And longer life to everything made of plastic attached to the engine..

Which is everything..

Oh yea, cooler turbo = no more hood scoop warpage!

 

It would be nice to auto-enable the sport button. And it would also be nice to disable the exhaust pop. The gurgle I like, the pop not so much.

 

This could be an option for you if it works with your year: http://www.waymotorworks.com/auto-sp...de-module.html

http://www.fes-auto.com/products_det...p?productid=24

Still have your pop though.

Sent from my XT926 using NAMotoring

 

Oh come on now.....that's like Rice Krispies with only the "snap" and "crackle"

 

Thats exactly what I do here in CR. Enough snow pack and slick spots, I don't need to be spinning my tires at intersections all the time.

 

I would verify those modules will still work with a 2013. iirc, MINI has changed the method used to trigger the sport setting such that the modules we used in the past will no longer work.

 

Does anyone know the answer to this? No info on the FES website as to 2013 R56's not working with this module. Anyone here tried? TIA!

 

I played around with the sport mode for various reasons, in part to confirm the lower engine temp setpoint for sport mode. It's confirmed for my 2013 R56s. I've been mostly driving in sport mode because I like it better. Now after driving in normal mode, when I parked the car I noticed that the hood was steaming (engine idling)! It was raining with ambient temp around 38 degrees. I was really surprised that the hood gets that hot - this was just after mild around town driving. My car is a 2013 R56s, so it has the hood scoop with a few of the honeycomb elements open (as OEM) for some small amount of airflow. Now I can really imagine how after hard driving in warmer weather the hood scoop might have warped in models without any air flow through the scoop.
Then while idling I switched into sport mode, and the engine temperature rapidly dropped and the steaming stopped.

This leads me to wonder about the following uses of sport mode:

1) for engine cool-down after a hard run, if you are still in regular mode. It would seem that while idling to cool down this would be more effective in sport mode.

2) it would also seem that the pressure of the coolant system would be lower in sport mode (temp below boiling point of water, rather than above). This in turn would suggest that if one is ever in a situation with a small coolant leak but a need to drive (i.e. to mechanic) it would be better to drive in sport mode to run at lower coolant system pressure?

Anyway, just thinking out loud. Any thoughts on this?

 

^ Yup, I sure hop it prevents my scoop from melting.

The thing that's nice, is that on cold start, the engine temp DOES rise to about 220F (105c) before dropping down to 177F (80c). It then goes between 177F and about 185F.

If you stop and restart the car, it will peak again at 220F before dropping back down to 177F. the drop is rapid. I make a point of letting my oil temp get within 10 deg F of coolant temp before shutting down. (IE, oil temp at 187F, coolant at 177F - shut down.).

 

That's interesting, as mine won't do what you describe: in Sport mode it will slowly go up to 85c and stay there, it definitely does not go above 90c. Only rarely have I been able to get above 90 in sport, like when pulling uphill, and only once above 95c. In normal it will go higher, but then quickly drop back down once sport is engaged.

 

Several owners have mentioned the difficulty in pulling away smoothly from rest. I have driven a stick for decades. I adjusted to the Mini. The service software update for 2012s fixed everything! It is smoother to drive than a Toy or Honda. Gone was a clunk from front end during modest acceleration. Yes the Sport mode is still quite noticeable.

 

In that respect I found the biggest "gain" in comfort and ease of driving was the addition of the NM Poly engine mount. I won't claim super power to the wheels, but gone is the "rubber band" worth of engine flex from pulling away at a stop.

I can pretty much just let the clutch out easy in 1st and pull away without chugging. (no gas application). Well worth the $50 and 5 min install.

http://www.nm-eng.com/nm228856-nm-en...rm-insert.html



It simply takes up the "gaps" in the OE mount. nothing to press into for installation., Just bolt it on and go.

 

I appreciate the tip and have considered it. My experience is after the software upgrade there is no slop apparent within the drivers compartment. I too entertain changing the bushing. Some bushing changes on some cars send enough vibrations to the human compartment to diminish the driving experience. Some folks won't turn on their air cond because of the vibration. Personally I like firm suspensions and no slop. However if I want full race then I get a full race car and enjoy that. If I want the compromise that the Mini is then I take it like it is. When I do the bushing swap I will test several firmnesses and from different manufacturers.

To repeat, the software upgrade which can affect how long a hydraulic valve in the trans stays open or closed or affect the advance improved driveability 100%. I was going to have them replace the lower engine mount under warranty at 10,000 mi. thinking that was the cause.

 

Valve? There is no valve that is hydraulic in the R56 6 speed trans. The only thing internal to the trans to limit vibration is the dual mass flywheel (and of course the torsion springs on the clutch marcel).. (If I'm wrong please let me know..)... I know our motor mounts are also non-electronic like some cars to limit vibration.. so that' can't be it.

I guess your car is an auto? I'm talking about taking off in 1st with a stick.

The vibrations from the NM mount are pretty much completely non existent even in -15c weather. My wife (super picky about my mods and how the effect the ride of the car) never even picked up on the fact that it was done. I didn't perceive any real change in vibration or noise at all once it was installed. Its very livable I drive in traffic every day with it. Its nothing like the solid/delrin mounts used in some other cars that make the change in the ash tray sing opera..

I'm pretty sure the software update adjusted the fuel sequence for better take off drivability. I'm not aware of changes to the trans..

 

It's a stick. I was generalizing about all the possible changes a software upgrade could do too any of our cars. Vacuum changes for instance.
I complained of a clunk intermittently when putting lever in first at rest. It's completely gone. Now I know some auto makers have silent recalls and fix stuff without admitting it. They may have a notice to replace X if the customer complains of Y.
Many Japanese manufacturers do this. Fiction: Acura finds out that numerous cars have water leaks on driver's side. While you're in for your 10,000 service they replace the weather stripping of the drivers door. You never had a leak. Yet at a cocktail party you brag that your car never has anything wrong with it while turning up your nose at the Euro owners.
Thanks with that recommendation I may well try one in the spring.

 

Sing Opera - LOL!!

 

With the auto trans, I actually prefer NOT engaging the Sport button in heavy traffic...I find it's easier to modulate acceleration in slow bumper to bumper traffic than with the sport button engaged. As soon as I see daylight I switch to Sport mode.