I have a 2007 R56 MCS. I have been doing some window shopping and have come to the conclusion that I want to install an aftermarket downpipe on my MINI. The particular one that I am looking at is uncatted, completely free-flow. It DOES have the threaded inserts for the 2 oxygen sensors. My question is that IF I install this on my MINI, even with the O2 sensors being utilized, will the extra airflow cause the ECU to trip the engine light? I'm dead set on installing one, but I don't want to look at an engine light all the time, nor do I want to potentially hinder performance/MPG, etc.... Any help or input in this matter is greatly appreciated!!!

 

Your CEL will definitely come on. One solution is a Scangauge II (or any other type of device that will let you check and clear codes) and the Akrapovic Delete-R. The Delete-R will delay the light from coming on (I say delay because mine still came on but less frequently). Another option is a tune. A custom tune/tuner can make it so that your CEL doesn't come on because of your cat, or lack thereof.

There are other options but that is what I started with. I now have a tune, and don't worry about my CEL at all.

 

Custom tuning from Battle/DNA tuning will do the trick! Don't have to worry about seeing that hideous CEL on my speedo!

 

you should get a tune. why put the downpipe on if the ecu isn't going to target higher loads for more power? the ecu will still target stock parameters all while noticing a flow improvement and wanting to add short term fuel to prevent it from leaning itself out.

 

I have a question that kind of goes along with this, and sorry for a slight thread jack but it may help your decision. I installed my catless DP this weekend and took it out for a few spirited runs. Wow does it sound great! Really deep and throaty. CEL came on. To be expected. However, I did get the reduced engine power light. I felt the boost cut out un heavy excelleration. Is this normal for a non-tuned car that is decatted? Is it because of the p0420 code? There are no other codes in system or pending. I will be getting a tune in a matter of days from Battle/DNA. Should I be concerned? Or will the tune take care of that?

 

the tune should take care of the CEL, among other things. half power mode is the pre-CEL event and your car will have almost no power.

 

I would think a defouler could take care of that if untuned. Should space out the O2 enough to think it's getting clean air.

 

I'm relatively green when it comes to the car, so what exactly is a defouler? Can you elaborate?

 

Relatively green? Really? And you're deleting the cats? Really?

Please, just do us all a favor, and not do this. It really doesn't make the car faster. The car is probably better than you are, and all going a little bit faster is going to get you is more damage when you run out of talent..Lol besides, a MINI isn't ever going to be a fast car.

There are always faster cars..

Besides, the rest of us really do like to breath clean air.

And lastly, if you don't have an intercooler, what you gain with the pipe, you give up more in heat soak.

Just saying

 

A bit harsh

 

My guess would be that if your boost is cutting out, you have a leak. Check all your hoses and pipes. Maybe even the DP to Turbo connection.

 

Above could be the case. Before my tune I got the CEL but no limp mode it sounds like something else is wrong so when you get tuned you'd still be dealing with it. I'd make sure the car is running properly befote installing the tune that way if there's any problems you can query battle tuning about possibly fine tuning(pun intended)

 

Agreed. FMIC first. However... If you are interested in getting the most out of your Mini engine-wise, work the whole intake-output thing first THEN get a tune after everything is in place. Read/study/learn before asking people what to do. Suspension... Always a better first place to start if you don't have the ducats to work on both at the same time.

Good luck.

 

Amen. Or in internet forum speak, +1000.

If you want more power, get a JB+. Delivers real power gains, easier to install, no CELs, doesn't remove a key piece of your emissions control system, etc. Go read the thread for details. I don't know about other states, but in CA you'd be slapped with a big fine if you were caught without your catalytic converter.

And yes the car is better than you are, until you go out and practice and learn how to drive the car to its full potential. A better driver than I am can run a faster lap time in a Justa than I do in my S. I can lower my lap time by several seconds just by becoming a better driver before I need to worry about more power.

 

it chaps my *** when people do engine mods and don't get a tune, all that work for nothing. these cars aren't carb'ed. the computer needs to know in order for SAFE power gains to be had.

 

I finally put on mine today. 15 miles later I get CEL. It is heat wrapped and has an O2 extension for secondary. AP Stage 1 tune.

1 code is for running too lean, one for misfire all cylinders, still looking up what the rest are.

P2096
P2783
P277b
P277f
P2773
P2ac2
P2a75

 

No leaks! I uploaded my DNA/Battle tune today and all problems are gone! I did all the work myself, and am a little OCD when it comes to torquing things down so I was pretty sure there no leaks to be had. Although I had been doubting myself. But after a few hard runs there were no reduced power messages or cut outs. Just goes to show that you can do very little without the car picking it up or needing someone to tell it that something changed.

 

It is basically a spacer for your O2 sensor on your exhaust. Spacing it further away allows it to pick up "cleaner" air. Per the description:

The factory ECU is comparing the readings from a pair of oxygen sensors to measure the effectiveness of the cat. When a high-flow cat is used the exhaust gases are able to pass by the cat at a much faster rate, disrupting the readings. The o2 sensor spacer retracts the second oxygen sensor from the direct flow of gases, restoring the balance that the ECU requires when using a high-flow cat.

I am going this route first before I have my tune clear it for me. Reason being is that a cleared CEL from a tune doesn't clear the error from reading codes on the car, and it won't pass emissions. Here in Nevada I believe it is 2 faults = fail. So instead of swapping DPs every year, I will use the spacer and tweak it until it tricks the sensor to reading clean air (hopefully....it's never a sure thing with these things, but have been very successful with VW/Audi with catless DPs).

http://www.etektuning.com/42-draft-o2-sensor-spacer/

 

I tried the bigdaddiesgarage spacer and got a lean code and a super knock code with my wmw downpipe...

 

quick question. with a aftermarket downpipe can you use just a clamp to hold it on after the downpipe or weld it?

 

V-band clamp. If you still have the original v-band clamp, I'd recommend replacing it.

 

Thanks for the info... It was actually HELPFUL.... I'm gonna look more into that... I contacted a shop about the tuning, and it was $$$$... I only wanted the downpipe for extra exhaust note, performance I don't care about... That being said, I can't justify paying $$$$$ for a tune, just because I want a little extra exhaust growl...

 

Well it'll definately give you an exhaust note. I love mine. It may be too loud for my fiancée, but I love it! And I'm not sure how much $$$$ you're talking with the tune from the shop you talked to. But the DNA tune from Battle is less expensive than some of the downpipes out there. Maybe not the catless since those are relatively inexpensive. $650 for stage 2 groupbuy is up today. The tune is uploaded with a programmer that connects to the OBDII port. If you can't do the tune now, I'd wait save the money and get it done at the same time.

I'd highly recommend getting the tune with the downpipe. I put my catless downpipe on and my 2007 R56S went into a reduced power mode if I let it rev too high (somewhere between 5500 to 6000 rpm). While the car is completely driveable, it took the fun away.

I know defoulers can help with that, but they can be a headache to get just right. Back to the tune real quick. I know you're not too worried about performance, but I will say having the personal tune done, my car generally runs better. Its smoother and feels great to just cruise.

Here's a link to the groupbuy if you haven't already taken a look. Battle Tuning Groupbuy

 

thank you!

 

OK so even with the AP stage 2 tune & O2 extender I have a CEL

P2773
P2ac2
P2a75

It can be cleared but will come back in 12 miles or so. Is this normal? Cause this is annoying and makes me want to rage quit back to stock cat.