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DIY idle speed increase on R56 Justamini?

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Old 04-16-2018, 08:59 AM
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DIY idle speed increase on R56 Justamini?

I have done some searching and found that others, like me, would like to have their idle speed increased from factory. My car idles at about 700 rpm when hot, sometimes as low as 650. It rattles a little which goes away by 850. Apparently you can have it bumped up with a $10K scan tool. Has anyone explored other ideas? Here are some of mine:

1. drill a small hole in the throttle plate. I think I could easily plug it with epoxy if it doesn't work. But probably not easily adjustable.

2. Drill a hole in the intake after the throttle plate.

3. Find a vacuum hose and put a Gillis or needle valve on it. In all cases

4. Make some sort of adjustable bump stop at the pedal.

5. Make the ECU think the AC is on all the time. How would I do this?

For 1,2 and 3 I think the ECU would try to restore the idle and throw a code if it couldn't.

Any other ideas?
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:12 AM
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Anyone who can do a tune for you can raise the idle speed the correct way. If you try to trick it, the computer will just fight you, and neither you nor the computer will get what you want.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:31 AM
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Anyone who can do a tune for you can raise the idle speed the correct way. If you try to trick it, the computer will just fight you, and neither you nor the computer will get what you want.
You can't always get what you want. But if you try sometimes you just might find that you get what you need.

I just looked at my pedal and I think I could make an adjustable stop for it. I wonder, however, if as you suggest, I will get an error code if the idle can never drop to what the computer wants to see.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:36 AM
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The ECU will look at the pedal and, if it is above a certain value, not go into idle speed control. What this means to you is that it will not actively target a specific speed, so the pedal will have to be set such that it idles how you want when hot, but when cold it may not be right. It also means that the idle speed won't respond to load changes and may bog or bounce up as the alternator, AC, and whatnot change their loads on the engine. You'll also see a fuel economy hit, and temps may creep up in bad traffic. If this is a worthwhile compromise, then the cons may be outweighed by the pros for you.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:06 AM
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Were are you at? Is there a shop close to you that can change the program for you? This is a service that we could provide. The idea's you can up with are not going to work correctly. it's best to do it correctly and while it might be a bit of a drive to find the right shop to do it, your going to have a much better finished product with a low cost. We are in Detroit area and will be in NC the first week of May.
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:07 AM
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^ This is what I was referring to in my first response, haha
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:58 AM
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Were are you at? Is there a shop close to you that can change the program for you? This is a service that we could provide. The idea's you can up with are not going to work correctly. it's best to do it correctly and while it might be a bit of a drive to find the right shop to do it, your going to have a much better finished product with a low cost. We are in Detroit area and will be in NC the first week of May.
I am in Sacramento. I know of a shop that specializes in Minis near here. I am loathe to take any of my cars to a shop (this 2007 is about 30 years newer than the average age of my fleet, haha), but maybe I will ask them if they can do it.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:58 AM
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The idea's you can up with are not going to work correctly.
I think my AC idea is the one most likely not to cause ECU issues. What harm would there be in the ECU thinking the AC is on all the time?
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carwhisperer View Post
I am in Sacramento. I know of a shop that specializes in Minis near here. I am loathe to take any of my cars to a shop (this 2007 is about 30 years newer than the average age of my fleet, haha), but maybe I will ask them if they can do it.
I get it, people hate to take it to any shop and always want to do it them self. but these cars require a computer to talk to them to even start to figure out what might be wrong. It's very easy to bump the idle speed up with it. just let them do it and call it a day. Do things like brakes and wheel bearings, but the computer stuff is you need to by it or let someone do it for you.
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:31 AM
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I think my AC idea is the one most likely not to cause ECU issues. What harm would there be in the ECU thinking the AC is on all the time?
Well, it might be the second least likely to cause problems. The solution that is the MOST likely to not cause problems is to change a single curve in the ECU. I'd wager that any of the tuners would sell you a discounted flash since it doesn't take any dyno tuning or proprietary knowledge. If you value the time you'd spend doing a hackjob on it, then the flash is cheaper.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:00 AM
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Well, it might be the second least likely to cause problems. The solution that is the MOST likely to not cause problems is to change a single curve in the ECU. I'd wager that any of the tuners would sell you a discounted flash since it doesn't take any dyno tuning or proprietary knowledge. If you value the time you'd spend doing a hackjob on it, then the flash is cheaper.
Here in CA shops are not too keen on doing things like this. I just called the expert shop in this area and they said they would not bump up the idle because of emissions reasons.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:07 AM
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Here in CA shops are not too keen on doing things like this. I just called the expert shop in this area and they said they would not bump up the idle because of emissions reasons.
Passing smog is a whole 'nother beast. Since the hot idle is spec'd for your car already, anything above that - through a tune or otherwise - will technically fail you if your inspector sticks to the rules.

Here's a different approach: fix the rattle instead? With your car's age, it could just be that the engine mounts are getting sloppy or something else has worn down. Fixing that could be all you need. Or, ya know, just turn up the radio
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:11 PM
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Passing smog is a whole 'nother beast. Since the hot idle is spec'd for your car already, anything above that - through a tune or otherwise - will technically fail you if your inspector sticks to the rules.

Here's a different approach: fix the rattle instead? With your car's age, it could just be that the engine mounts are getting sloppy or something else has worn down. Fixing that could be all you need. Or, ya know, just turn up the radio
Will do!

But the guy at the shop told me to try some heavier weight oil first. What do you think about that? He said 5-40 but he would go as high as 20-50 in a Motul. I was thinking I would try some 5-40. He said avoid Mobil 1. Is this a motor that needs ZDDP or Zinc?
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Old Yesterday, 01:28 PM
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This is what I came up with. I think itís function is somewhat self explanatory. But Iíll note that it installs with no tools and leaves no marks when removed. When making it I found that it needed to be pretty stiff and well anchored to provide any stable adjustment to the pedal stop. I have tried at and it works but havenít really tried it in traffic or anything to see if the idle speed behaves predictably. I also changed my oil to Castroís 10-30 synthetic, and for the brief driving Iíve done so far Iíve heard no noise. The oil I drained out felt like water


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