R56 Getting so frustrated
Getting so frustrated
For anyone that has read my previous post you know how dumb I am for choosing to buy this particular Mini.
But I need help.
After the rebuild, I have driven the car about 7-8000 miles and have done a number of upgrades. Larger Intercooler, AEM Intake, Oil Catch Can, and Tuned with Programmer.
Of course my wife took the car the other day and all hell broke loose. Engine lost power went in to limp mode and started to rattle above 2000RPM. She made it home and gave me an earful. So the diagnosing started, it sounded like a rod knock. Checked Oil, no metal flakes, pulled oil filter, cut open, not a single shaving. So I dropped the pan, pump and baffle and pulled bearing caps. There was no unusual movement with any of the connecting rods, but of course the oil supply holes in the crank were mostly filled with plastic (Refer back to my post about my motor going supernova and melting the inside of the valve cover). I had ordered new bearings, so I drilled out the plastic and blew air through the crank to verify that everything was clear. Reassembled the bottom half and of course the sound was still there. While test driving, car would rattle so loud it would go into limp mode for a little bit and the rattling would go away, once the rattle was gone it would go back into regular mode, rattle like crazy then go back to limp mode.
I replaced the chain tensioner (Which I had already replaced when I bought the car), noise still there.
Detuned the car, thinking it was a Fuel/Timing issue causing the chain to go crazy. noise still there.
Pulled the valve cover and put the timing tools back on to verify that it was still timed correctly, it is.
Pulled the VANOS solenoid, tested, got 7ohms, which my internet research says is low, or correct depending on the site. (Also replaced this when I go the car) I have ordered a new just in case.
The only things left I can think of are HPFP or LPFP, if anyone has some free advice they are willing to give let me know.
Timing chain and guides were replaced on rebuild, Coil packs as well.
But I need help.
After the rebuild, I have driven the car about 7-8000 miles and have done a number of upgrades. Larger Intercooler, AEM Intake, Oil Catch Can, and Tuned with Programmer.
Of course my wife took the car the other day and all hell broke loose. Engine lost power went in to limp mode and started to rattle above 2000RPM. She made it home and gave me an earful. So the diagnosing started, it sounded like a rod knock. Checked Oil, no metal flakes, pulled oil filter, cut open, not a single shaving. So I dropped the pan, pump and baffle and pulled bearing caps. There was no unusual movement with any of the connecting rods, but of course the oil supply holes in the crank were mostly filled with plastic (Refer back to my post about my motor going supernova and melting the inside of the valve cover). I had ordered new bearings, so I drilled out the plastic and blew air through the crank to verify that everything was clear. Reassembled the bottom half and of course the sound was still there. While test driving, car would rattle so loud it would go into limp mode for a little bit and the rattling would go away, once the rattle was gone it would go back into regular mode, rattle like crazy then go back to limp mode.
I replaced the chain tensioner (Which I had already replaced when I bought the car), noise still there.
Detuned the car, thinking it was a Fuel/Timing issue causing the chain to go crazy. noise still there.
Pulled the valve cover and put the timing tools back on to verify that it was still timed correctly, it is.
Pulled the VANOS solenoid, tested, got 7ohms, which my internet research says is low, or correct depending on the site. (Also replaced this when I go the car) I have ordered a new just in case.
The only things left I can think of are HPFP or LPFP, if anyone has some free advice they are willing to give let me know.
Timing chain and guides were replaced on rebuild, Coil packs as well.
The serpentine belt is another item that when chipped would make a noise like a spun bearing. may not be the reason for the reduced power, but might be the cause for the noise. if belt is fine, check the other pulleys for chips.
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