Has anyone here replaced the timing chain replacement on a MCS with a N18 motor? I have a 2011 S with the N18 motor and am getting what sounds like the death rattle that has been described. I replaced with tensioner, however when I removed the old one it fell apart in my hands so evidently it was in bad shape, and the rattle has not gone away.

So I wanted to see if anyone here has done the timing chain on an N18 motor. Everything I can find in terms of a procedural write-up or TSB's is for the N14 motors, and I wanted to see what the differences before jumping into this.

Both the dealer as well as an independent BMW/Mini shop quoted me $1,400 for the job which is a bit steep. I know my way around a set of tool - built motors, etc. The biggest issue I see it that i would have to buy the cam lock/flywheel lock tools for $500+ but figured I could sell them afterwards and recoup a good chuck of my cost for that.

Thanks!

Skip

 

Best price I found on the cam tool was from the dealer. Cost was less than $400. The procedures in the Bentley manual are spot on. You will also need the tool for torquing the bottom bolt and a new HB bolt that goes into the crank. It's single use only! Vanos bolts are single use only as well.

 

I take it that your Mini is out of warranty, have you asked for a "good will" repair from Mini Cooper?
I've heard that sometimes Mini Cooper will do the right thing if just asked.

 

I haven't done one on the N18 motor but I just completed mine on the N14 motor. I found the tools for mine off amazon for about 100$, they're just as good as the BMW set probably (though you might want to buy some better bolts, as the 4 they supply are kind of cheap, but whatever). The flywheel tool is a POS no matter what kit you get, I used a hex-drive socket from this kit http://www.sears.com/craftsman-evolv...p-00910058000P, I think it was #7, and locked it in/moved it with vice grip pliers. SO much better than the tool. pulled it out no problem, you just have to make sure you really lock it in that hole, you'll be able to feel if your flywheel is not exactly in the right position. I plan to write a detailed add-on to the Bentley manual in a couple weeks, basically don't put your car into radiator service mode like it says, you do need to free up some space on the pass. side near the engine though, you'll see where. Get the Bentley manual however, it's a must have. Also be careful with torqueing bolts to spec, start with a wrench set to a few ft lbs lower, I had a bolt snap on me very easily. Was able to get it out somewhat easily but I may need to go in and re tap the hole and replace it when I get some time. overall, not a hard project, just set aside a few days of 3 to 5 hours each, or one REALLY long day.

 

$1400 is cheap for a timing chain assembly repair, a year and a half ago I was quoted $1600. That's a pretty good price and perhaps the Dealer will update you ECU like they did mine.

 

Thanks for all the responses. I will definitely get the Bentley manual and I found the following tool set on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131371629059?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
What special tool do I need to torque the bottom bolt - I assume you mean the bottom crank bolt?

 

Thanks for the tip on using the hex bit for the flywheel lock. When you say I need to "free up some space on the pass. side near the engine" - is this just removing the wheel well liner? Or removing the charge pipe up top?

 

Yes - unfortunately my car has 85,xxx miles and is a ways out of warranty. I had a long talk with the service manager when I was at the dealer buying the tensioner and discussed the chance of getting Mini to provide some good will and they were very non-committal. They wanted me to bring the car in and pay $300 for them to open up the valve cover to check out the chain and only then would they contact Mini. Didn't give me much confidence that they would advocate strongly on my behalf and $300 would cover the parts needed for me to do it myself.

 

$300, it only takes a matter of a under 1 minute to remove the valve cover using air tools. Good call of declining because it would have been a waste of your time and money. Those service guys will do anything to get you to bring in your car even if your chances are slim to none getting Mini to do a goodwill gesture.

 

I mean you'll need to remove the wheel liner, remove the friction wheel, and remove all the bolts along that bumper support that connects to that black hard plastic tube, you need to remove whatever you need to in order to slide that tube around forward, back, side to side, it really helps when trying to work on that side of the motor. you don't need to put the car into service mode, though that might help to (in mind mind it's too much hassle).

 

Well I finally got a chance to do this and am almost to the point of getting the old chain assembly out. The only thing left is to get the guiderail bearing bolts out. Unfortunately 2 of the 3 of them are buried behind other things.

One of them is behind the friction wheel tensioner (the one you pull the cable to release), and I am having a tough time getting that tensioner. Specifically two of the bolts are up inside the engineer bay. I unbolted the engine mount and lowered the engine, but can't get a ratchet and socket in between the bolt and the frame rail. And I can't get a ratchet wrench on it. Any ideas? I am thinking of buying a 1/4" drive 10 mm socket and grinding it down. Any trick?

Skip

 

Now that you have it apart, is the timing chain/tensioner bad?

 

I got those friction wheel bolts off by using a micro 10mm wrench albeit with a lot of patience and finagling.