screwed it up as bad as I did. And lied through their teeth when i questioned them.. I'm not sure what I can do about them other than write horrible reviews and use the bbb and hopefully get some satisfaction from them. I know I wouldn't bring a tricycle to them ever again. But I do want to thank you. I will use all the tools you awesome people give me. Thanks everyone on here.
The crankshaft seal usually takes a special tool for installation for correct depth. Some have made their own tool out of a plumbing PVC adapter. It’s also one of those PTFE seals so you shouldn’t use oil or any other lubricant to install it. Fel-Pro makes a good seal that also comes with a installation sleeve included.
