Hello. I just got a 2007 hardtop MCS for the summer. It's pretty clean and when I bought it I didnt hear any timing chain noise. Next morning when cold it reared its ugly chattering head.

Seeing how these are trashed if they fail, I've decided to do it and a lot of PM while I'm here. It's also leaking some oil which seems to be the OFHG but theres also oil in the intercooler line on the pass side. im new to turbo engines, what cause this?

Gonna do some upgrades while I've got it in the service position. So far I've decided on the following, anything else?
downpipe
Intercooler
bov spacer and spring
Timing chain kit
Friction wheel and pulley
water pump
Oil return tube

The previous owner just did tstat, valve cover gasket and plugs.

Anyone selling a stock JCW turbo in good condition?

 

oil in the intercooler could be from pcv blowby. Check the intake valves to see if you need a walnut blast. Perhaps the oil filter gaskets. Detroit tuned has a kit that includes upgraded turbo oil lines and filter gaskets. Did they change the plastic water tube between the pump and thermo?

 

Ill check the pipe, thanks!
I plan on getting a walnut blaster after getting a quote. Its just cheaper to buy the machine.
Ive got most of the front off today, gonna just pull the whole front end off.
Hopefully i didnt fry anything because my ******* arced the alternator lug...any pointers to what this usually does on these cars?

Is there any benefit to upgrading charge pipes or deleting the resonator tube?

 

Good idea in the walnut blaster. The more often you do it the faster it will go. I also use rislone fuel injector cleaner with each fill up, but that won't help the valves. Solved a bumpy idle I had after 65k miles. Yah, the battery should be disconnected before doing any work on the engine. We all are lazy about it at some time. You won't know if you're okay till you try to start it up. I'm assuming it happened when you were taking off the downpipe heat shield, been there, done that haha. Since you're in there you can upgrade the charge pipes, they are a pain to get to when everything is all together, just like everything else (cough, alternator)

 

You too huh? You called it, this all started as a downpipe upgrade, then i got the quote for the timing chain and blasting. Nope, ill do it myself!
I really just wanted to not do much work on this car as its a fun replacement while my e36m is down but i just couldnt run it until it decided to explode lol. Plus i feel 250whp should be pretty damn fun, reminds me of my old ITR that i should have never sold.

Guess i should replace the alt too...parts bill starting to be hefty lol.

 

Buy a BMW, or any german car really, you're gonna do lots of work on it. Just not built like a Toyota. Not difficult, just time consuming since you gotta take a bunch of stuff out to get to the $15 plastic engine part you want to replace. I got a stage 2 setup on my 2012 S so it should be around 250bhp from what I've read. That extra 60 ponies and torque truly does make it a joy to daily drive. And you don't have to rev it to 9k rpm like the honda, bonus! I changed my alt at ~60k so it might've already been done on your car. Not a terribly expensive part if you got the extra cash and replacing it with the front end off should be a bajillion times easier, your call.

 

Just in case you don't have a Bentley manual, here's a link to a bunch of BMW repair procedures --- https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/category/mini-r56/ Titles are for N12 but pretty easy to tell the differences for N14. Be extra careful when doing the timing. These engines are not timed at TDC like most cars.

Another source for oil in the IC / lines is a turbo with worn bearings. Try to wiggle the turbo shaft. If it does anything other than rotate, it's shot.

 

Thanks for the input...I'll look for a Bentley.
And for the more bad news, turbo has shaft play, I really didnt want to fork out cash for a turbo quite yet. What's the best bang for the buck here?
Looking at turbos quickly seems a rebuilt JCW turbo would be best. I dont want to do meth or stress daily driveability. This sound good?

 

If you decide on a rebuilt, check around for others that have bought from the same source. Rebuilding a turbo center section is not for beginners. Also note that JCW turbos have a different part number than MCS turbos (check our illustrated parts list, https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select ) Not sure about performance but I've read that air inlet hoses are different sizes. If you can live with a used (not rebuilt) MCS turbo, work with me via NAM messaging --- price is right.

 

Love it! Looks like it’s in such a state of entropy!

If I needed a new turbo, the Borg Warner Airworks would be my first choice:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-borgwarn...space-0146~bw/

Second choice would be a Borg Warner N18 JCW turbo!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-borgwarn...1657649496~bw/

 

So Oldbrokenwind has offered me a good low mileage turbo you removed off his 2007 mcs at a great price, thanks!
My question is will it be a direct replacement? The numbers are the turbo tag are different but id assume thats just build date and such BUT i dont know turbos well. Will get some pics soon

 

All 2nd gen turbos are physically interchangeable.

 

Correct.
However, I bought a replacement turbo from a low miles N18 to use on an N14. The waste gate canister (actuator) was different (larger) on the N18 turbo. The ECU had a hard time modulating the wastegate until I swapped in the N14 actuator. Very simple to do if needed.

 

Interesting, first I've heard of that

 

Having some difficulty getting the right gasket for turbo to downpipe. Even fcp euro help didnt know. There are two depending which turbo i have but i cant see the part number they have on my turbo...how do i find the turbo part number needed to match to:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...ooper-01207500

 

Pretty sure the down pipe to turbo gasket is the same for all 2nd gen Minis...
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=18307589503

 

ANother bonehead question upcoming!

Got the car apart and just noticed i bought the timing kit for the NA cars, not turbo. Instead of returning im thinking i just need a different top guide....is everything else the same?

 

There is a difference between the two turbo gaskets, but I'm fairly sure it is not critical. I believe I've used both mating a N18 turbo to an early 2007 manifold. The bolt pattern is the same.

 

ECS lists a minimal kit for both NA and turbo engines (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-par...11439853s2~fe/) that only includes the guides (3), chain and tensioner.Whatever is different with your kit it is not the top guide.
Real OEM should tell you what is.

 

Well i have that style upper guide, came in my kit, and it is not the same as came off the car. Maybe they have the wrong listing. i will check real oem

 

This ECS list only has one 2007 year listed and it shows as a Base model. Probably an oversight but I've learned to not trust ECS --- they've sent wrong stuff before.

 

Ones a thicker 3 layer gasket and one is a 2 layer. MINI changed things up part way through production years. Most people match it up to the old one. Or they just buy both and then return the one they did not use when they took the old one off.

If you need MINI info we would know more here on NAM then pretty much anywhere or you can PM me as I have seen it all over the years since 2004.

 

Thanks to old broken wind for a basically brand new.!!
He also send me a Turbo gasket and I ordered one too so we shall see.

I ordered another time in set off eBay it's cheap and oem. I'd recommend using them. Minipartsstore.

Pulled the manifold off to do a walnut blast too. These 2 vac tubes were hooked up but I'm assuming they go to the vac box...right? Orientation matter?



Ps. I sold my catalytic converter to my local buyer for 300. The app has them at $550 but that's the processor. The buyer in the forums here is wanting you to name your price. I've noticed those buyers never pay enough and will take advantage where they can. Just my $.02

 

As long as you ordered a new turbo / DP gasket, I strongly suggest you use it and toss the one I sent. The turbo / manifold gaskets are new, from a few head rebuild kits I've bought over the years. They aren't for my big Garrett and I have no use for them.

If your new timing set doesn't fit snug over the cams, consider exchanging it for a more expensive model. Also, be prepared to grind off a bit of the tool that interferes with the turbo --- if you have the turbo installed when setting the timing.

Here's a RealOEM chart showing the vacuum hose routing. The single connection not shown going anywhere connects to the vacuum pump.

Hose orientation at the vacuum tank shouldn't matter, but check for tank markings just in case.

 

The new timing set is OEM. I meant it was cheap cost wise by the seller. It fits snug.
Odd to me the crank sprocket isnt keyed, just feels wrong not setting the timing.
Oh and TTY bolts, eek!

Today i pulled the intake and headed to HF to build me a walnut blasting setup. The valves are nasty!