can someone post up a photo of the location of the mechanical vacuum pump and hose I remove so I can see if the knocking sound goes away. I don't want to remove the wrong hose. thanks. from what I've read its near the coolant tank.

does it matter if its removed before or after the car is started?

 

It's that round can looking thing under the intake pipe on the exhaust cam near the turbo. There is also a plastic connecting pipe that leads towards the master cylinder, this is where the master cylinder gets its vacuum, the turbo actuator also runs off the vacuum pump.

 

according to these instructions.

in the first photo, is it the one with the netting? or is it the one that connects to the top of the pump, shown in the second photo? thanks.

 

Netted hose in 1st pic is for the turbo waste gate. Master cylinder is fed from the top hose --- 2nd pic.

Might try disconnecting both hoses, just be sure not to drive it while disconnected.

 

would removing one and not the other be bad?

 

Vacuum pump is the second pic.

Just watch unclipping the line at the top, I don't want you to damage that nozzle. Press the clip in on the sides and pull up.




Here is the one for the N14 Turbo Engine which is what you have. ( N14 have the exposed wires / coil ( no top cover ) .

Vacuum Pump 11667556919

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11667556919/





The second one is that main lines , from the bottom of the vaccum pump above to the waste-gate.



http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11657570465/



Thanks

 

I haven't seen the SIM you reference, so don't know what you're trying to do. For troubleshooting purposes, disconnecting either (or both) hose at the pump should be enough. And, it's easiest to disconnect before starting the engine. You may or may not get a CEL when you start the engine, and definitely don't drive it with the brake hose off! The other hose is used to actuate the turbo waste gate. If the waste gate doesn't actuate when necessary, you'll get a serious noise, and a burst of very rough performance. Is this the problem you're working on?

 

The vacuum pump is also used to activate the wastegate, so you will lose power brakes and wastegate actuation among other things I am sure. Do not drive the car with either disconnected as stated above.

Removing either is bad.

I broke my vacuum pump outlet (ecs stated to be careful in their post). I would agree. You cannot buy the outlet adaptor separately from the pump.

Sent from my Nexus using NAMotoring

 

I was diagnosing the rattle sound during startup. it did end up being the vacuum pump. the pump has a tsb for it and its "normal" for it to make that sound. where you actually hear the sound is on the valve cover. for me, it was the 2nd cylinder area from the passenger side.

 

+1 on watching the removal of that upper line. The black nozzle part is a separate piece but can only be bought new with the whole vaccum pump. The vacuum pump linked above is for the N14 Engine ( Cooper S / JCW ) Turbo.