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R56 How can I be sure my dealer changed my oil?

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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #26  
RAYGUNZAP's Avatar
RAYGUNZAP
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From: Seattle, Wa.
They use an oil can, filling it to a line. Quick and easy! Was your engine over filled? This would not be good.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #27  
runswithsizzers's Avatar
runswithsizzers
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Thanks to all who contributed.

I've about decided that the oil most likely did get changed, and if the new oil looks darker than I remember from previous oil changes, it's probably due to several factors, including:
The old oil was in the engine for 1500 miles longer than any previous oil change, therefore was probably dirtier. The dealer probably doesn't let the old oil drain out quite as long as I do, or wipe out the couple of tablespoons left in the bottom of the oil filter canister - so there may have been a bit more old oil mixed in with the new than what I'm used to seeing.

The word trust has been mentioned a few times - and opinions offered about why I should, or should not, trust the dealer. Interesting. I bought the car new in 2010, and in the 3 years I've owned it, I've had exactly 2 routine service visits, a couple of phone calls, and one or two emails. It's not like I drink beer and shoot pool with these guys.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #28  
ZIPPY "S"'s Avatar
ZIPPY "S"
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Originally Posted by runswithsizzers
Thanks to all who contributed.

I've about decided that the oil most likely did get changed, and if the new oil looks darker than I remember from previous oil changes, it's probably due to several factors, including:
The old oil was in the engine for 1500 miles longer than any previous oil change, therefore was probably dirtier. The dealer probably doesn't let the old oil drain out quite as long as I do, or wipe out the couple of tablespoons left in the bottom of the oil filter canister - so there may have been a bit more old oil mixed in with the new than what I'm used to seeing.

The word trust has been mentioned a few times - and opinions offered about why I should, or should not, trust the dealer. Interesting. I bought the car new in 2010, and in the 3 years I've owned it, I've had exactly 2 routine service visits, a couple of phone calls, and one or two emails. It's not like I drink beer and shoot pool with these guys.
wait..you don't shoot pool or drink beer with these guys!! ha ha After seeing your pic of your oil I would say it def. has been changed.lol.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #29  
RAYGUNZAP's Avatar
RAYGUNZAP
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Seattle, Wa.
Originally Posted by runswithsizzers
Thanks! Just the kind of reply I was hoping to get - and it backs up my previous experience.

If anybody has a low mileage justa with less than a few hundred miles on a recent oil change I would love to know what your oil looks like on a white paper towel.

I've tried to add a photo to show what I'm talking about.
That oil looks pretty clean... Was it overfilled?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #30  
runswithsizzers's Avatar
runswithsizzers
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Originally Posted by RAYGUNZAP
That oil looks pretty clean... Was it overfilled?
Nope - fill level was correct.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #31  
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cobrasvt
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In my experience your oil on the white towel looks new. I change oil in my 2002-2006 minis every 5K and it ends to stay about that color on white paper towel when I check it every week. The GP I recently picked up had been ruining on the previous oil change for 9K and the oil was definitely black.

I also recommend oil analysis with Blacksone Labs about every 15K miles. They can't necessarily tell you the age of the oil. That information is something they need to do a comparative analysis from their database of similar vehicles and age of the oil in the engine.

Moving forward, doing you own oil changes can be fairly easy. Filters are available from multiple sources. Since raising the GP is a PITA anyway, I find that using a marine oil vacuum extraction tank does a great job at removing all the oil and all you need to do for the filter is let the engine cool down and remove the top of the filter canister with a 36mm wrench. There should be no oil splillage.

I use the vacuum extraction pump on all the vehicles I keep here in Seattle because it saves a lot of time and it is a standard tool I keep in all my workshops. Shop cost for the tool is about $45 or $65 at local marine equipment suppliers.
 
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