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What a fight. Not only have I grown older with this project, I'm almost at the end.Not only have I pestered the entire human race to get information and individual tasks completed, but I had to download the Internet to my hard drive to collect all available information.
Valve seat height took a lucky shot from a shop in Michigan, and the step distance on the flywheel came from Mark at Falcon clutch.
Here are my 21 steps for getting the engine back in the car if anyone has anything to add and below that my break-in process for the engine. Below that are some interesting pix of what I'm doing:
Remove exhaust system and separate the pieces – there are new resonator and muffler in my office
Remove battery and have it charged – there is a new battery cover
Lower subframe and replace rear bushings, lower ball joints, hubs, Sway bar bushings, and bolts as necessary, paint rusty spots, clean and reassemble with new bolts if necessary adding new sway bar links
Fit engine to transmission after receiving balanced flywheel, check to see if I need new bolts for the transmission/engine connection
Fit up all engine peripherals – non-return valve, Vanos solenoid, fuel injectors, fuel line, fuel pump, vacuum pump, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, balancer, alternator, A/C pump, Intake manifold, vacuum tank -regulator- lines, Oil gauge fitting, all sensors, exhaust manifold, turbo w/used cartridge, aux water pump, rebuilt BOV, seal-up the oil-pan and fit with crush washer for drain plug. Clean the intake manifold before installing. Use the used cartridge for the turbo for the break-in. That would be the first 20-30 minutes of running the engine. Prepare to make the switch after that to the new cartridge.
***Make sure you have all bolts for subframe, Engine to transmission, and transmission to body mounting (self-tapping and torque-to-yield) that need replacing
Clean everything including electrical spray/lube on all connections that are difficult to replace
Before installing engine make sure you have an entry path through the firewall for the oil-pump wiring, oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge…
When all is complete install engine. Check to make sure you have new transmission mounting bolts. There is a new valve cover to install
Install axles
Fill transmission and engine with oil
Reconnect A/C and call the portable guys to make sure they can fill the A/C without running the car
Wire up the oil pump and gauges, connect all electrics
Exhaust welded and refit to car correctly
Radiator installed. – see if you can find a fitting that will allow you to drain the radiator without pulling off the hose
If you can afford it buy an ICI pipe from Arric
Install intercooler with new clean fittings
Make sure all exposed tubing and wiring are heat protected.
Replace bumper, fender liners, new front discs and pads
Replace rear discs and pads if possible and install SS brake lines in the rear
Bleed system
Breakin:
Maxima Break-in oil – prime the engine until you have oil pressure. Oli filter wet.
Run the engine for 20 minutes at varying idle speeds to set the rings.
Change the filter and top up with break-in oil and drive for 500 miles.
Change the filter again and use non-synthetic oil for 2500 miles.
Change the filter and replace oil with synthetic at 2500~.
Pix:
CP pistons and rods - lower compression + bigger turbo I guess this is what the bearings look like the bottom end with ARP bolts - It's a beautiful thing. Hope is doesn't fall apart. Looks like the head gasket is installed. Pistons are too nice to get dirty. Shame. Arric at JMTC milled in the fitting for the N18 wire connection. A close up of Arric's work. N18 pump installed N18 pump installed with the fittings. Hope it doesn't leak. Holy hell. I hope I can wire this up to work properly. We need oil pressure. This is the cylinder reinforcement. $400 + shipping. Jeffrey at CNC Werx.