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R56 JCW stabilizer bushings

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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:50 AM
  #1  
eskayotic's Avatar
eskayotic
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JCW stabilizer bushings

I was told from the dealer that the stabilizer bushing in the front is shot and needs replacement.
For our Minis, the entire subframe needs to be dropped so it will cost a ton on $$.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Is it just a time consuming, but simple job?
I'm contemplating between a shop that handles strictly euro cars (but charges more) or a local shop that I take my Acura to. (cheaper).

Also, my brake rotors are warped with less than 20K miles after replacement.
Could it be the stabilizer bushing that caused this? 20K miles is just too soon imo.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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afadeev
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Originally Posted by eskayotic
I was told from the dealer that the stabilizer bushing in the front is shot and needs replacement.
For our Minis, the entire subframe needs to be dropped so it will cost a ton on $$.
Does anyone have experience with this?
Is it just a time consuming, but simple job?
I'm contemplating between a shop that handles strictly euro cars (but charges more) or a local shop that I take my Acura to. (cheaper).
I assume we are talking about the busing that connects the bottom of the engine to the frame?
If that is it, then replacing it is a simple job of unscrew the old, screw in the new (BTDT during engine swap). Anyone can do it, including yourself (if you can get the nose of the car up on jack stands/ramps.

If you are talking about something else - do lets us know what you are referring to as "stabilizer bushing".


Originally Posted by eskayotic
Also, my brake rotors are warped with less than 20K miles after replacement.
Could it be the stabilizer bushing that caused this? 20K miles is just too soon imo.
Nothing causes rotors to warp more than crappy aftermarket pads that were never bedded to the rotors, or not taking a cool down lap after DE/autoX runs. It can happen in as few as 100 miles, to 50K miles.

Again, easy to DIY replace, or pay someone to do it for you. Any independent shop should quote a fraction of dealer cost.

a
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by afadeev
I assume we are talking about the busing that connects the bottom of the engine to the frame?
If that is it, then replacing it is a simple job of unscrew the old, screw in the new (BTDT during engine swap). Anyone can do it, including yourself (if you can get the nose of the car up on jack stands/ramps.

If you are talking about something else - do lets us know what you are referring to as "stabilizer bushing".
I think he means the sway bar bushings??

I know you need to lower the subframe to get access to them (on Gen 1 at least, but I dont see why Gen 2 would differ that much). I got away with just undoing a couple of the bolts holding the subframe to the car, prying it down a bit, then shoving a block of wood between the rear most portion of the subframe and the underside of the car. Then I used a flex head ratchet wrench to get to the bolts holding the swaybar in. Beware that those bolts are a HUGE PITA to get off since they are torqued to like 120 ft/lbs plus mine were a little rusty.

Its fairly straightforward aside from the tightness of the working space (if you don't want to completely drop the subframe) and how difficult those bolts were for me to loosen.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Yes on an R56 you have to drop the subframe to install the sway bar bushings.

But if you are going through that work go ahead and replace the control arm bushings with some powerflex control arm bushings as these are the most common to wear out.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerfl...shing-kit.html
 
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