R56 Leaking crank seal - what else should I replace
Leaking crank seal - what else should I replace
I've got a leaking crank seal, and the belt is soaked in oil so I'll be replacing that at the same time. Any advice on if there is anything else I should replace whilst I've got access?
Stay safe
Stay safe
How many miles on the engine? You'll be about half way to a timing chain job...
I would consider replacing the water pump drive wheel:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...h/11517619020/
And maybe the friction wheel:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...h/11287598833/
Check that the water pump isn't showing signs of leaking, and check the belt tensioner.
I would consider replacing the water pump drive wheel:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...h/11517619020/
And maybe the friction wheel:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2012-...h/11287598833/
Check that the water pump isn't showing signs of leaking, and check the belt tensioner.
am with NJ, you might be doing the chain and that involves the seal. If not, I would be doing a new water pump (the original is plastic and fails) and belt. You'll need some new plastic rivets for the wheel arch liner as these always break/fail on removal.
I agree with njaremka & Scudder44, but it depends on the year/mileage. Check the water pump pipe (on the back of the block). Every pipe I've removed from a 100K+ mile car has a broken pipe at the water pump connection. Surprisingly they were sealing, but when I removed the water pump, the end of the pipe falls out. Since you probably have oil all over everything, I would clean it thoroughly. Remove the tensioner and friction wheel components and clean them. They are probably coated on the back side and inside the wheels with oily residue. If you go with the timing chain change, check all the slides for any broken or chipped pieces. If they are chipped or broken, those parts are probably in the oil pan. Let the fun begin.
Bart, you have the best recommendations above. I have had to go into that side of the engine multiple times now and wish I only did it once. Water pump, friction wheel, water pipe (and thermostat housing) are all needed after about 10 years.
Not all R56 come with a plastic water pump from factory. My 2010 LCI Cooper (non-S) has the metal pump from factory.
Changing the crank pulley and seal is very easy. Removing the top two (of the three) screws of the friction wheel and threading out the water pump and pulley are much more cumbersome.
At over 8 years of age and about 35 K miles, both the water pump pulley and friction wheel of my Mini were perfectly fine and like new (both operationally and visibly). I changed them because I suspected them of creating a noise which turned out to be due to melted belt rubber that had set within the tracks of the crank pulley. The crank pulley itself was fine, all it needed was for the residue to be scraped off.
Changing the crank pulley and seal is very easy. Removing the top two (of the three) screws of the friction wheel and threading out the water pump and pulley are much more cumbersome.
At over 8 years of age and about 35 K miles, both the water pump pulley and friction wheel of my Mini were perfectly fine and like new (both operationally and visibly). I changed them because I suspected them of creating a noise which turned out to be due to melted belt rubber that had set within the tracks of the crank pulley. The crank pulley itself was fine, all it needed was for the residue to be scraped off.
Thanks for the advice guys.
I’m on furlough so while I’ve got the time, I’m going to change the timing chain and all of the above.
I’m on furlough so while I’ve got the time, I’m going to change the timing chain and all of the above.
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