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Assuming you don't have a vacuum leak via CC and plumbing, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok and considering it happened after changing the coils and plugs, they might have used the wrong plugs, wrong gap? Is the MAF failing and giving bad signal? That's as bad as a vacuum leak.
Thats the risk with these PCV CC systems...more places for leaks to happen at all those fittings etc.
Oil filter.....nah...never heard of that. Bad oil filter just wont filter much. FRAM sucks...dont ever never ever...
Plugs, coils, pressure and smoke test good. I went to town on the catch can today, improved connections, trimmed down a hose and swapped out a brittle hose. Raised the CC an inch. Codes all cylinder misfire related, and this dandy of a code in pic. Test drive was really good! Axe Murderer status. Boost was good as well. I’ll take a legit drive and see if any codes clear out. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ve never used Fram either. 💩I need to buy a six pack of the OEM filters from FCP Euro, or wherever. I wish I could find K&N for the Mini around here.
Last edited by Jeffrey Daitz; Sep 27, 2022 at 01:43 PM.
Brittle vacuum hose BAD. Some common causes of code P2177 could include...
Damaged, burnt, shorted, disconnected, or corroded wiring and/or connectors in the upstream oxygen sensor’s wiring
Vacuum system leaks that cause unmetered air to enter the engine
Defective upstream oxygen sensor
Insufficient fuel pressure, but note that this will almost certainly be indicated by an additional code along with P2177
Dirty, or contaminated MAF sensor element
Use the aftermarket MAF sensors, especially on high-end European applications
Failed or failing PCM, but note that since this is a rare event, the fault must be sought elsewhere before any control module is replaced
Vacuum lines are very new, both 02’s are brand new, not sure about fuel pressure but the sensor below the MAF (small side clip) has a tape job (in pic) and maybe I should unwrap the mystery there.
oh also, could be a dirty fuel injector, so run some TECHRON or whatever to clean out that cylinder 1 injector.
Running this through the tank. The car takes a while to idle smoothly at start. Choppy haunting starts continue. Eventually the car drives really well with boost. I made the lucky mistake of leaving the car running in the driveway for over 30 minutes. When I eventually took off it was running strong! I’m talking to my mechanic tomorrow. I’ll mention your suggestions. Thanks for hanging with me on this.
You might have a weak low pressure fuel pump. I changed mine at around 160k miles as preventive maintenance.
My high-pressure fuel pump died precipitously at about $130k miles. Both those would cause a lean condition if not working properly but I don't know if Mini would throw a code for low fuel pressure.
You might have a weak low pressure fuel pump. I changed mine at around 160k miles as preventive maintenance.
My high-pressure fuel pump died precipitously at about $130k miles. Both those would cause a lean condition if not working properly but i don't know if mini would throw a code for low fuel pressure.
The new engine I installed came with a new VANOS solenoid. Another reason to never flush an old engine....it will clog that screen. Let us know if that does the trick.
I will tell you that when the OEM PCV plastic tube on the driver's side crumbled in my hand 6 months ago the car idled violently like that. Even worse actually.
I regret not changing the electronic throttle body when I changed my engine. That's next. Even the flapper is plastic...MY GOD MAN. Why is BMW so committed to plastic?
Something I forgot to mention...always check your battery CCAs, the connections for corrosion and tension and the battery ground (take it off, clean it, clean the bolt and reinstall...a bad battery and ground can cause every imaginable electrical nightmare under the sun.
I picked up a 2010 JCW about a year ago that the previous owner had given up on and I've been going through the whole car fixing all of the issues, I have everything sorted except an "unmetered air" code that I can't seem to locate. I've done multiple smoke tests and don't see any leaks. I've read just about every post that I could find on the fault and the common theme is the pipe that goes from the passenger side PCV valve to the throttle body. My question is, is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to run both the passenger and driver side PCV lines to a 3 port catch can then back to the turbo then capping of the port on the throttle body to eliminate the pipe all together? Seems like that would eliminate the gumming up of the intake valves as well.
I picked up a 2010 JCW about a year ago that the previous owner had given up on and I've been going through the whole car fixing all of the issues, I have everything sorted except an "unmetered air" code that I can't seem to locate. I've done multiple smoke tests and don't see any leaks. I've read just about every post that I could find on the fault and the common theme is the pipe that goes from the passenger side PCV valve to the throttle body. My question is, is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to run both the passenger and driver side PCV lines to a 3 port catch can then back to the turbo then capping of the port on the throttle body to eliminate the pipe all together? Seems like that would eliminate the gumming up of the intake valves as well.
I wouldn't tie them all together. Those two circuits are designed to be separate, and operate under different conditions. Some members have plugged the port on the valve cover, and plugged the corresponding port on the manifold. I would run one catch can between the back of the valve cover and the manifold. If you want to put another catch can on the turbo side, keep them separate.
I've never seen a 3 port CC. Then again Ive never looked for one. Don't know if it will work or not. I guess since the PCV valve cover has one-way valves in it, it might work. Both PVC port dump before the throttle body yes?
But with a 2 CC set up, it's fun to see which CC is accumulating more oil...
Don't block off any PCV ports. You need to relieve crankcase pressures or you're gonna cause seals to leak. These junkers leak enough as it is. They dont need any help.
I drained my CC's this weekend. The one attached to the back of the valve cover has maybe 1 ounce of pure oil after only 500 miles. The other was bone dry. Lots of city driving.
So the one that really needs the catch can is the PCV port that connects to the intake manifold correct? Most ones that I have seen connected are the lines that go to the air intake.
For those who don't believe, this i what came out my ( N14 JCW) single catch can after 3000 miles. i am in Florida, so their is no condensation, this is oil.
Yours and every other car ever made. That's pretty standard. These French engine spit out a lot of oil for sure. My old turbo Japanese car does as well.
What oil are you using ....brand, 'model' and weight?
Originally Posted by Lex2008
I drained my CC's this weekend. The one attached to the back of the valve cover has maybe 1 ounce of pure oil after only 500 miles. The other was bone dry. Lots of city driving.
