R56 turbo oil cooler line
We've been selling both the OEM kit and our own SS line kit. It really comes down to a person preference of which one you think will work better. The SS line kit is easier to install, and has some nice fitting on it without any seals that can dry out.
Yes I know our pic is not working, but I have to have my webguy fix it.
Yes I know our pic is not working, but I have to have my webguy fix it.
I was at his place at 11am. He had a few other suggestions. He knows Mini's well ! Back to my place by Noon and drove home at 6. NO more leaks. I didn't have to remove the turbo. Great kit Way ! Your the Man !
You are not taking the oil filter housing off so no you do not need it.
On the fire hazard issue, do you realize how much oil would have to come out for it to catch fire? Not enough for a tiny crack in that line. Now if it blew out and you shot say a 1/4 quart of something along those line then maybe just maybe it would catch.
On the fire hazard issue, do you realize how much oil would have to come out for it to catch fire? Not enough for a tiny crack in that line. Now if it blew out and you shot say a 1/4 quart of something along those line then maybe just maybe it would catch.
Got the kit in today and will be doing the install on Saturday. Does anyone have the required tools to complete this job? Like I said earlier, I have metric tools and I believe I don't need anything special. Can someone confirm this for me? Thanks.
Gear wrench then press on to hold the bolt To the wrench. There are two hidden bolts one in the front shield middle upper left looking from underneath. The other is in the back shield in the middle.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
Also DT says that I may need MINI Oil Filter Housing Seals: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-oil...housing-seals/
Is it necessary to get this? I don't think I need this. Is this replacing the seal where the oil pan is located?
I am definitely getting the downpipe clamp, since it has been removed from the car 3x:
http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-coo...ownpipe-clamp/
the downpipe gasket: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...wnpipe-gasket/
and the oil line heat shield: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...e-heat-sheild/
Is it necessary to get this? I don't think I need this. Is this replacing the seal where the oil pan is located?
I am definitely getting the downpipe clamp, since it has been removed from the car 3x:
http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-coo...ownpipe-clamp/
the downpipe gasket: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...wnpipe-gasket/
and the oil line heat shield: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...e-heat-sheild/
Let us know how we can help.
Chad
Detroit Tuned.
__________________
Last edited by Detroit Tuned; Apr 5, 2013 at 10:59 AM.
It all depends on the leaks your having and how your have maintained your car, as well were you live. The oil gaskets are only on a hand full of cars that are really covered in oil that have had no maintained with lots of heat that have caused them to fail. The down pipe gasket is a good idea to have on hand and you will not know if you need it till apart. The exhaust clamp is more needed on cars that see more rust. The small heat shield is not really needed with the DT made line but can bee added for more of an OEM look. We also have a link to some general directions.
Let us know how we can help.
Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Let us know how we can help.
Chad
Detroit Tuned.
want ti go to lean because of a leak. 9.95 is cheap insurance
It all depends on the leaks your having and how your have maintained your car, as well were you live. The oil gaskets are only on a hand full of cars that are really covered in oil that have had no maintained with lots of heat that have caused them to fail. The down pipe gasket is a good idea to have on hand and you will not know if you need it till apart. The exhaust clamp is more needed on cars that see more rust. The small heat shield is not really needed with the DT made line but can bee added for more of an OEM look. We also have a link to some general directions.
Let us know how we can help.
Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Let us know how we can help.
Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
item #5
__________________
Last edited by Detroit Tuned; Apr 5, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
I would definitely recommend these two specific tools:
The left tool is a Kobalt Double Drive Rachet. It allows you to use a rachet like normal, but then in tight to reach areas (like you are going to have when working in the MINI and not placing the car in service mode [removal of front bumper]) it allows you to twist the hand left or right to rachet away. It is a great tool and I used it a great deal. The right tool is just a 1/4" rachet with copper pipe attached via foil tape. Came in helpful when I had didn't have the double drive rachet (dad went out and picked one up for me)as well as really tight and small areas when removing the heat shields.

I have attached the instructions I used from a different thread. I have 2009 MCS and these instructions are for a 2007, so I made a note on this PDF and re-titled it 2007 to 2009. I know that R56 is from the years 2007-2012, but I am not aware of any bolts being different, since the 2011 is when they added the oil infeed line shield to the engine (MINI Preventive solution for the time being). I am not going to run through my entire start to finish process, but if anyone has any question(s) I have no problem answering to the best of my ability for the before or during process.
Thanks to everyone that helped me out. Detroit Tuned Line FOR THE WIN!!
Note: The instructions show pics of the OEM infeed line, but it does not much matter. He says in one line that the oil return line just needs to be wiggled out- that for the life is a complete and utter fail and/or you will have to give it some elbow grease to remove it from the underneath of the turbo. I also used vice grips to hold and release the clip to remove the rubber hose from engine block.
Thanks for the really detailed writeup speedracer! The kobalt double drive looks like a really handy tool, I think i'll pick one up myself when I do the oil line replacement. I'm not much of a mechanic myself having only done such replacements such as air filter replacement and factory alarm install on an 06 325i.
Buy the Turbo Oil Line heat shield at ECS.
It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/
Just a tip!
It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/
Just a tip!
Buy the Turbo Oil Line heat shield at ECS.
It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/
Just a tip!
It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/
Just a tip!
Thanks for the really detailed writeup speedracer! The kobalt double drive looks like a really handy tool, I think i'll pick one up myself when I do the oil line replacement. I'm not much of a mechanic myself having only done such replacements such as air filter replacement and factory alarm install on an 06 325i.
No worries. Its annoying when things fail due to poor quality and MINI does not own up and replace/recall the part. Its always nice to be able to go on the forum and ask for help/assistance when one of us is in need. Happy to return the favor to provide more info.
@SpeedRacer0212 I know... I purchase by from Detroit Tuned and I was so **** to see they charge 28 dollar for a 5.70 product. 491% mark up if you do the math.
The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.
Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.
Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
@SpeedRacer0212 I know... I purchase by from Detroit Tuned and I was so **** to see they charge 28 dollar for a 5.70 product. 491% mark up if you do the math.
The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.
Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.
Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.








terrified for certain, Porthos, very funny!