This thread hopefully will help as a warning and maybe I will get some helpful info on this issue.

Have a 2006 MINI S. A few months ago my car developed what would become known to me as the dreaded "DEATH RATTLE" at around 70,000 miles.

After some time of research (mostly here, thanks) I knew my problem stemmed from a failed timing chain tensioner. Was I too late though?

By the time I had watched all the videos, read all the how-to's, and ordered a manual, my car had finally broken down. I was afraid to remove the valve cover expecting to see a snapped chain.

Luckily, the chain was fine and didn't appear to lose time. What had happened was, when the tensioner froze, the chain, without tension, had slapped apart the chain GUIDE rail (front rail). The bottom half of the rail slipped off its pin and fell into the engine, stalling it out and wedging itself in.

Seeing little bits of plastic in the engine, I replaced the rail, the tensioner, valve cover gasket and oil and was going to run it for a bit to wash it out and do another oil change.

The car started and ran except... NO oil pressure. The gauge was at dead 0. I turned it off immediately and am now stumped. Did the Oil Pump clog? Perhaps I need a new one?

Anyone with a similar experience?

 

This usually ..almost 100% of the time refers to the GEN2 pugot motor...
As an issue on Gen1 cars...the TRI-TECH motor with the cast-iron block, it MIGHT happen....
So just be 100% sure when you read about the issue, you are getting info about the right car and the right issue! Gen1 cars USUALLY seem to survive a timing chain issues.....
Good luck...sounds like you are on the right path...check the oil pump, filter, etc for plastic parts. Sounds like you are capable with a wrench! Good Luck!
Wish you had found us for a better reason!

 

Thanks Zippy. My feeling is that there is plastic pieces in the pump. The bottom half of that guide rail was pretty chewed up. I am wondering if there is a screen at the bottom of the intake tube to prevent debris from entering the pump or if I am overlooking something.

 

My chain tensioner failed at about the same mileage. Had the work done at a local shop. He recommended replacing the oil pump for that exact reason. I believe the pump was about $100. Chances are that is your problem. I got real lucky with mine. I put probably 500-700 miles on it before getting it to the shop.

 

Did your failed tensioner cause broken guides? How much did the shop charge or did you change the pump yourself?

 

The guides were broken with the plastic pieces all in the oil pan. Which is why he recommended doing the pump. I had a shop do all the work as I don't have a suitable work space. I know when he did it he needed a special tool to keep the timing correct. He Knows a guy at a local mini dealer who actually came up and helped him with the repair on my car. The bill for the whole job was around $1300 I think.

 

Thanks for the info. I did all the work on the top (new guide and tensioner) and decided to investigate the bottom (drop oil pan and change oil pump). The good news is that I don't have to take apart the top again. Luckily, I did not lose time as the tensioner rail/guide is fine but the remains of the forward guide is evidence that a good amount of plastic is in there still. Again, thanks.

 

Decided to drop the oil pan and found a bunch of plastic and some metal shavings. Plastic was the bottom half of the front guide and the small amount of metal I believe may be from the engine breaking in or the pump. Looking up into the engine, everything looks good and besides the guide slapping before I broke down, the engine ran sweet (always had the right amount of oil and changes at 5,000 mile intervals).

Here is a pic of the Oil Pan Pickup Tube (clogged) and another of my MINI in the service position. got this done in about 4 hours at a relaxed pace.

Going to pull the timing chain cover and change the pump and double check the timing.