Not sure what you mean by "just feels wrong not setting the timing". Timing has to be reset any time the chain is replaced. Yes, it's odd to most of us that the crank isn't keyed, especially when we don't like to adhere to torque specs. If this crank bolt isn't tightened properly, and with extra clean parts, it's gonna come loose and cause serious damage. Pay attention to the procedures.

Are you having fun yet?

 

You mean the timing is SAVED when the locking set is put into place, correct? There is no way to check by turning the engine over by hand and checking or is there? Im not finding anywhere showing this. Setting timing normally means lining up the crank and cam timing marks to me.

 

Setting timing means locking the crank and cams in phase. The procedure is slightly different from many other cars, but the end result is that same. Once you have everything locked in place, remove the timing tools and turn the crank through the 4-cycles. Replace the timing tools, and everything should drop into place if it was done correctly. Just be sure NOT to turn the crank counter clockwise.

 

Im seeing conflicting and or updated torque specs for the cam and crank bolts.
Is this correct?
Damper Hub to Crankshaft - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 50Nm (36.8 ft-lbs)
Stage 2 = additional 180 deg of rotation

Exhaust Sprocket to Camshaft [N14] (M10x30mm) - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 20Nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
State 2 = additional 90deg of rotation

VANOS Unit to Intake Camshaft [N14] - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 20Nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
Stage 2 = additional 180deg of rotation

I

 

Way back in one of the earlier posts, I sent a link to BMW repair guides. It has a complete procedure on setting and checking R56 timing. I just tried accessing it and got nothing --- not sure why but here's another procedure with similar info. Bentley also has a chain replacement procedure but nothing for checking it.

There is nothing "normal" about Mini timing setup. Don't even think about TDC and timing marks. Read the procedure before trying it --- get an idea of what you need to do before doing it. If something doesn't make sense, or you need an explanation, ask someone. Remember, you're working with TTY bolts --- one-time use. There's no "do-overs" with the same hardware. And, follow njaremka's advice --- NO CCW crank rotation with timing chain installed. Vanos gets very unhappy when turned backwards, and can screw up the timing adjustment.

Those torque specs are correct. Pay close attention to the hub-to-crankshaft spec, it's the updated version. Old spec didn't have enough rotation and was coming loose --- disaster!

 

Thanks for the pdf walt!
I feel more comfortable now starting it up. Roasted the engine 4,8,12x and everything lined up still although the cheap amazon timing lock set I bought was wonky I feel its correct.
lots of new parts on today.

 

Nothing goes on this port, right?
back of the intake manifold. On the far back.

 

Correct.

 

thanks, i checked realoem but didnt see anything

 

well im a hold up again. i tried to delete the noise maker with a 2- 1/4 pipe and it just does not fit over the hose so now i have a cut setup i cant use. all the deletes are out of country so long shipping.
what is the preferred method to delete this?
anyone have a stock hose they dont want laying around to get me by? need the portion from the noise maker junction to the hard intercooler pipe on the R side.

 

Way Motors:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-no...5-r56-r57.html

 

Too expensive for what it is that would require me to buy another factory hose also. thanks tho
Proabably just order a whole hose kit off ebay...and wait a long time :(

 

Gotcha. I re-read your post, and you cut the OEM hoses...

I would give Way Motors a call and see what they have available in stock. They have a bunch of those pipes listed on their site.

 

Yes we have the complete hoses in stock
https://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-...lete-hose.html

 

It runs! But doesn't stop!
getting no brake assist so after looking g around I start looking at the vacuum pump. Thought maybe I crossed the lines at the box with the waste gate, but does that matter?
When I pulled the hose off the pump I heard vacuum loss. Went to check a few minutes later and oil is coming out. I dont know how these systems work...is the pump shot?
Brakes worked fine before all this.
Pics are bad but there is oil coming from the vacuum line and seems to be leaking too.

 

Your pics don't show the vacuum pump brake line outlet or its hose, only the waste gate outlet. Neither one should have oil in them. My guess is the pump is shot. The pump's brake outlet is extremely fragile, did yours get broken off? If it's broken off, I'm told replacements connectors are available, otherwise a new pump is req'd. Have you checked to see if the pump is creating a vacuum at both connections? Should be about 10 in/Hg for the WG. Don't know how much for the brake line. I suggest you remove yours and check it for binding / smooth operation.

Last time I rebuilt my engine, I replaced the vacuum pump --- for "insurance" reasons. When they seize up, they break the exhaust cam and / or sprocket bolt and cause valve / piston contact. Mine hasn't yet seized, but it's been replaced with a new one --- about $450. If you're desperate, I'll sell my old one for a reasonable price, but I really recommend replacing it with a new one. Mine has 100K miles on it, no leaks and operates "smoothly", so it should be an acceptable temporary replacement.



Item #10 is the brake line.

 

Terrible pics I know but the nipple is still there.
Doing more research tomorrow but pump is likely shot. Found some new oem for a little over $100 so I'll go with that.
Strange it decided to go while doing this work. Drove the car for 12 miles today and she feels soo much more alive...almost time for a tune. Gonna get the oem coil packs in there and see if they like the ngk 1422 plugs.

 

Here's an actual pic showing my vacuum pump and the brake hose. Ignore all the other stuff, most of it's aftermarket and totally different from yours. Your vacuum pump and hose should be the same.

 

Car should be running soon and I'm looking at tunes. MARIO is the overwhelming favorite here and I'm sure it's a great tune. My question is though is there a handheld unit for sale that can be removed when sold?
I dont keep any car for very long so a $800 tune is big chunk of change. Would be nice to be able to remove the tune back to stock and sell it separately. Thanks!

 

Better ask if it can be transferred to another vehicle

 

If you don’t think you’ll keep the car long term, an aftermarket tune is not for you. If you are at all thinking temporary with the car, get a piggy back module, like the NM power module or the JB+.

If you are thinking full tune, get in touch with @Lou@Prototype-R as another option. Mario is a “vendor” for RPM Power, and his tunes are more off-the-shelf as far as tunes are concerned. Lou actually does the tuning to your ECU, which gets you a slightly better final result.

 

@njaremka thanks for the info
I cant see a tuner available at NM for the n14. Only n18 and f series.
Do you prefer jb or nm?

 

I guess I didn’t realize you had an N14…

 

Well guess something didnt like my work i guess. Was driving down the road and about 25 miles and then lost power. Car was running great before! Blew the dipstick out and shut it down. Let it cool off then hobbled it home since i wasnt far.

Bore scoped it yesterday:
Cyl 3 is flooded with oil.
Cyl4 looks wet too from oil.
cyl 1 and 2 look fine
Will start and run but lots of smoke, burnt oil coming from crankcase.

 

ideas?