R56 Typical Oil Leaks
Typical Oil Leaks
I was reading a thread below noting absurd dealer costs associated with oil leak problems. I like to be as proactive as possible and would like to address a problem before it happens as opposed to after. I know the R56's are oil leak prone so my question is:
Where do the most common oil leaks originate from and what parts are responsible?
Where do the most common oil leaks originate from and what parts are responsible?
There are at least three that are often written up ---
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
There are at least three that are often written up ---
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
It could have just as well been oil leaking, the outcome would have been much worse!
If it ain't leaking don't fix it. I see no financial benefit to fixing what isn't leaking. Once it starts seeping than you can attack it. My last leaking car was a 98 BMW, dealer wanted $1300 and indy mechanic did it for $500. I could have done it for a lot less if I had the time and tools at the time.
I know what you mean, it sounds silly to change parts that aren't broken. As time passes, my plans are to make this a track car. That will include significant modification and therefore, more prone to things going wrong. I am just trying to be as proactive as possible to keep the car functioning as well as possible.
There is a bunch of labor involved when changing the turbo oil lines or the oil filter housing gaskets. If either one of these are leaking, replace both at the same time. Go with an aftermarket turbo oil line, the factory replacements will still leak over time.
Have fun,
Mike
Have fun,
Mike
There are at least three that are often written up ---
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
-valve cover - when replacing, requires extra silicone sealant on curvatures (driver side)
-timing chain tensioner works loose
-turbo oil inlet hose gets brittle and deteriorates
Then there's always workmanship issues when changing oil and oil filter.
There's probably others, but I haven't had them.
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We have the turbo oil line replacement in our turbocharger replacement DIY here that may be helpful to you when you go to tackle that job.
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