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R56 Couple more nube questions......

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Old 07-26-2017, 02:45 AM
sselvia
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Couple more nube questions......

So, what are a few of the must do's and must not do's to keep the Mini running well and prolong longevity, and possibly improve performance, other than of course changing the oil and filter and regular maint.

Are there some cool cheap upgrades that replace some "soon to go" stock parts? Or stock stuff that don't work so well.....without throwing a ton of money at it.

Are there some of those "upgrades" to stay away from? I like to tinker, but not throw money at dumb stuff. So far I see lots of "stuff" folks are doing, and "upgrades" offered, but I can't tell the good from the not so good. I need ideas form those that have been where I am.

I like to add inexpensive horsepower and a "smart move" when I can. I know there are tons of options. What are some that you guys have done for performance or longevity or both, that make the most since to you and why? Surely there are many of these do's and don'ts that are known to all (most)?
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 03:24 AM
Whine not Walnuts
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You are close to the mountains so the question is have you ever taken the car up there? Even in stock trim the S can handle very well and a good bang for a little money is a thicker rear sway bar (not really that hard to install as well).

If a person wants a car that is fast off the line, the Mini is not for them. If a person wants a lightweight well-handling car that can carve up twisties like a hot knife in butter, the Mini is the car for them. A friend and I did a recent Blue-Ridge Parkway tour where our group did allot of off-parkway twisties. He calls a Mini a Mountain Goat now where I am thinking more Big Horn Sheep. Cars are nimble, sure footed and a blast to drive.
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 04:02 AM
sselvia
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Originally Posted by r53coop View Post
You are close to the mountains so the question is have you ever taken the car up there? Even in stock trim the S can handle very well and a good bang for a little money is a thicker rear sway bar (not really that hard to install as well).

If a person wants a car that is fast off the line, the Mini is not for them. If a person wants a lightweight well-handling car that can carve up twisties like a hot knife in butter, the Mini is the car for them. A friend and I did a recent Blue-Ridge Parkway tour where our group did allot of off-parkway twisties. He calls a Mini a Mountain Goat now where I am thinking more Big Horn Sheep. Cars are nimble, sure footed and a blast to drive.

Yes, I did the Mountains last weekend, exactly 6 days after we bought it. I am familiar with all those North GA roads and many in NC as I've ridden them on my motorcycle for many years. We did 129 between Dahlonega and Blairsville. A bit more tame than the famous Highway 60 close by. I was impressed by the handling and power in that situation. Rear sway bar sounds like a good idea. What about some wheel spacers on the rear? Seem like that couldn't hurt unless there are known issues. And then I see talk about intercooler, and different hoses to and from the turbo, etc. and replacing the turbo hose that goes down "somewhere"...exhaust I guess?
More and cooler air seems to be in order?
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 04:21 AM
Whine not Walnuts
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Pretty sure you will get more than a few suggestions on engine mods. If you have not already done so, suggest you check out the Gen2 Mod sections.
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 04:22 AM
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If you're stock and you feel the car is good enough as is, which is the case for me, I helped her breathe a little better and bought good tires. I went with the Forge hot side muffler delete hose, That's the hose that you mentioned above that goes "somewhere", that somewhere is to the intercooler. Also concocted an intake using some parts from intakehoses.com and a K&N Apollo. For the rubber, I can recommend the Pilot Super Sports as a great tire but if you make one to many trips to the Dragon or the like, they'll only last you about a year or so, have also heard good things about Conti Pro Contacts and Direzza star specs. I focus on fluid replacements and general maintenance since the 2nd gen is a bit finicky. Next on my list is control arm bushings and about a year down the line some Swift springs, unsure of which struts I'll be using.
Here's the intake I slapped together- The M7 catch can has since been replaced with a Mishimoto can that actually works-
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:22 AM
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Ok, so now we are getting somewhere! That is an interesting looking setup.
I'm still trying to figure out this turbo plumbing stuff! So that tube going into the firewall is the fresh air intake yes? Where mine is coming from the front behind the grill on the drivers side, and another going to "somewhere under the engine from the passenger side. What's going on there? If you don't mind indulging me?
So we got fresh air in straight to the turbo, and then out to the intake, then I'm a bit lost frankly!! I'm assuming there is some excess that :"blows off" somewhere?
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by sselvia View Post
Ok, so now we are getting somewhere! That is an interesting looking setup.
I'm still trying to figure out this turbo plumbing stuff! So that tube going into the firewall is the fresh air intake yes? Where mine is coming from the front behind the grill on the drivers side, and another going to "somewhere under the engine from the passenger side. What's going on there? If you don't mind indulging me?
So we got fresh air in straight to the turbo, and then out to the intake, then I'm a bit lost frankly!! I'm assuming there is some excess that "blows off" somewhere?
" I'm assuming there is some excess that "blows off" somewhere?"
Yes right there in the front of the turbo(Forge) going downstairs to ?? And then that big hose on the left going downstairs to what? After this I think I may have it.
Mini Turbo 101
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sselvia View Post
Ok, so now we are getting somewhere! That is an interesting looking setup.
I'm still trying to figure out this turbo plumbing stuff! So that tube going into the firewall is the fresh air intake yes? Where mine is coming from the front behind the grill on the drivers side, and another going to "somewhere under the engine from the passenger side. What's going on there? If you don't mind indulging me?
So we got fresh air in straight to the turbo, and then out to the intake, then I'm a bit lost frankly!! I'm assuming there is some excess that :"blows off" somewhere?
Your turbo will pull air from your air box. The factory air box is pulling air via that 3-ish ft. tube running from the bottom of the air box to the front of the car. I simply removed all that plumbing and ran into the cowl and yes it pulls fresh air and the IAT's were reduced roughly 4-6 degrees. Higher flow and less hot tubing to run thru I assume is the reason, I was just going for easier flow, hence the hot side muffler delete. After your turbo sucks in the air it blows it into the intercooler, from the intercooler it heads to your throttle body. So all in all the engine is still the same as a regular engine (with a lower compression ratio due to the boost filling in the gap) just now you have a turbo using exhaust gas to spin a turbine and force feed your engine with air. If you get a chance some weekend pop open the hood and take a gander. You'll see that your factory hot side tube, the tube leaving the turbo and heading down, has a plastic "muffler" to quiet engine/turbo noise. I took out that muffler and replaced the whole tube with a Forge silicone version. Better performance? Nothing measurable, but I'm pretty sure the throttle felt smoother and the turbo noise, though still kinda quiet, was more noticeable. The intake I installed lets me hear all the great turbo noises
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:49 AM
sselvia
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Yes, thanks, good stuff. I've been looking at my engine almost everyday for a week now, and just now am getting somewhere.

I was not clear on the exhaust role until now. ("hot side muffler delete") is the Forge tube you put in and it's excess air? , or input form the exhaust? must be input to spin the turbine right? Or where IS that input hose?

So the intercooler role is to "cool" the air before it enters the engine...better combustion!

I have not really looked at the intake to see what's feeding it. But it's coming from the intercooler yes?

So what's the big tube on the left going downstairs doing?
Thanks for the lesson
 

Last edited by sselvia; 07-26-2017 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by sselvia View Post
Yes, thanks, good stuff. I've been looking at my engine almost everyday for a week now, and just now am getting somewhere.

I was not clear on the exhaust role until now. ("hot side muffler delete") is the Forge tube you put in and it's excess air? , or input form the exhaust? must be input to spin the turbine right? Or where IS that input hose?

So the intercooler role is to "cool" the air before it enters the engine...better combustion!

I have not really looked at the intake to see what's feeding it. But it's coming from the intercooler yes?

So what's the big tube on the left going downstairs doing?
Thanks for the lesson
The turbo compresses the air coming in from the intake. That air get's hot once compressed, leaves the turbo and heads down to the intercooler to be cooled before being pushed into your throttle body and intake manifold. There's no excess air, the Forge tube that heads down the the intercooler is simply there because the air will flow smoother/easier than the stock setup into the intercooler. As for the exhaust, the exhaust gasses flow into the turbine and the more load the engine is under the more the gasses will spin the turbine and in turn spinning the compressor. If you've not had any forced induction engines there's several videos that can explain how they work on YouTube. It seems complicated at first, once you watch a video it'll all make sense and it will help you understand your new boosted engine a little better. Here's a good one:
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:23 AM
sselvia
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Yes, It's much clearer now! Thanks for the insight. I believe after a few more minutes of looking at my car, I will have it all mapped out. Right now I'm still puzzled by that large hose on the left in your pic. I was looking at that the other day and it appeared to be getting fresh air and taking it somewhere behind the engine. Don;t seem like that is part of the system I just watched? But I'm sure it's there for a reason.

Thank you again, maybe we have coffee one day and talk Mini's n stuff. My wife and I are mid-late 50's and enjoy riding to lunch and like minded individuals. If that's of interest you can reach out. If not no worries...You may be in a different place in life.
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:27 AM
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That one on the left is the continuation of the tube coming from the intercooler to the throttle body. The Forge one on the right is going into the intercooler, that big'n on the left is cominf FROM the intercooler to the throttle body. I'm totally down for some food and MINI stuff I don't drink coffee, look forward to running into you in ATL sometime.
 
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:14 AM
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As mentioned above, improving the engine "breathing" will be a big improvement. One more not mentioned yet is changing the hard plastic pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body, located next to the passenger side wheel well. Notice the bends and contours it has. JMTC makes a 2 ¼" dia aluminum "ICI Pipe" that replaces it. Check out their web site --- http://jmtcperformance.com/mini-cooper-ici-pipe/ and notice they show a dyno chart with HP gains. I've just installed one and noticed an improvement on the "butt dyno". My next real dyno will be later today, but it won't show any gains associated with this pipe, 'cause there were other changes made at the same time.

One disadvantage to this pipe --- there's solid contact between the engine and chassis frame --- noise / vibration transfer that's noticeable inside the cabin. Not terrible, but I'm kinda biased --- I'm building for max power, so a little more "discomfort" is acceptable. It's possible that a silicon / rubber insulator installed between the pipe and frame will lessen the transfer --- I'll try that next time its apart.

Another "breathing" improvement would be a larger exhaust. Costly and not necessary as a "must do" for reliability, but it will improve performance and the way your car sounds --- more of a "personalized" mod. Maybe when your catalytic converter wears out.

For handling, the rear sway bar, coil-overs, and real non-run-flat tires, are all highly recommended as starters for the improvement game. Maybe wait 'til the original tires and shocks wear out, to ease the cost burden.

One more thought --- if improved breathing isn't enough, go for a tune. Even a stock Mini will get significant improvement --- HP and throttle response. My personal choice is Manic, but there's others out there. Find one and talk with him --- maybe Way?

Take the mod game slow and learn more about your Mini --- wants and desires change!
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:42 AM
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Keep driving the car and see what you think needs improvement. Way has a great reputation, I would start a relationship with his shop.

One nice thing about installing an aftermarket rear sway bar is that they are adjustable. I'm running the H-Sport 25 mm bar in the middle position (there are 3). You can adjust the settings to match your preference, but it makes the car feel lighter when turning (more responsive). It's a good first mod.

Lots of good threads on here, get a lemonade and start reading. You fan get really deep into mods if you want.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 08:36 AM
sselvia
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Yes, thanks you guys for jumping in. I appreciate all suggestions. I have been looking and reading a lot. "Knowledge is power". I do like the breathing better and cooling better ideas. I understand that more air in/out combined with appropriate fuel makes the horsepower. It's really not so much all about power to me. It's longevity with those mods.. and the "right" mods that i want also. All these ideas in steps don't sound so expensive. The sway bar is on my list also. I'n not planning to mod it to the max....ever, but I wanted to know some important ones particularly for the longevity and if things get more efficient/power that's a good thing. I'm sure there are some fairly crappy "stuff" about the engine area, and others that folks will say "replace this with this ASAP". Those sort of things I'm looking for as much as anything. Again, longevity! As trouble free as possible.

I see all sort of intake options. Is there rally a need for that, or are there other first choices like various hoses in the turbo chain, different intercooler, that should be first. I know all these will work together, but again I'd like to do them in appropiate steps. Seems to me more air in, but not out is not so helpful as more efficient air flow throughout?
OK....so I've rambled.....thanks again to you all. I'm all ears. Keep em coming.
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:08 AM
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The MINI does pretty well with stock intake and exhaust bits. Don't expect more than a handful of hp with any individual change or upgrade. A tune can bring changes together for more significant gains.

Keep an eye out for leaks. The thermostat housing will eventually leak, and turbo oil lines, water pumps, and valve covers can also leak over time. None are truly fatal flaws that need to be addressed immediately.

Learn to read the dipstick. Some engines use oil. It sounds silly, but the dipstick is hard to get an accurate measurement.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:15 AM
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I haven't put an aftermarket fresh air intake on my car because in researching them, I found that they do not add horsepower, as advertised and they are much noisier than the well engineered stock fresh air intake, I am all about keeping things quiet. For that reason I also decided against the hot side muffler delete. The stock hot side muffler does not restrict the airflow as it is well engineered. I also decided against an aftermarket rear sway bar, in stock form my MINI can already go around corners faster than I can drive and I am no slouch in that area.

Things I have done include a Helix step core intercooler.

http://store.helix13.com/helix-2nd-g...e-intercooler/

The stock intercooler is too small and becomes heat soaked in hot weather, lowering the density of the charge air and reducing horsepower.

A Way Motor Works turbo wrap.

https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-tu...at-shield.html

This keeps the heat in the hot side of the turbocharger, improving turbocharger efficiency and reducing under hood temperatures by 20F or more. This will also prevent the heat from the turbocharger from melting your hood scoop and keep the turbocharger oil lines from being cooked.

I also added Marshall gauges around the tachometer,

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/c...per_gauges.cfm

They match the style of the stock tachometer and speedometer.

I installed a boost/vacuum gauge, water temperature, oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. I like to keep track of my engine vitals. If I had to do it again I wouldn't install the oil temperature gauge as it is always within ten degrees of the water temperature.

I also have an Cobb Tuning/Alta Accessport which includes a MINI specific code reader. This will not work on your N18 engine as they changed the engine control unit so that it cannot be easily reprogrammed like on my N14 engine, but you should get a BMW specific engine code reader as a generic code reader will not read all of your MINI's error codes.

I've heard good things about this one,

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...iABEgIUa_D_BwE

There are other ones available also.

Finally, you really need a Bentley Manual, If you are going to wrench on your MINI yourself, accept no substitutes.

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/min...2007-2013.html
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:43 AM
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Get a 19mm to 21mm rear ASB for sure. My 19mm by Way Motor Works cost me $300 installed in 2008. I just did a Stage 1 ECU tune on my 2014 JCW and the performance improvement is amazing even on a pretty fast car. Cost me $500. Well worth it. It also improved the exhaust sound. There are clip on boxes you can install yourself (JB+) that are slightly cheaper but the true ECU tune is what you really want. Mine is in my sig. Took the dude about 2 hrs that included updating the firmware.
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:44 PM
sselvia
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Originally Posted by TheBigNewt View Post
Get a 19mm to 21mm rear ASB for sure. My 19mm by Way Motor Works cost me $300 installed in 2008. I just did a Stage 1 ECU tune on my 2014 JCW and the performance improvement is amazing even on a pretty fast car. Cost me $500. Well worth it. It also improved the exhaust sound. There are clip on boxes you can install yourself (JB+) that are slightly cheaper but the true ECU tune is what you really want. Mine is in my sig. Took the dude about 2 hrs that included updating the firmware.


So other than the stage 1, your car is stock engine wise correct? I know the JCW has some upgraded bits attached for more power. What are those in comparison to the S?.


The Stage 1 is the one from Manic I suppose? Sounds like the good stuff from what I can gather.


I did notice on my latest (and first) twisty road go fast, that the understeer was going on. I suspect the larger (stiffer) sway bar will help this yes? It also felt like the front could stand some stiffer springs. Perhaps some of that was my over half worn factory Continentals?
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 06:06 PM
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For bang for the buck affordable mods I for sure would start with the powerflex lower engine large bushing insert as it makes a huge difference and is less than $40
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...unt-large.html

And for HP go with an ECU tune
https://www.waymotorworks.com/perfor...-cooper-s.html

Also our IC muffler delete pipe is the most cost effective and best fitting option to eliminate the res in the hose
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-re...7-r58-r59.html

We are also local in Atlanta and keep it all in stock for you.
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:43 PM
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Thanks......I'm gonna come see you pretty soon!
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:48 PM
sselvia
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Engine Mount Busings

Are those pretty easy to install? Maybe support the motor with a jack, unbolt them insert the bushing and replace? I will look it all over tomorrow and get a better idea.

Think I could do this no sweat...I mean lots of sweat....in my sweltering basement??

Thanks for jumping in.
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 11:39 PM
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Powerflex lower engine bushing insert is easy but you need to get under the car so a set of ramps or jack stands is required.

Fatter rear sway bar is a bit more involved but also an easy DIY and great bang for the buck.

Take it slow with the mods - read, research, plan, then execute, and enjoy every step of the way. Don't try to get it all done at once.
 
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Old 07-29-2017, 10:19 PM
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One thing at a time. Go for the yellow insert. I tried the black, too much vibration. Then went with the JB+. Quickly discovered understeer, went with an adjustable 19mm rear bar. Then on and on....it's addictive! The best thing about MINI's is their tunability. It can also be the worst thing if you go too far, or add too many mods at once. It is a step-by-step process, with YOU deciding if that mod made it better or worse. I say keep it simple at first. Go for handling, then power. The JB+ is awesome, but you will soon want a true tune. That's where I am right now. Saving up the cash for that Manic Tune.
 
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Old 07-30-2017, 04:08 PM
sselvia
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks View Post
For bang for the buck affordable mods I for sure would start with the powerflex lower engine large bushing insert as it makes a huge difference and is less than $40
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...unt-large.html

And for HP go with an ECU tune
https://www.waymotorworks.com/perfor...-cooper-s.html

Also our IC muffler delete pipe is the most cost effective and best fitting option to eliminate the res in the hose
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-re...7-r58-r59.html

We are also local in Atlanta and keep it all in stock for you.

Way.....thanks for all your help Friday. I enjoyed our chat. You guys got a good thing going there. I'm sure you'll see more of me.
Thank you both again....appreciate all the great info.
 

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