Okay, that's a cylinder 1 misfire. First step is to be sure you have known good spark plugs. Then swap the cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 coil packs. Run the car hard, make it throw a code. Is that code now P0302? If so, throw a coil pack at it. If it's still P0301, I would eliminate a worst-case scenario and do a quick compression test...

 

Mine just had a fuel pump replacement about 2 months ago due to misfire on cylinder one and low cold start fuel pump pressure. MINI refused to help me unless I spent $1000 at the dealer for other things first. If it starts and idles fine even with MI weather lately I doubt it's the fuel pump. Mine started sputtering the first time it got down into the 20s and got worse and worse over time. After replacing my HPFP it now idles better but still has very minor (50-100 RPM) changes in idle speed for about 10-20 seconds when it's really cold and STILL cuts out when I really put my foot down. Makes a sort of click noise. Not an engine clacking. Sounds similar to a spark.

 

I have a pump on the way. I was able to pay 170 for a pump.

Hopefully this can keep me on the road and a 100 percent until I break 100,000. If there is another issue before 100,000.. this is my last MINI for sure

 

Well…… looks like i fell into the .001 percent.

Installed the fuel pump, started it up great, took it out, went hard on third after a coast warm up, and SPUTTER hard!! I was so disappointed. Fuel pump was fine all a long.

This led me back to square 1. Spark plugs and coils. I removed my spark plugs and put in my old ones. Guess what happens…. THE SPUTTER IS GONE. I felt one small sputter in 4th on low revs. That is because one plug is going bad. That was the problem all along.

So I was sold faulty plugs. Issues. They were Denso. I will be returning and have some NGK on the way. They will be here in the morning.

I will keep this up to date. Who knows.When I put in coils it felt good.

In the end I spent 400 total on all parts. That is 330 over what I would of spent if I was given the correct plugs. In all I have a extra set of coils, a used (but working) fuel pump. I could of saved money, but what the hell. The extra parts will just have my MINI last longer.

I will keep everyone updated.

 

Glad you have such a positive attitude after spending all that moolah! These are indeed tricky little cars. Just today, mine had a funny idle upon starting after sitting for 10 hours or so. Idle kinda fluctuated, engine seemed to idle low, then caught itself, and revved up. Did this several times, then settled down and drove just fine. I suspect I have something going bad somewhere. Waiting for the "check engine" light to come on. With all the BS I have dealt with (granted, nowhere near as much as some here), I still LOVE my MINI!

 

I would not blame the plugs for your fiasco.

Throughout this entire ordeal, you have steadfastly refused to diagnose the problem (pull the codes, investigate accordingly), and have been blindly throwing parts at the car. THAT is your problem.

No need, really.
We know that you will keep throwing parts at the car until you run out of money, or sell the car.

a

 

I respect everyone, including you and your thoughts. Wont take your opinion away. Thats how you feel, okay.

but the codes that were thrown were misfires on multiple cylinders. Nothing else. I bought spark plugs from an auto store, and they were faulty, continued to throw misfire codes on different cylinders. So I went to next step not knowing they were faulty. Was it my fault on the plugs, possibly, could of doubled checked them sooner.
Bought a fuel pump, replaced it, still problems, so I went back to square one and took out the plugs. We live we learn. I wanted to dodge the dealer. Dealer charges close to 400 on replacing coils and plugs right? (100 for diagnosing the car, 200 for coils, 100 for plugs).

Fuel pumps go bad from what I read, I have a spare.

Total "loss" is 170 on a "extra" fuel pump. Thats it. Coils and plugs totaled 200. I really threw a lot of money at it alright.

 

yea, unfortunately I lost 170 on the "extra pump". the plugs and coils are a good change at 60,000 anyway. Hope all goes well with your MINI

 

I have this exact same issue....exactly the same. I also have a 2011 Mini Cooper S with about 68k miles. I have tried everything except HPFP. I also put in the Denso plugs "DENSO SC20HR11 Spark Plug" off amazon. I can drive my car normally with no issue. The only time I ever have an issue is if I try to push it hard then it fails.

I have a code reader and have got every code off of it. They are always P0300, P0302, P0303 and P0304. They will stay a while and will end up falling off especially if I don't push the car hard.

I took the car to MINI and they told me that since I didn't have official MINI Cooper coil packs they cannot diagnose the issue until I replace the originals and then they said it is most likely bad brand new coils since they are aftermarket.

The ignition coils I put in were "Standard Motor Products UF-592 Ignition Coil" off of amazon.

My question is for "mydime13" ... What NGK plugs did you get/install? Is the car still running great? I will be trying this if you can confirm.

 

My car is running great! I in fact have a denso plug instead of the NGKs. They did not have them but had the DENSOs which fit for the turbo. The problem I had before with the densos is autozone gave me ones for a cooper base. Not turbo. I would check to make sure that first. Make sure you have the right one. Bring the plug you have to a NAPA. They are better then autozone in my personal opinion. They didn't give me bad plugs. I am currently working. So I will have to get back to you on my exact plug. My coils are Bosch. Saved money and they work great. It may be coils and plugs. Do not give up.

 

Having a similar problem, got on my mini hard and it started sputtering and went into engine safe mode, pulled over at the truck stop, shut it off, let it sit for a few minutes and restarted it. Engine safe went away but there was still pending misfire codes on all four cylinders. Took it to my local shop that works on all sorts of foreign cars (most of the people in my mini club take their cars here) and had them do diagnostics. They plugged their computer in and took my car out and drove it pretty hard, got nothing. The codes even went away. It cost me $98.00 and when I asked them how much it would cost to do a more in depth diagnosis they told me that testing fuel pressure, checking plugs and whatnot would cost more as they did more. I was a little irritated that they didn't include that in the diagnosis, but the misfires haven't gone away. It's only under heavy acceleration in fourth, fifth and sixth gears, but I haven't gotten around to any testing yet. Car starts and runs great until you hit higher gears, any ideas? 2013 mini countryman sALL4

 

First and I will get backlash from this, if you have a JB+ chip, throw it away. It has been the cause of my problems initially which match yours and the original posters. The N18 is a complicated and highly finicky engine in terms of air, fuel, and ignition aspects are concerned. They are primed and designed to be high performance out the door and make use of a small liter engine turbo'd.

If your dead set on modding, do it right manic tune seems to be the way to go, cat back or less exhaust, downpipe etc. Like warranties? Buy a JCW and your modded and protected.

Now, that being said and you have not modded your car and your HPFP is fine start with making sure your plugs are not fouled or aftermarket. If your not modded, mini oem plugs are great. They sell the same plug not mini approved but the spacing can be different I heard. Spend the money on the mini plugs and not only will it not void the warranty, mini will work on it. If your plugs are fine, stock, and have low miles next replace the wireing harness on all the four cylinders. I've heard and have had misfires on two cylinders where they just swapped out those two harnesses and the problem reoccurred the next day in the form of your issue. Shifts fine casually driving but if your on the highway and drop it in to 4th and gun it, it studders between 3000 and 4000 rpm a couple times. This is where I am at. I have 12 days of warranty left and am trying to convince carmax to get it right and fast so if the issue revolves around a more complicated and expensive issue I can purchase the 60,000 or six year extended for $3,000. Yes, as a person who never would consider purchasing an extended warranty, mini ownership and this forum has shown you get your money back if your religious about bringing it in to a dealer service station you like.

Good luck, harnesses and plugs are cheap. Plenty of how to's exist on YouTube too.

 

I got the problem fixed, ended up putting new plugs and coils in. The only mod my car has is a K&N drop in filter. Now I have to get a new T-stat housing because my car doesn't warm up well and blows coolong air once I stop moving. Thank you!

 

A couple of points, not as an argument, just as food for thought. My JB+ has been fine, and on my 2011 MCS for at least 30 or 40k miles. I have mine cranked up to 70%, as it is one of the original models that can be adjusted. Granted, there could be some bad ones out there. Also, if the original poster is still around, did you replace your high pressure fuel pump for $170.00? Or the one in the tank? $170.00 sounds mighty inexpensive for an HPFP, unless it was used. I am running the NGK 5992, formerly ILZKBR7A-8G. I replaced the stock plugs with the NGK's at almost 30k, then another set of NGK's at around 60k, no issues, just maintenance. My HPFP was replaced under my aftermarket warranty (or was it my factory warranty? Don't recall.) at around 47k, so, yes, the N18's still have the HPFP failures of the N14's, maybe not as often, but still happens. I also had all 4 factory coils replaced with new MINI units under my aftermarket warranty, at around 55k, IIRC. My MINI dealer said my NGK's looked fine, so they put them back in.

Like I said, just food for thought. Not trying to start anything.