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Hey there everyone, I was looking for some help from this fantastic community regarding a 2010 MCS R56 Hardtop. Recently purchased the vehicle in June 2015. Its a FL car that made its way up to IL, so it hasn't had a rough life. Purchased at 45K (Miles) currently at 50K. After about 2 months the Timing Chain did get replaced, as was a serpentine belt, wheel hub(don't get me started on that), and so was the clutch. Everything else has been great, 1st gear is a ***** notchy(not sure if that's supposed to be that way), but soon after the chain was replaced I started getting this ticking sound, as well as what to me sounds like the timing chain again? My mechanic is telling me both sounds are related to a part called the Friction Wheel? Now I have located the piece and I also purchased the Bently Publishing Service Manual so I could fix some things myself. My question is am I being taken for a ride here? I have a video for you to listen to as both sounds are easy to hear. Is it the timing chain again? Does the friction wheel sound like the culprit? I plan on doing Mini's on the dragon or Mini takes the states this year, so I want to make sure my wonderful Mini is in top shape before traveling 5K miles across the USA. Thanks so much for your help! (Video Below)
Sounds like a direct injection engine. Which is normal.
The friction wheel is between the crank pulley and waterpump wheel. Fuel pump is on the other end of the engine and not related at all.
If you in fact do need the friction wheel we have them in stock and ready to ship, it is recommended to replace the water pump wheel in conjunction with the friction wheel, but not 100% necessary.
So the knocking and the clicking sounds are normal? It never made the knocking sounds as loud as they have been, nor was the clicking present. I'd be willing to replace the part, how difficult is the job to get to the friction wheel and water pump wheel? The dealer is making to much money off of me already and I'd rather invest the time than the money in labor. Thanks for the reply!
friction wheel , itw on the side of the engine and you can here it through the wheel well on the passenger side as well as any water pump noise. Ticking on top is the direct inject.
I would check the belt and the tensioner for belt. And that friction wheel: 11287598833
So the knocking and the clicking sounds are normal? It never made the knocking sounds as loud as they have been, nor was the clicking present. I'd be willing to replace the part, how difficult is the job to get to the friction wheel and water pump wheel? The dealer is making to much money off of me already and I'd rather invest the time than the money in labor. Thanks for the reply!
The water pump wheel is quite easy to do, the friction wheel however is easiest done by removing the charge piping on the passenger side of the engine, jacking the engine up and removing the bolts that hold the friction wheel to the engine, letting the engine down a bit to slide the assembly out the bottom and reinstall new one in the reverse order.
The clatter is normal, it didn't sound like "death rattle", just the nature of how a direct injection fuel system works will produce a clatter. Much like a Diesel.
@ECS Tuning The serpentine belt is not even 5K on it yet since they just replaced it, so I would think that's not the issue here, the tensioner is a possibility since they were repairing things over there. Yea it sounds like friction wheel is my likely culprit for the clattering/thumping sound. So you think the clicking up at the top could be the injection system? huh. Well damit (lol). I'll have to look up that repair as well, whats the difficulty on that? Thanks
The fuel system will always clatter, they refined the tuning on the N18 cars and the clatter was quieter, but it will always be there.
I've never seen a belt tensioner fail, I've seen water pump wheels crack and develop what looks like a dry lake bed effect to them, and I've seen friction wheels become worn enough that they have a knocking clattery sound.
The belt may only have 5k miles on it, but if road debris was able to get in the belt drive system and damage the belt it could also cause a "thumping" as the damaged part passed over a pulley.
Friction wheel is linked above and the DIY for the water pump is here : which shows some of the friction wheel , comes out with a couple bolts, not too hard.
The fuel system will always clatter, they refined the tuning on the N18 cars and the clatter was quieter, but it will always be there.
I've never seen a belt tensioner fail, I've seen water pump wheels crack and develop what looks like a dry lake bed effect to them, and I've seen friction wheels become worn enough that they have a knocking clattery sound.
The belt may only have 5k miles on it, but if road debris was able to get in the belt drive system and damage the belt it could also cause a "thumping" as the damaged part passed over a pulley.
Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Ok,
Friction wheel is linked above and the DIY for the water pump is here : which shows some of the friction wheel , comes out with a couple bolts, not too hard.
Thank you guys so much for the advice. I'll have to take a look at the belt then, really appreciate all the help. Are there any specialty tools needed? Also any recommendations for Mini specialists in the Chicago area if you know any.
So the knocking and the clicking sounds are normal? It never made the knocking sounds as loud as they have been, nor was the clicking present. I'd be willing to replace the part, how difficult is the job to get to the friction wheel and water pump wheel? The dealer is making to much money off of me already and I'd rather invest the time than the money in labor. Thanks for the reply!
The belt is tensioned by a strong tensioner and does not need periodic adjustment. But they will, over time and due to heat, cold and the rigors of operating multiple pulleys, develop signs of wear: cracks, fraying, glazing or missing chunks. In addition, the tensioner and its pulley may develop defects. Bearings in these pulleys are lifetime lubricated. The lubrication eventually dries up or wears out and may cause noises. If a pulley bearing deteriorates, it can tilt and allow the belt to fly off the pulleys. If it seizes it can damage the belt quite quickly due to excessive friction. The friction wheel (green arrow) is mounted between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley. It is spring loaded to apply tension between the two pulleys in order to drive the water pump. It is driven by the drive belt (red arrow) at the crankshaft pulley. We have a Friction Wheel Replacement on our website under "tech info" that can help you save money so that you aren't having to get the repair done at the dealership. Friction wheel HERE if needed.
The light clicking you here is the fuel injectors for the direct injection. I didn't hear the death clatter in that video. Did they replace all the timing parts when they did the chain i.e. the tensioner and plastic bridges, sorry cant remember the name for those pieces right this second.
The light clicking you here is the fuel injectors for the direct injection. I didn't hear the death clatter in that video. Did they replace all the timing parts when they did the chain i.e. the tensioner and plastic bridges, sorry cant remember the name for those pieces right this second.
Its just odd because I never remembered hearing it before, but I'm sure you guys are right. You know that's a good question, I really don't know, I would assume so since it was done under warranty that they would have.
Everyone else thank you so much for the help and taking the time to explain and provide some source links. It sounds like nothing right now is at risk of causing damage or failing(which is my concern). My uncle has a lift in his garage that he uses for his formula cars that I'll be using to do some work come spring(maintenance). I bought the Bentley Publishing manual for my car so I'm hoping to get it all ready for Mini Takes the States and Minis on the Dragon. This was my first post here so your help is very much appreciated.
You are welcome. Yea MTTS is coming up this summer. Great you have a mechanic and a lift. Get a print out what was replaced or your invoice and keep that list for reference
The timing kit looks like this they most likely replaced. N14 R56 Cooper S
01-18-2016, 09:47 AM
