The CP pistons shaped like the OEM pistons are 7 times stronger than the OEM pistons.

 

CP is the brand correct? How do they compare to Mahle or RMW?

"7 times stronger" seems like a step in the right direction

 

I can say that the CP brand uses the strongest type of aluminum alloy. The aluminum alloy expands at a slower rate than the cylinder walls which is why there's some piston slapping associated at cold start-up with CP pistons. The Mahle pistons expand a bit faster but aren't as strong, there's a compromise between expansion and durability. The question you need to ask yourself is what do you need for your application, are you tracking, racing or just want stronger internals for high level tunes.

 

Yeah I guess the application goal is stronger internals for higher level tunes, with reliability. I haven't tracked the car, but plan to if I can get it back in good working order. Doubtful I'll be racing it.

Thanks for all the advice and sorry if I've detoured this thread slightly.

 

Here is where you need to go! OEM Stock vs CP Pistons. Pictures missing though.

 

Awesome I'll read through that thread. Thanks!

 

I really need to find the answer to this and am in the Chicago area too. I had 13 days of warranty left and am exhibiting the same symptoms at 3000 - 3500 rpm with studdering. I'd really like to know what the problem was and what the final solution was Centium. Please help! This forum is great when the thread goes full circle and loops to an answer.

 

Wow... I don't even remember making this thread, but I know what the solution was.

Pepper had a lot of issues with ignotion coils and plugs before I traded her in for my 2014 R60S. The problem in this case was a bad coil that was only functioning under light load. It hadn't failed completely like the other 6 I had to replace.

Where in Chicago are you located? I might have a couple good coils left that you could use for testing. If that's the issue, you can have them. I live in Des Plaines...

 

Thank you,

I live in Chicago but work in Libertyville and Huntley. I have a 2014 R60 that's studdering. They just replaced two of the coils I think. They called it a wireing harness which is the same thing right? Will they fit my R60? Where do you get you work done? I am exploring options for an extended warranty through Mini because I want to keep the car for another 50,000 miles. I didn't realize that these cars were not trouble free for even 50,000 miles. I love driving it though and love the mini. I am excited about the 2017 countryman coming in too. I'll private message you my contact and text you or call. Thank you. You sound happy with your dealer and mechanic. I'd be up for your suggestions.

 

They just replaced two of the coils I think. They called it a wireing harness which is the same thing right?
No. They are not the same thing.

This is an ignition coil...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1405

This is the ignition wiring harness...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1399

Will they fit my R60?
The R56S and R60S both have the same N18 engine. The coils are the same and can be swapped without any issues.[/QUOTE]

 

To Getto Mr BOB
RE: HPFT Warranty free replace

Earlier a member wrote the HPFP warranty is only for 2010 and earlier vehicles, excluding 2011. Here is the exact range of vehicles. Basically produces to 2/29/2012. Hope this helps you.

11/24/2016 MITCHELL 1 ARTICLE - N18 ENGINE HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP (HDP): LIMITED WARRANTY EXTENSION TO 10 YEARS/120,000 MILES ...


http://w .eautorepair.net/app/PrintItems.asp?S0=2113536&S1=134217728&SG=%7B8A38C D53%2D97CB%2D4FAA%2D9CB1%2DE2237659BBF8%7D&YR=... 1/5



Back To Article
N18 ENGINE HIGH*PRESSURE FUEL PUMP (HDP): LIMITED WARRANTY EXTENSION TO 10 YEARS/120,000 MILES
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN


Reference Number(s): SI M01 01 16, Date of Issue: July 2016
R55 (Cooper S Clubman) Model Years 2011 and 2012 produced from 05/11/2010 to 02/29/2012; R56 (Cooper S) Model Years 2011 and 2012 produced from 07/23/2010 to 02/29/2012; R57 (Cooper S Convertible) Model Years 2011 and 2012 produced from 03/23/2010 to 02/29/2012; R58 (Cooper S Coupe) Model Year 2012 produced from 03/22/2011 to 02/29/2012; R59 (Cooper S Roadster) Model Year 2012 produced from 07/05/2011 to 02/29/2012; R60 (Cooper S Countryman, Cooper S Countryman ALL4) Model Years 2011 and 2012 produced from 06/15/2010 to 02/29/2012; With the N18 engine
GROUP: Warranties
Superceded Bulletin(s): SI M01 01 16, Date of Issue: March 2016

 

My HPFP was replaced in 2014 on my 2007 R56. A week later, the new one failed and it had to be replaced again. That was under warranty. 3 years later and it has failed again - no warranty this time as I have 123k miles. They wouldn't warranty the new HPFP for an additional 10 years.

Symptoms: stuttering and stalling on initial start. Ran mostly fine after. Got progressively worse and started backfiring/hesitating on acceleration. Today half yellow engine light popped on. $1,500 replacement. Crappy part (for me anyway).

 

I have read that the new replacement HPFP's are only warrantied for 2 years after install. I was hoping that they had solved the HPFP issue, but apparently not. That sucks. Yeah, a crappy part, for sure!

 

Hey, new to this group and I realize this is an old thread but I’m at a loss of what to do and I have a similar issue. I have R53 (06 MCS, Auto trans) that has had a recurring fault, mostly experienced between 1500-2000 RPM such as accelerating from stop sign. Happens more times than not when engine is cold, but not exclusively. Anyhow, there is some serious hesitation at the referenced RPM range (approx 15-25 mph) to the point that it feels like it's going to stall. For those several seconds, there is no throttle response. There has been no phantom revving without accelerating so it doesn’t seem like it’s transmission related. This had been going on for months, then finally one morning the engine died (I hadn’t tracked ODO and fuel gauge said 1/2 tank) so this was a twofer, the fuel pump had failed AND yes, it was also out of gas... Replaced fuel pump, filter, and sending unit that day. Fuel gauge now functioning properly and it seemed that the acceleration prob went away for a while. Eventually it started occurring again. So I had plugs and wires changed (car has approx 60K) Found one of the plug wires had been arcing. This, too, seemed to help for a period of time. I replaced the coil last week and even the plug wires again for good measure, but the hesitation is back and now, it is sort of ‘bucking’ when shifting between 2 & 3. It still does not feel transmission related, but I’m out of ideas. I just purchased this car last summer from a retired couple who purchased it new, garage kept, all services done at dealer. Very clean car. I have had several BG services performed, never a check engine light triggered, no fault codes stored. I have also tracked the mpg and while I am doing prob 80% city driving, stop and go, I’m avg about 13-16 mpg using Shell 93. I have used BG 44K, Induction Service performed, and checked for software updates. No idea where to go from here. The car is so fun, yet I’m frustrated at the nagging issues. I wish it would trigger a check engine light so there would at least be something to diagnose. Thanks and sorry for the long post.

 

Sorry... I've never owned a Gen1 Mini, and don't know enough about them to help. You might have more luck if you post this in the Gen1 forums. Good luck!