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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 05:29 AM
  #1  
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Mike1029
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From: branford/ct
2011 Mini Cooper s

Hello my new friends I need help :
i recently had miss fire on all cylinders I brought the car to a mini dealership after testing and replacing parts (not fixing anything) they told me it was the injectors.they told me the price I decided to replace them myself .i ordered 4 injectors
And installed them.now the car turns over after 3 seconds starts than shuts off or it’ll run for 1 minute than 1/2 engine kicks on
I was told even with new injectors you need to fit the Teflon O-rings With the mini tool.has anyone experienced this?
heres the first set of codes I got,37de,2c58,28a1,2d55,2d54,277a,miss fire on all cylinders.thank you in advance
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 06:23 AM
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njaremka
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I did some research on your codes (https://bmwfault.codes/) and found these descriptions:

37de - Crankcase ventilation heating, activation: Line disconnection
2c58 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
28a1 - Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible
2d55 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: not controllable / Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
2d54 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable /
Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
277a - Hot film air mass meter, signal: Electrical fault / Combustion misfires, cylinder 4

I am curious that the whole story is not coming out. Did you recently perform some maintenance activity? For the two VANOS codes, I would replace the two VANOS solenoids. Then, it appears you have a bad MAF sensor. After those three items, clear all codes, and see how she runs. Anything that comes up after that would show next course of action.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 09:36 AM
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thefarside
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From: MA
Originally Posted by njaremka
I did some research on your codes (https://bmwfault.codes/) and found these descriptions:

37de - Crankcase ventilation heating, activation: Line disconnection
2c58 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
28a1 - Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible
2d55 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: not controllable / Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
2d54 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable /
Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
277a - Hot film air mass meter, signal: Electrical fault / Combustion misfires, cylinder 4

I am curious that the whole story is not coming out. Did you recently perform some maintenance activity? For the two VANOS codes, I would replace the two VANOS solenoids. Then, it appears you have a bad MAF sensor. After those three items, clear all codes, and see how she runs. Anything that comes up after that would show next course of action.
No disrespect to njaremka, however, I'm more inclined to assess the problem as several items not properly re-connected.

Time and again I've found Mini's DTC logic in the ECU's software to be completely screwy! Key takeaway: Don't take Mini's DTC at face value

Suggest the first thing you do is clear all codes, then run again to see which ones return.

1) - 37de - Crankcase ventilation heating, activation: Line disconnection
2) - 2c58 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
3) - 28a1 - Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible
4) - 2d55 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: not controllable / Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
5) - 2d54 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable /
Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
6 - 277a - Hot film air mass meter, signal: Electrical fault / Combustion misfires, cylinder 4

1 is likely caused by the heater on the intake tube to the turbo because it is not connected or the wire is damaged or no power
2 is a reaction to other problems/codes, not a true diagnostic error
3 and 6 are coupled, 3 is reaction and 6 is telling you that the MAF is not connected - no signal means calculated result is screwy(out of range). These two are kinda weird - I'm pretty sure the N18 will start and run in limp mode with a disconnected MAF (someone want to check?)
4 and 5 are also likely coupled. Either the cam position sensors are not connected/cross connected (is this possible? or is the harness too short?)) or the VANOS solenoids are not connected/not working. The ECU is complaining the cams are not responding to commands.

A seemingly remote possibility: Look at the wiring diagrams to see all of failed items share a common power supply or ground point.
A simple check is to verify that power exists in the plug (voltage will vary, key must be on). Bentley's manual has diagrams, don't know if they are available online

To the OP: Is this your first time working on a Mini?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 10:09 AM
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From: branford/ct
Originally Posted by thefarside
No disrespect to njaremka, however, I'm more inclined to assess the problem as several items not properly re-connected.

Time and again I've found Mini's DTC logic in the ECU's software to be completely screwy! Key takeaway: Don't take Mini's DTC at face value

Suggest the first thing you do is clear all codes, then run again to see which ones return.

1) - 37de - Crankcase ventilation heating, activation: Line disconnection
2) - 2c58 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction
3) - 28a1 - Air mass system, plausibility: calculated air masses in the air intake system not plausible
4) - 2d55 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), intake, cold start: not controllable / Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
5) - 2d54 - Variable camshaft timing control (VANOS), exhaust, cold start not controllable /
Fuel injector, cylinder 1, activation
6 - 277a - Hot film air mass meter, signal: Electrical fault / Combustion misfires, cylinder 4

1 is likely caused by the heater on the intake tube to the turbo because it is not connected or the wire is damaged or no power
2 is a reaction to other problems/codes, not a true diagnostic error
3 and 6 are coupled, 3 is reaction and 6 is telling you that the MAF is not connected - no signal means calculated result is screwy(out of range). These two are kinda weird - I'm pretty sure the N18 will start and run in limp mode with a disconnected MAF (someone want to check?)
4 and 5 are also likely coupled. Either the cam position sensors are not connected/cross connected (is this possible? or is the harness too short?)) or the VANOS solenoids are not connected/not working. The ECU is complaining the cams are not responding to commands.

A seemingly remote possibility: Look at the wiring diagrams to see all of failed items share a common power supply or ground point.
A simple check is to verify that power exists in the plug (voltage will vary, key must be on). Bentley's manual has diagrams, don't know if they are available online

To the OP: Is this your first time working on a Mini?
Just basic changed oil ,fuel filter ,plugs ,coil packs.it doesn’t make sense to me because plugs only fit the right sensors I checked for vacuum leaks didn’t find any my next move is take out the injectors replace the o-rings fit them and than see what happens.the problem am having before I changed the injectors car ran a little rough but started up and every 60 /70 miles engine light would kick on no power loss just engine light .mini dealership said cylinder 4 that’s when I made the decision to change it myself.I numbered every plug with number and started taking it apart,I just can see everything breaking down like that im sure lm wrong .I will check everything you said .thank you this is very helpful
 
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 01:17 PM
  #5  
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thefarside
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From: MA
Originally Posted by Mike1029
Just basic changed oil ,fuel filter ,plugs ,coil packs.it doesn’t make sense to me because plugs only fit the right sensors I checked for vacuum leaks didn’t find any my next move is take out the injectors replace the o-rings fit them and than see what happens.the problem am having before I changed the injectors car ran a little rough but started up and every 60 /70 miles engine light would kick on no power loss just engine light .mini dealership said cylinder 4 that’s when I made the decision to change it myself.I numbered every plug with number and started taking it apart,I just can see everything breaking down like that im sure lm wrong .I will check everything you said .thank you this is very helpful
Ok, good that you numbered all the connectors. Half lit engine w/o power loss means that something is amiss but not enough to reduce power. Now something is really f'ed up, since you get a shut down.

So you had issues prior to the injector swap.
Suggest you do a compression check and take pictures of the plugs, useful to know the extent of the fouling.
Next clear all codes, no telling what code was tripped before the new injectors.

What parts did Mini service replace?

Positive you achieved a good seal on the injectors during install? Leaks could explain some of the codes.
 

Last edited by thefarside; Apr 6, 2021 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2021 | 04:55 PM
  #6  
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Mike1029
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From: branford/ct
Originally Posted by thefarside
Ok, good that you numbered all the connectors. Half lit engine w/o power loss means that something is amiss but not enough to reduce power. Now something is really f'ed up, since you get a shut down.

So you had issues prior to the injector swap.
Suggest you do a compression check and take pictures of the plugs, useful to know the extent of the fouling.
Next clear all codes, no telling what code was tripped before the new injectors.

What parts did Mini service replace?

Positive you achieved a good seal on the injectors during install? Leaks could explain some of the codes.
THE ELECTRIC AUXILIARY WATER PUMP THAT COOLS THE TURBOCHARGER HAS AN ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT BOARD THAT CAN MALFUNCTION AND OVERHEAT.the car ran a little rough always had full power the engine light would kick on every 60 to 100 miles . I think you hit the jackpot I don’t think I have a good seal on the injectors .the injectors are brand new I never compressed the Teflon o-ring before installing and I installed the injectors on the fuel bar first than to the head ,I will definitely keep you posted .thank you
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 01:01 PM
  #7  
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Mike1029
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From: branford/ct
Reinstalled the injectors after installing and refitting the new teflon washers,turned the key and the car started.
cars sounds much better BUT I have miss-fire on all cylinders ,once it warns up it runs like a champ.so tried checking the plugs but I was only able to check two because when I removed the coil packs two boots were stuck on the plugs,I also noticed cylinder #4 coil pack does not Match the other three.1,2,3 are Delphi brand #4
from mini dealership no name .i don’t know if that makes a difference also they installed champion plugs.any suggestions ? lm all ears .thank you
 
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