Engine turns over but not so much as a hiccup. Starter just keeps turning engine. The only code was P0962 which is a bad solenoid in valve body of transmission. This shouldn't stop the engine from starting, right? I went through the on board computer and found no cc-id codes. Not sure where to begin. I guess I can check for spark and fuel but if there was a problem with spark or fuel should the computer throw some codes? I don't get it. Any suggestions? By the way the battery is still quite new.

 

I'm no mechanic but if you have a severe enough tranny fault I assume the ECU tells the car not to start. Back when I was just starting to drive cars didn't act so damn smart.

 

Computer wont throw any new codes until after the engine fires up.

Spark is easy to check - pull the plug, and you will (likely) find flooded cylinders that need to be aired out. Then crank and verify spark, or lack thereof.

If spark is present and the cylinders are not flooded, your fuel pump is dead. HPFP are known for this on R56s, warranty extended to 12 years and 100K miles (or is it 10 years and 120K miles?).

Good luck,
a

 

Didn't think about engine not throwing codes until after it starts. Thanks. I wanted to see if I was getting enough fuel pressure. HPFP is a well known problem. I noticed a white residue coming from the back where the fuel lines attach. It appears to be leaking from the out line to fuel rail.

 

I've ordered a bmw scan tool. Will I be able to view pressure from computer with engine turning but not starting? I would like to know with confidence that the fuel pump is bad before I take it in. I've complained about tough starts, lack of power, and choppy acceleration. They say hpfp has adequate fuel pressure and blame carbon build up. I don't think there is much carbon build up considering my cylinder head was replaced 20k miles ago. You would think they should replace Hpfp based on symptoms and leakage.

 

I didn't smell fuel after cranking a few times. Also coulnt see or smell fuel after pulling a plug. After waiting a while I tested for spark by attaching plug to coil. I let it rest on top of engine and had friend crank engine. I didn't see any spark. Is there a special way to test spark? I read in manual that a test plug is used and gap is increased and a ground wire is attached to body of plug. Is it possible I didn't see spark because plug wasn't grounded? I don't think I have fuel or spark! I'm probably not doing this right. Any suggestions?

 

Just had cyl head replaced 22k miles ago. Never had an carbon issue before. Not sure why now. 22k miles and so much build up doesn't sound right. Could something be making the carbon build up worse and build up faster?

 

did you ever get this resolved?

2013 justa, getting fuel but no spark.
tach is counting revs (crank sensor)
fuses ok..

 

Some code readers will not find all the stored codes if there is a check engine light.

Justwatcher , are you getting a code, or CEL ?

Ours does:

Professional BMW/MINI Scan Tool

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2975699/

 

I have seen more than a few instances of the battery being the cause. Did you test yours to rule it out of the equation before jumping into other problem areas?

 

Strong cranking but I'll swap it out when I get home... the code I scanned was proprietary BMW P18b8.
I've tried to find it online but no luck.. the closest I found was a canbus error code for another make.
The tester above is interesting, I spend a lot of time playing with minis.

 

Was that the right code, if you are reading it one number off, it will not show up ?

 

yes, verified that it is P18b8.. still thinking it might be a Can-bus error and I like the idea of swapping the battery out because I haven't verified the cranking voltage and it's the original OEM battery.
I'll drop a line asap after testing it.. thanks much.

 

Ok, if you load test the battery you will be able to tell if its weak and it throwing that code. Also make sure those terminal are clean and on tight.

 

I replaced the battery with a known good battery and it still has good fuel pressure and injecting fuel but no spark and throwing the following codes..


p15b8
p15b9

p18b8
I checked the under-hood fuses and will check the interior fuse box fuses tomorrow..

best, and thanks

 

Looks like multiple issues , check the stater hook up and battery cables all the way down to the starter and that intake manifold. has someone pulled the intake and stater off before ?

 

I removed the air cleaner housing and performed a top to bottom visual inspection.. cables and plugs for sensors, starter an intake manifold are ok.
Funny thing is nothing was done to the car prior to the codes and start fail, just pulled into the garage and it wouldn't start the next morning.

symptoms

• cranks well but doesn't start, system voltage is good with known good battery (normal mA draw with key off)
• fuel injectors working and fuel rail is pressurized
• no spark, tested with other known spark plugs and coils

new (or unnoticed ) symptoms

• interior light switch intermittent
• interior lock switch intermittent (fob ok)

I still haven't checked the interior fuse box.
I'll also start checking ground points

 

That's where i would start with as well as the main wiring harness looking for cuts and damage from thermostat installs or work performed.

 

The grounds, physical wiring and everything in the interior fuse box looks ok.
Going deep now, module functionality and operational relations.
I can't imagine a circumstance where the interlock system would disable the ignition system but not the fuel system.
The tach is also functioning (that and working injectors) so I'm fairly confident that the timing system is up and running.
I'm starting to think the IGBT in the module that drives the plugs may have failed.
I've also seen the Can Bus blowup with odd messages with faulty wiring or failed modules.
It would be useful to know if the codes indicate a failure that would disable the ignition or if they're secondary to the failure.
On to the schematics next and out with the O-Scope next.

 

I worked through the system for Can noise and found noise and spikes on both the PT and K-Can buses. It appears to be the junction box (JBE) causing the problem.
Ordered a compatible unit and will update this thread next week when it arrives.

 

Success... replaced the passenger side footwell fuse box / module and the ignition coils started firing. Dropped the plugs back in and she fired right up..

Online search revealed that this module communicates across multiple CAN Bus lines.
The engine and interior buses were affected and so the secondary issues went away as well.

Secondary symptoms..

• interior light switch intermittent
• interior lock switch intermittent (fob ok)

Primary symptoms were..

• cranks well but doesn't start, system voltage was good with known good battery (normal mA draw with key off)
• fuel injectors working and fuel rail is pressurized
• no spark, tested with other known spark plugs and coils
• Traced Noise on Engine CAN Bus and Interior CAN Bus

So if you see very unusual error codes and your battery and grounds are good, You may want to check for CAN Bus noise and track modules on the affected bus(es).
- BTW, in case you anyone was wondering, I used a pocket O-Scope (about the size of a cell phone) to do this type of testing because it quickly gives clues to voltages added to bus lines, shorts to ground and module noise.



hope this helps.. and thanks to all for the helpful suggestions.

 

Glad to hear it was OK !

 

Glad you figured it out and thanks for posting up your findings.

 

Ah, thanks for the update , glad you have it.

 

Lubs me some Minis