R56 Blue smoke from tail pipe
#1
Blue smoke from tail pipe
Hello everyone,
I got 2007 MCS
engine mods are: catless downpipe, K&N intake and custom ecu tune.
right after the tune i was running 20psi no problem, now six months down the line I notice im only getting a maximum of 10 psi. and soon after, i noticed blue smoke from my tail pipe.
At idle its not noticeable,
but when ever I rev match to down shift i could see it in the rear view mirror.
I also see the blue smoke if it put it in neutral and rev the engine.
does anyone have this similar issue?
I got 2007 MCS
engine mods are: catless downpipe, K&N intake and custom ecu tune.
right after the tune i was running 20psi no problem, now six months down the line I notice im only getting a maximum of 10 psi. and soon after, i noticed blue smoke from my tail pipe.
At idle its not noticeable,
but when ever I rev match to down shift i could see it in the rear view mirror.
I also see the blue smoke if it put it in neutral and rev the engine.
does anyone have this similar issue?
#2
#3
I never drive 20psi everyday, I only got 20psi at high rpms in 4th gear when I drove hard occasionally.
#6
I also have the same set up and run 20 psi. I just finished a complete engine rebuild due to a failed piston. The rings in the stock MCS engine are low tension and subject to blow by. The stock PCV system pushes oil directly into the combustion chamber and causes build up and also knocking. So begin with a compression test and leak down to check the health of your engine. Follow that up with a walnut blast cleaning of the intake valves. Remove and clean your entire intake system including all hoses and intercooler. While the intake is our clean it and the throttle body. If you want to invest in your engine rebuild it with a quality piston such as CP and have the head rebuilt by a machine shop. If you do the rebuild yourself you can keep costs down. Best of luck.
#7
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#8
I also have the same set up and run 20 psi. I just finished a complete engine rebuild due to a failed piston. The rings in the stock MCS engine are low tension and subject to blow by. The stock PCV system pushes oil directly into the combustion chamber and causes build up and also knocking. So begin with a compression test and leak down to check the health of your engine. Follow that up with a walnut blast cleaning of the intake valves. Remove and clean your entire intake system including all hoses and intercooler. While the intake is our clean it and the throttle body. If you want to invest in your engine rebuild it with a quality piston such as CP and have the head rebuilt by a machine shop. If you do the rebuild yourself you can keep costs down. Best of luck.
if the compression test is bad, I will have to take of the head.
#9
Post what you find out from your compression check / leak down test as I know a local MINI driver having the same issues. Pretty much the same set up with a tune and catless, lower than normal boost with blue smoke.
Their compression / leak down test did not find any issues as the numbers were well within spec.
They are guessing a turbo replacement or valve seals or valve guides.
Their closest dealer could not tell them to what was wrong as there was no fault codes. The dealer said if it was the turbo, they would be throwing codes.
The dealer said they would be throwing money at it until it actually failed.
Their compression / leak down test did not find any issues as the numbers were well within spec.
They are guessing a turbo replacement or valve seals or valve guides.
Their closest dealer could not tell them to what was wrong as there was no fault codes. The dealer said if it was the turbo, they would be throwing codes.
The dealer said they would be throwing money at it until it actually failed.
#10
Post what you find out from your compression check / leak down test as I know a local MINI driver having the same issues. Pretty much the same set up with a tune and catless, lower than normal boost with blue smoke.
Their compression / leak down test did not find any issues as the numbers were well within spec.
They are guessing a turbo replacement or valve seals or valve guides.
Their closest dealer could not tell them to what was wrong as there was no fault codes. The dealer said if it was the turbo, they would be throwing codes.
The dealer said they would be throwing money at it until it actually failed.
Their compression / leak down test did not find any issues as the numbers were well within spec.
They are guessing a turbo replacement or valve seals or valve guides.
Their closest dealer could not tell them to what was wrong as there was no fault codes. The dealer said if it was the turbo, they would be throwing codes.
The dealer said they would be throwing money at it until it actually failed.
Yes I will post my numbers as soon as I get the test done.
I notice a pattern on how my car spits the blue smoke. It seems as if the blue smoke comes after driving the car hard for a while.
for example: I never get the blue smoke after 15 mins of driving no matter how hard I drive within that 15 mins, but after driving hard for around 25mins I notice the blue smoke when ever I rev the engine.
#11
Yes I will post my numbers as soon as I get the test done.
I notice a pattern on how my car spits the blue smoke. It seems as if the blue smoke comes after driving the car hard for a while.
for example: I never get the blue smoke after 15 mins of driving no matter how hard I drive within that 15 mins, but after driving hard for around 25mins I notice the blue smoke when ever I rev the engine.
I notice a pattern on how my car spits the blue smoke. It seems as if the blue smoke comes after driving the car hard for a while.
for example: I never get the blue smoke after 15 mins of driving no matter how hard I drive within that 15 mins, but after driving hard for around 25mins I notice the blue smoke when ever I rev the engine.
Cyl#1 = 170psi
Cyl#2 = 165psi
Cyl#3 = 65psi
Cyl#4 = 170psi