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R56 turbo oil cooler line

Old Mar 29, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #26  
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From: Woodstock,GA
Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
We've been selling both the OEM kit and our own SS line kit. It really comes down to a person preference of which one you think will work better. The SS line kit is easier to install, and has some nice fitting on it without any seals that can dry out.

Yes I know our pic is not working, but I have to have my webguy fix it.
Hats off to Way and Crew at Way Motor Works !. I bought one of there turbo oil line kits today.
I was at his place at 11am. He had a few other suggestions. He knows Mini's well ! Back to my place by Noon and drove home at 6. NO more leaks. I didn't have to remove the turbo. Great kit Way ! Your the Man !
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 09:00 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Porthos
You are not taking the oil filter housing off so no you do not need it.

On the fire hazard issue, do you realize how much oil would have to come out for it to catch fire? Not enough for a tiny crack in that line. Now if it blew out and you shot say a 1/4 quart of something along those line then maybe just maybe it would catch.
I do not know how much it would really take to catch on fire, but oil leaking anywhere could catch fire. It just something else to mention and comment on when I write my letters.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 09:01 AM
  #28  
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Got the kit in today and will be doing the install on Saturday. Does anyone have the required tools to complete this job? Like I said earlier, I have metric tools and I believe I don't need anything special. Can someone confirm this for me? Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #29  
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Curious. Did you guys change out the oil return line as well? Or just stick with the turbo oil line.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #30  
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I was told to also change out the return line. You're in there so you might as well do it. In addition you probably have oil over it so it's probably just messing with the seals anyway.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #31  
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Looking forward to hearing about the process, I'm planning on doing the same thing as soon as the summer comes.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #32  
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From: Woodstock,GA
Originally Posted by SpeedRacer0212
I was told to also change out the return line. You're in there so you might as well do it. In addition you probably have oil over it so it's probably just messing with the seals anyway.
Yes I replaced the oil return also. Metric gear wrenches are helpful. Put. Piece of paper towel in the
Gear wrench then press on to hold the bolt To the wrench. There are two hidden bolts one in the front shield middle upper left looking from underneath. The other is in the back shield in the middle.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SpeedRacer0212
Also DT says that I may need MINI Oil Filter Housing Seals: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-oil...housing-seals/

Is it necessary to get this? I don't think I need this. Is this replacing the seal where the oil pan is located?

I am definitely getting the downpipe clamp, since it has been removed from the car 3x:
http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-coo...ownpipe-clamp/
the downpipe gasket: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...wnpipe-gasket/
and the oil line heat shield: http://www.detroittuned.com/mini-gen...e-heat-sheild/
It all depends on the leaks your having and how your have maintained your car, as well were you live. The oil gaskets are only on a hand full of cars that are really covered in oil that have had no maintainence with lots of heat that have caused them to fail. The down pipe gasket is a good idea to have on hand and you will not know if you need it till apart. The exhaust clamp is more needed on cars that see more rust. The small heat shield is not really needed with the DT made line but can bee added for more of an OEM look. We also have a link to some general directions.

Let us know how we can help.

Chad
Detroit Tuned.
 
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Last edited by Detroit Tuned; Apr 5, 2013 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2013 | 05:36 PM
  #34  
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From: Woodstock,GA
Originally Posted by Detroit Tuned
It all depends on the leaks your having and how your have maintained your car, as well were you live. The oil gaskets are only on a hand full of cars that are really covered in oil that have had no maintained with lots of heat that have caused them to fail. The down pipe gasket is a good idea to have on hand and you will not know if you need it till apart. The exhaust clamp is more needed on cars that see more rust. The small heat shield is not really needed with the DT made line but can bee added for more of an OEM look. We also have a link to some general directions.

Let us know how we can help.

Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Hey Speed, I agree with Detroit. Get the down pipe clamp and the down pipe turbo exhaust gasket. You don't
want ti go to lean because of a leak. 9.95 is cheap insurance
 
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Old Apr 4, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #35  
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From: Woodstock,GA
Originally Posted by Detroit Tuned
It all depends on the leaks your having and how your have maintained your car, as well were you live. The oil gaskets are only on a hand full of cars that are really covered in oil that have had no maintained with lots of heat that have caused them to fail. The down pipe gasket is a good idea to have on hand and you will not know if you need it till apart. The exhaust clamp is more needed on cars that see more rust. The small heat shield is not really needed with the DT made line but can bee added for more of an OEM look. We also have a link to some general directions.

Let us know how we can help.

Chad
Detroit Tuned.
Detroit, do you have an illustration as to where the oil filter housing gaskets go ?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #36  
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item #5

 
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Last edited by Detroit Tuned; Apr 5, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 02:39 PM
  #37  
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What is #4 it looks terrified?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #38  
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I believe that's a heat exchanger.....the stock oil cooler.

Any pros around to yay or nay this?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #39  
ladhartley
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Originally Posted by Porthos
What is #4 it looks terrified?
terrified for certain, Porthos, very funny!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #40  
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Any one know what the book hours are to replace the oil filter housing gaskets?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 11:09 AM
  #41  
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Is it leaking? If not, don't bother.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 01:04 PM
  #42  
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what is #4 it looks terrified?
lmao
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 07:30 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 3lusive
Looking forward to hearing about the process, I'm planning on doing the same thing as soon as the summer comes.
Well that was the most time consuming repair and/or removal and replacement job I have yet to do on the car. Like everyone had said it was not hard at all, but it was definitely labor intensive. After it was all said and done it took me a total of 7.5 hrs to complete. It was 4 hrs of disassembling the heat shields and downpipe. (So bolt locations were really tough to get started and then you had to get your hands in locations that didn't allow for tools and use your hands to work out the bolt.) 30mins for removal of OEM infeed line/OEM return line and reassemble of Detroit Tuned infeed line/OEM return line. 3hrs for reassemble of heat shields, new down-pipe gasket, down-pipe, and new exhaust v-clamp.

I would definitely recommend these two specific tools:
The left tool is a Kobalt Double Drive Rachet. It allows you to use a rachet like normal, but then in tight to reach areas (like you are going to have when working in the MINI and not placing the car in service mode [removal of front bumper]) it allows you to twist the hand left or right to rachet away. It is a great tool and I used it a great deal. The right tool is just a 1/4" rachet with copper pipe attached via foil tape. Came in helpful when I had didn't have the double drive rachet (dad went out and picked one up for me)as well as really tight and small areas when removing the heat shields.
turbo oil cooler line-2babowe.jpg

I have attached the instructions I used from a different thread. I have 2009 MCS and these instructions are for a 2007, so I made a note on this PDF and re-titled it 2007 to 2009. I know that R56 is from the years 2007-2012, but I am not aware of any bolts being different, since the 2011 is when they added the oil infeed line shield to the engine (MINI Preventive solution for the time being). I am not going to run through my entire start to finish process, but if anyone has any question(s) I have no problem answering to the best of my ability for the before or during process.

Thanks to everyone that helped me out. Detroit Tuned Line FOR THE WIN!!
Note: The instructions show pics of the OEM infeed line, but it does not much matter. He says in one line that the oil return line just needs to be wiggled out- that for the life is a complete and utter fail and/or you will have to give it some elbow grease to remove it from the underneath of the turbo. I also used vice grips to hold and release the clip to remove the rubber hose from engine block.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #44  
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I forgot about that Kobalt wrench. That thing saved my life doing the same thing you just did. Well kind of I took of and rebuild my turbo.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #45  
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Thanks for the really detailed writeup speedracer! The kobalt double drive looks like a really handy tool, I think i'll pick one up myself when I do the oil line replacement. I'm not much of a mechanic myself having only done such replacements such as air filter replacement and factory alarm install on an 06 325i.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #46  
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Buy the Turbo Oil Line heat shield at ECS.

It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/

Just a tip!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ch28Kid
Buy the Turbo Oil Line heat shield at ECS.

It's A LOT cheaper than other vendors.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...ine/ES2596861/

Just a tip!
Wow, what a uber fail. I spent $28.00 on the heat shield available Detroit Tuned. This one for esctuning is waaaaaaaay cheap. ($5.70) FTW Ch28kid. Good looking. Everyone is saying the oil line shield is not needed, but I figured anything to help against the heat will be in my favor.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 07:22 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 3lusive
Thanks for the really detailed writeup speedracer! The kobalt double drive looks like a really handy tool, I think i'll pick one up myself when I do the oil line replacement. I'm not much of a mechanic myself having only done such replacements such as air filter replacement and factory alarm install on an 06 325i.

No worries. Its annoying when things fail due to poor quality and MINI does not own up and replace/recall the part. Its always nice to be able to go on the forum and ask for help/assistance when one of us is in need. Happy to return the favor to provide more info.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #49  
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@SpeedRacer0212 I know... I purchase by from Detroit Tuned and I was so **** to see they charge 28 dollar for a 5.70 product. 491% mark up if you do the math.

The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.

Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 11:32 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Ch28Kid
@SpeedRacer0212 I know... I purchase by from Detroit Tuned and I was so **** to see they charge 28 dollar for a 5.70 product. 491% mark up if you do the math.

The oil shield is need. It is fitted in all the newer MINI Cooper S. The engineers know the turbo gives off too much heat causing the oil to cook on the top. After many heat cycles and a combination of old oil, making it more acidic (sulphuric acid + carbonic acid), the acid eats away the metal/rubber part inside your engine including the turbo oil line seal.

Having the oil shield just reduce the amount of heat and help mitigate the damage. I'm sure the new oil line will wear over time but the shield does help.
About two weeks ago I bought a 2008 cooper S hatch with 39000 miles on it from a private party. I haven't had the chance to get the service records from the dealer but do you think that putting on the oil heat shield now would help mitigate the damage done by or lengthen the service time of the turbo oil line? I was planning on replacing the oil line in a few weeks anyways...
 
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