I've gotten word that a tiny dealership in the next town over has a 2008 MCS (I think. It might be 2006 which means I'm in the wrong area). My buddy said it had all the options but needed the thermostat housing replaced. I'm pretty sure I could tackle this repair myself so my question... Assuming the rest of the car is in good shape (88K miles) what would it be worth? I believe they were asking $5500. To me a reasonable offer would be what a part-out would yeild since I can't really evaluate the condition of the car since I can't drive it.

 

Why can't you drive it?

 

Well, I'm not going to risk over heating it if its gushing coolant. It may not be that bad. I'm working on worst case scenarios and will know more tonight. I'm going to stop on my way home from work.

 

Mine leaked, usually it should be fine to drive. Depends on how much it's leaking. Could probably top the coolant off and drive it. If it's a dealer they should have no issue changing it so you can test drive it, if not I wouldn't buy anything from them.

 

There can be a lot wrong there. No warranty? No test drive? Unless you can get it for peanuts, I'd be extremely wary.

 

Just had mine replaced. It was like $600 It was the sensor that went bad. Should be fine for a quick test drive to make sure everything is in order. Just don't dog it and make sure it's coolant is full.

 

That was my goal. If they want retail for it I'm going to walk away.

I will own one of these cars and I saw this as a possible way to get into the game ahead of my budget's schedule. Otherwise I'm another year out which isn't a bid deal... I just want to zip around corners before then. haha

 

Can you get the Vin and run a CarFax on it? And then run that VIN through the VIN decoder and you can see what it shipped with. There was a $10-$15K difference from base stock to fully loaded for that year.
You should also run the number through NADA and Edmunds once you find out what is on it for options. $5500.00 seems a little low to me, but it could be wishful thinking on my part because I have a 2009 MCS.

The only way that I would buy it, is if they took the key Fob to a local BMW/Mini dealer and had the service history read and got a printout. You really want to know the service history. They would also have to understand that I would be taking it to a MINI dealer to get it checked out, prior to final purchase. You really want to find out as much as you can.

That thermostat job isn't particularly difficult, but there are a few interferences that have to be removed to get at it. Something to consider.

Could you part it out, and recoup $5500? eventually, but it won't happen quick. This is assuming that engine and transmission are working properly,and could be removed, and shipped, if necessary.

It's worth at least looking at in my opinion.

 

That's not a bad price most likely. My dealer gave me $7,500 in trade on my 2007 MCS 2 years ago in good shape needing rear brakes. It cost $30k in 2007.

 

The difference in value, and desirability, can be a lot different between an '08 vs '06. Any confirmation on what year it actually is?

 

Good info. Thanks guys.

I have not verified the year yet. I'll know in a few hours. I really wanted 2011-2014 to avoid the timing chain issue I read about but... Money talks. My gut feeling says tomorrow I'll still be searching for the perfect one.

 

Go with your gut! If you have been saving for one this long don't just break down now and get one because it is cheap. It would be a shame for you to end up with something that you are not satisfied with and would not do justice for the fun factor of these cars.

If it is an 08 check for oil leaking around the turbo when you are inspecting. If you are still seriously considering it then you should be able to take it for a test drive.

 

As was said above, unless you get it for a really low price, I'd use caution, especially if it's a 2008 MINI Cooper S (MCS)...in which you would have the risk of buying car an oil consumption problem, like my 2008 MCS had. The timing chain is another concern on the 2008 MCS.

If the price is super low...then it may be worth it.
Good luck to you!

 

One approach-

Assuming that the "tiny dealership" is not a MINI dealer, then they are counting on finding someone who will either fix it themselves (a shade tree mechanic) or someone who doesn't know MINI's but wants a "sporty" car bad enough to take a chance on a relatively expensive car with a mechanical problem. There aren't many people in either of these categories so the car may sit for awhile. Since you are not in a rush and you're not enchanted by this particular car, time is on your side. If/when you talk to the dealer, be ready to express the worst possible scenario regarding the the thermostat and all other issues like the timing chain, the expensive HPFP that it probably needs at 88k, unknown oil change interval history, turbo oil line leaking, leaking oil cooler seals, etc. etc. You can express that you're looking for the right car, and that you're not sure about this one....

Just some thoughts on a possible approach....

 

Thanks for the replies. I didn't actually go look at the car yet due to, well, life I guess. I found the ad online so I have a bit more info. It's a '07 and has 107,000 miles. Description says it has a new "water pump kit" and an oil change so it's been repaired already. They're asking $6,000 for it. Seems ok but the miles make me wonder about the clutch.

What is HPFP?

I wish I could have forked over the cash and bought the one I found a month ago. It was dark blue, white interior (really cool IMO) and every option. It only had 41K miles and was '12 but they wanted $15,500 for it which I couldn't quite do.

 

Sorry. HPFP = High Pressure Fuel Pump. There are two fuel pumps, one under the back seats and one under the hood. The HPFP is the one under the hood. MINI extended the warranty for the HPFP to 120,000 miles. Mine didn't go out before then, unfortunately.

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I googled it and came up with fuel pump so I was close. haha

 

Is there anything specific I should look at for the 2007 model year?

 

The biggest thing about 2007 is to avoid the 2007 MINI Cooper S...too many probs...it was the worst year for the N14 engine. The base model is okay

 

Agreed. 2006 or older for the Cooper S Model. Base model any year. 2011 or newer for the rest, though I know some with the 2010 R55 and R56 have not had problems.

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Good to know. Thanks.