Hey guys, before i get some new parts installed (have another thread on here) i want to fix this PCV issue. went to block of both rear PCV ports and vent front drivers side (from valve cover to turbo inlet) to atmosphere, was that totally wrong procedure? do i vent drivers side rear, and front, and cap passenger side rear?

thiking the PCV is crap as is right now, when idling and remove the oil fill cap car starts to sputter and idle oscillates does not idle normal until cap replaced (and it vacuums to engine when loose but sitting in place)... when both rear PCV ports capped and front turbo side still connected car also runs like **** and get small amount of smoke out exhaust at idle.

is this PCV valve/valve cover fubar and needs replaced? would like to VTA and delete PCV as i want no coking in new turbo

 

There's not too much you can for the PCV issue at the moment. Many have tried and had the issues you're having as well as consuming oil at a quick rate. I'm sure if you do an advanced search you will find the thread(s) I'm thinking of. Some say an oil catch can works. Others say it's a band-aid fix and therefor a waste of money. The only thing that keeps the valves and everything clean is a meth injection kit which can be expensive but it solves the carbon build up problem. Personally, I think the catch can helps and anything that helps or stalls the carbon build up is worth it to me. I have the BSH oil catch can and in January I have budgeted funds for a meth injection kit. That should keep my valves and everything pretty clean.

Now if you are concerned about the life of your turbo I would talk to countryboyshane or ra2fanatic on here. They pretty much have done and/or seen it all and they're always good for advice. I know that the OEM turbo oil lines (for the N14 engines) have been known to be faulty. I would recommend swapping it for this unit:

http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...urbo-oil-line/

It's really a cheap fix to prevent a future pricey repair. Other than that you may want to look at some decent oil, wrapping the turbo/downpipe to minimize the air mass the turbo has to push out. I would look into a better diverter valve as well. The Forge unit is good. I have an Alta unit which I really like (some people hate Alta though). A different diverter valve can help reduce wear and tear of the turbo. How much though... I wouldn't be able to quantify....

http://www.sneed4speed.com/products/...motor-oil.html

http://altaperformance.com/i-1400717...bo-engine.html (what I have)

Hope some of this helped. The PCV issue is tricky for a lot of people. I haven't bothered messing with it, but I at least wanted to give you some other options/thoughts.

 

Awesome information man!! thank you very very much! I went ahead and got a new updated oil line with its heat shieof from jmturbocoops where I got the turbo.
I'm trying to see if this pcv is functioning correctly, as I feel the engine shouldn't suck the oil cap down during idle or run like crap with the cap off, but I will keep searching and probably pm the guys you mentioned. Shane helped me on my other thread he's a very knowledgeable guy. I also see czar knows a lot about the pcv function too.

 

When the oil cap is off, and the idle is unstable, it shows that the PCV is working properly. The crankcase should be under vacuum in most conditions, to suck the fumes out. By removing the oil cap, you are basically creating a vacuum leak. There are a few threads about the PCV system, and like posted above, there are several theories about how it should work.

I have an OCC, and I get a bunch of dirty water out in cooler weather. I still have some carbon buildup in my intake ports (its been 30k miles since cleaning), and I'm planning on getting this blasted out soon. Meth is a good option, but I think that you need a tune to use it effectively. Not that a tune is a bad idea....

Have fun,
Mike

 

you can vent both the passenger and drivers side pcv to atmosphere. that's what i do. you just need to cap the inlet into the intake manifold and then put a plug on the turbo inlet. i have had no issues with burning oil or anything like that. it's not exactly legal emisions wise but o well. it cost me me about 15$ for the cap and plug so im good haha.

 

awesome thats just the info i was looking for! thank you fellas much appreciated

 

As far as coking goes a good step to take is using the proper oil goes a long way; acea a3 b3 European standard; the only brand I use is castrol edge.
Sent from phone

 

+1 i use castrol edge with titanium 5w30. works great for me!

 

Actually Castrol edge titanium isnt either a3/b3 or a5/b5; Assuming your using 5w-30.

 

well i change my oil every 5,000 miles so im not really concerned with bmw long life specs. in my opinion as long as you use a top brand full synthetic engine oil your engine will be good to go. i have used redline 5w30 but because of availability i switched to edge titanium. i like to use the best oil available and from what i have read the titanium is the best castrol overs. i have had no issues with oil burning, my oil looks fine and my car being a 07 has no leaks what so ever and runs great. i think edge with titanium is working just fine.

 

I was not intending to insult you if I did and if so I apologies. My wording wasn't very good either, this is a video link to jm turbo, whos very knowledgeable and does fantastic rebuild, upgrades. It should shed some more light, better then I can.

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this is a link to acea specs http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/fi..._Sequences.pdf