I am still very new to the Mini...I have only owned my 2008 MCS for two weeks. I did a search for this and didn't really find anything other than recomendations to put on camber plates if you needed adjustment for the track...which I do. This past weekend I did springs and adjustable Camber Plates...question is this:

Are they a little louder, kinda clunky sounding? Not really loud, just barely noticeable if the radio is off. We got the struts tightened down just to the point that the camber plate mounting head could be rotated to get it into place, any tighter and it would not move...so we know that is tight.

Just curious if that is normal. I know on my RX-8 when I went to coilovers there was a very similar sound in the rears that was considered normal and part of the deal...

Thanks for any advice...

 

I have Vorshlag camber plates on my MINI with KWV2 coilovers. The key to avoiding spring knocking noises was to retain the rubber pad between the spring perch and the spring. We just reused the rubber from the OEM struts.

 

I re-used all of the rubber pads between the springs and the spring perch. We spent extra time to make sure they were seated properly.

Eventually I will put coilovers on...but I need to sell the other car first.

 

I'm not familiar enough with IE plates, but the Vorshlags were pretty solid. If there was any slop it was a few thousandths, but nothing that would make any clacking or banging noises.

 

I am wondering if the shocks are going...they are the OEM shocks and have 66K miles on them...

 

My H&R camber plates have always made a little more noise and added a little NVH to the car when compared to the OEM top mount. The camber plates replaced rubber parts with metal plates/bushings/bearings so I would expect a little extra noise/feel.

However, if a louder clunk your top strut nut might not be tight and thus allowing the spring to move a little too much in the perch.

Also, I notice a little extra noise/feel when the top bearings need to be cleaned and lubed. The bearings tend to start binding up after a year or so and need a little TLC.

 

we cranked the springs down as much as we could and got that top nut at tight as we could...might have to take it apart and do it again...I think it is just the metal to metal connections...its not that loud, can't hear it over the radio at low volume.

 

a little update...it appears that no matter how tight I get the top strut lock nut...it is backing off...seems like a common problem for a lot of strut rods...common fix is some loctite...gonna have to try that out...can't do the coilovers just yet...

 

Loctite will probably work. Other thought is to get a new nylon locking nut.

 

nylon lock nut is one other thing I considered...but I really don't want to take it all apart again, and jack up my new alignment...I can only assume that it is not safe to remove that nut while the strut/spring assembly is still on the car.

 

How are you planning to add Loctite without removing the nut or getting it backed off enough to get Loctite on the nut or strut threads (under the nut)? Just adding Loctite to the top of the nut at the strut threads will not be adequate because the Loctite needs to be on the strut and nut threads where they thread together and where the air gap is eliminated to the Loctite to adhere/cure properly. Also remember to let the Loctite cure for the proper amount of time based on the air temperature.

 

I was going to put the loctite on the top end of the nut, all the way around, back the nut to the top and then add some more and tighten it back down...if that doesn't work, then I have to take it all apart. Which I really don't want to do.

 

That might work. I would put the Loctite around the top, then just back it off a few threads, add more Loctite and tighten back down. We do not want to back off very many threads because you want to keep the initial Loctite application in the threads where the nut will stop again when tightened down. The key is not to lose/wipe all the Loctite onto strut threads where the nut will not even be when tightened down.

 

that was the plan, I don't want it to back all the way off.

 

If you can get to the top nut with the suspension still on the car you could take the top nut off. It's not going to go anywhere. Just make sure the suspension is at least lightly loaded so the strut doesn't fall out of the bottom of the camber plate.

Camber plates make noise. Usually slight noises but my Vorshlag plates aren't exactly quiet. The IE plates should be much less noisy since they're not solid metal like the Vorshlag plates.

 

I can get that top nut off with the suspension on the car...but wasn't sure if that would be a really bad thing or not! Good to know the plates should be a little noisy, that noise is not bad but when that nut gets loose, it is very noticeable.

 

With the car on the ground, there should be enough load on the springs that you can remove the top nut. Happy with the TSW's?

Have fun,
Mike

 

Gave it a shot tonight. .. can't get the but all the way off. Got a decent but of Loctite on both so we will see. Love the TSW springs. Very nice ride but it raised it which was what I needed.

 

If there are enough threads coming through the nut, you can also run a second nut down onto it. Hold the one with one wrench, tighten the new nut against it with a second wrench. That's "double-nutting" or adding a "jam nut". If that doesn't hold, something is really seriously wrong...

Is the original nut a locking nut? Does it have a plastic insert (e.g., Nyloc nut) or is it deformed? Does the threaded part have a slot in it that would normally fit a tab on the inside of the washer?

One of my previous cars had that last setup. You folded up the edge of the washer along one of the flats of the nut, and that held it in place.

 

Original nut is not a locking nut. NO nyloc insert either...I am going to look for one of those to use as a jamb nut and also loctite the primary...I actually tightened them down on Tuesday night as tight as I could get them and I don't think they have backed off any.