Is there a guide on how to removing carbon manually from the valves and everything that has carbon buildup in the R56 engine? When i say manually i mean without using a carbon blaster machine or sea foam or whatever, but to open up the engine and clean it all up!

 

Somebody did a post here detailing that at one point. They used solvent and brushes and dental picks, and got a fair amount of the crud out. They did have to take the manifold off, of course. It evidently took a long time and was kind of a pain to do.

IIRC, whoever it was said that the next time, they'd pay a shop to walnut-blast it.

 

Check on the Bavarian Autosport website: www.blog.BavAuto.com/go/turbo1


I haven't checked it out yet, still have a ways to go before I'll need to do this. At least you may be able to pick up some pointers from the video. Good luck!

 

The "www" in your link is redundant--that page doesn't exist. Remove the "www" and it does.

http://blog.bavauto.com/15543/

 

I checked the video on the Bavarian Autosport website but i must say its not clean like it was from day one. The walls of the valve chamber are not 100% clean, they don't have the silver metallic color that they must of had when the car was new!

 

Whatever you do don't even touch the throttle plate or you'll be sorry, I have heard of other member's touching the throttle plate and having trouble getting their Mini started. These Mini's are sensitive in so many strange ways.

 

no offense but if you have to ask this question you are probably not qualified to do this yourself.

 

The ports will never be back to a factory state of color. The oil will stain them. If you dont wanna spend the money to walnut blast them. Its gonna take forever. The fastest way is the walnut blast, then do the rest manually. Theres a good reason for doing it that way. Around the seat area it build up. And if you clean it manually those pieces of crud will drop into the cylinders. Heres how bad it can get. That area around the seat you will play hell getting to manually.



Heres how bad it can get. I highly suggest walnut blast first then do it the hard way.

 

I have to agree with SPRINTCARS and turbosix on this one, it will take forever and you'll wish you never did it because of the other things I mentioned in my last post. This is one of those things I would never suggest a member performing no matter skill level because it's to much of a headache. It really is worth a walnut media blasting and if you have a dealer perform it they might even update you ECU software like they usually do.

 

How long does it usually take to get to that point? Most places and posts claim around 30K. Would one's driving style can prolong its service interval or is it regardless?

Reason being, I do 120m/day 95% freeway driving no stress unless if I hit traffic due to construction on occasion. Last time I had it done was last August and never before that. I am at 124.8K on the clock as we speak.

Thanks - jg

 

Every Mini is different, but freeway driving is the best for prolonging the buildup of carbon on the intake valves, city driving and driving your Mini hard stop and go will only increase buildup. My carbon buildup on my intake valves was surprisingly mild for the 47,000 miles driven, it's possible mine was clean before I took ownership of my Mini at 45,600 two years ago. It's also possible most of my miles were on the freeway, I always drive hard on freeway on-ramps to open her up and clear her throat.

 

Well, that photo was taken at around 150,000. I got the car at 110,000. Not sure when the previous owner had it done prior to me. Ive always seen recommendations to be done every 30K. My car was all interstate miles. Theres alot of speculation of do this do that. But everytime the end result has always ended up being walnut blast it at 30k and theres never any issues for the people who've had it done on a regular maintenance schedule. Its like changing oil, just one of those things on these cars thats gotta be done whether we like it or not.

 

Thanks! That goes for brake and rotors too... and possibly oil change intervals where viscosity breakdown is prolonged.

Sorry if I am off tangent from the main topic.

The picture posted looked horrible. When I had my car serviced I have to live it at Helix for a couple of days since I had a few things done also. I should have asked to take a pic of the before and after to see where my driving habits and style contributed to it.

 

YES on preventive maintenance! But the walnut blasting is such a big deal (at least me it's a huge undertaking because of proximity) that between driving habits and styles if I could get an exact schedule when to get it done.

Now when you get it done at 180K you can exactly tell by comparison just for casual reference.

 

Heck yea you'll if you wait that long. But dont do it. You just gotta figure out what schedule works for you. Only you know and can answer that one. So if i were you. Id get it done. Go about 20,000 and look it. Maybe go some more. Look again. You gotta make a schedule up.

 

What exactly does the new ECU update offer?

 

What city are you closest too ?

 

He's in Greece. He has asked the same questions and received the same answers on two different MINI Forums.....get it walnut blasted.....but he continues to fight everyone's recommendations. We can only do so much, to each his own.

 

That ends this then.

 

You know I'm not sure, updates so far on my Mini have been very positive. Before the valve cleaning/update I had mad torque steer in high second gear, the Mini almost hopped into the lane next to me. Afterwards the torque steer was much improved, I never had anything bad to say about my updates. It doesn't feel like I lost any power, it still as quick without the torque steer.

Brakes are easy, there's only 1 bolt holding the on rotor and 4 bolts holding the caliper. After that you have access to change rotor/pads. Just don't allow the calipers to dangle because you'll break the brake lines.

 

It depends on way too many things to really say for sure. You can pick a schedule and stick with it, or pick a schedule by guesswork, and have the shop take before and after pics for you. If the "before" looks too bad at your interval (30K? 50K?) miles, then shorten the interval. If it doesn't look bad, then lengthen it.

Or you can get a borescope and actually look to see if you need it. Something like would probably work. You'll have to take some of the intake apart and thread the scope in all the way down to the intake ports. Have a look around and make a judgement call. Or take pics and post them for everyone else to guess at.

 

Keeps kicking that dead horse over there

 

It seems he's creating a third thread somewhere else, well we did our best to try and offer our assistance. I hope he finds what he's looking for.

 

🏇

 

Thanks! I will definitely do an inspection on the latter part of spring. Still diligent on Seafoam and BG44 treatments though. I have the borescope in my cart at Amazon now. Thanks for the lead.