R56 Oil Change Issue...
:-)
You'll have to try again. Given the fallacious logic used, there doesn't seem to be anything for me to respond to.
Be glad you don't have to change your oil after 500 miles..... Ok I only have to do that because all of the machine work I had done. But still it sucks. I normally change it every 6 months or so. Once when winter ends and once halfway through summer.

The point was that your reference to the reliability of manufacturer specification is arbitrary and silly in this instance as the entire forum and the aftermarket that supports it is predicated on the belief that there are many deficiencies from the mini from the factory, or at the very least, many ways to upgrade it (the two I mentioned in that post (run flats, mtl), ceramic brake pads, torque arm, anti-sway, etc.). If you care to argue instead that there is no difference between synthetic after 5k vs. 15k in turbocharged applications, you can contend that, though I do not agree.
I knew when I started this thread that there are others out there, but I never thought folks opinions could be so different. It's all either follow MINI or do what you have always done. It is very interesting. I am super glad for folks input.
As a new point, I called MINI of El Paso and they refused to change oil until the car said 1k or less until a change was due. To be honest, I did 8k oil changes on my last MINI, but it was also out of the maintenance plan so I did them myself. It cost me $55 in parts from the dealer. One thing MINI of EP does great is that they offer great prices on filters and oil. I am getting the most out of my current maintenance plan though. It is interesting how things vary dealer to dealer...
As a new point, I called MINI of El Paso and they refused to change oil until the car said 1k or less until a change was due. To be honest, I did 8k oil changes on my last MINI, but it was also out of the maintenance plan so I did them myself. It cost me $55 in parts from the dealer. One thing MINI of EP does great is that they offer great prices on filters and oil. I am getting the most out of my current maintenance plan though. It is interesting how things vary dealer to dealer...
Last edited by Laardilla21; Feb 26, 2013 at 10:13 AM.
And, the 10k oil change interval is legit. BUT, only after a certain build date for 2012 cars. Mine, a February 2012 build, is not included, which means per the maintenance plan, I can only get changes at 15k for free. :(((((
Turbo cool down
I put more than 250K on my turbo before I sold it and never had any trouble with coking. One thing I always did before shutting down was allow the turbo to cool down at idle for a min. or so to flush the bearing compartment with relatively cooler oil. Cheap insurance in my book.
I put more than 250K on my turbo before I sold it and never had any trouble with coking. One thing I always did before shutting down was allow the turbo to cool down at idle for a min. or so to flush the bearing compartment with relatively cooler oil. Cheap insurance in my book.
I put more than 250K on my turbo before I sold it and never had any trouble with coking. One thing I always did before shutting down was allow the turbo to cool down at idle for a min. or so to flush the bearing compartment with relatively cooler oil. Cheap insurance in my book.
I do this as well. I actually read its better to keep the RPMs up a little during the cool down (1.5k or so, keep the thing spooling just a touch) so what I do is drive the very last leg of my ride home (through my neighborhood etc.) in a gear higher than normal (4th) and keep the engine at low rpms. The corollary advantage is that I haven't been bothered by the speed trap that nabs people for doing 35 in a 30 or for a short stretch, 25 in a 20 (f-ing absurd!).
There really is no need to do this any longer. Another one of those old things that have has yet to fade away. I know people in the Suby realm that have beasts that don't do this so I can't see a new MINI needing it either.
Only if you are running 400+ on a highly modified engine. If it was still necessary it would most likely be a factory option.
Everyone has their own methods or beliefs.
Only if you are running 400+ on a highly modified engine. If it was still necessary it would most likely be a factory option.
Like the mini does.
If you want to sit in your car and "let it cool" then by all means go for it. I'm just saying that it is pointless. If you are that crazy about it, why not buy a timer for it?
Last edited by daflake; Feb 27, 2013 at 04:17 PM.
What part? And If you drove an STI to 9/10th and then just stopped and turned off the car you don't think that would cause a oil burning issue? Maybe not I think the new STI has a built in circulating pump, not positive on that one though
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465156
It really is a good read.

FYI, this guy has been around the Subaru environment for a long time.
Daflake he only touches on the fact that coolant resevoir tank that's above the turbo up on the left (passenger) side of the engine? Well the coolant entry to the turbo is below it, and the coolant outlet comes off of the top of it and goes right to that resevoir. Basically, even after the engine is off, if the turbo is hot it will continue to circulate the coolant because the coolant inside of the turbo gets heated above the temp of the rest of the coolant and rises up into that resevoir. When that happens cooler coolant from below the turbo gets sucked up into it and it keeps cycling until the difference in the temperature of the turbo and the coolant isn't very big.
So subies do sorta have one.
So subies do sorta have one.
MINIs do have a recirculating pump that runs coolant through the turbo until it's temperature drops to a certain temp. I always let my car run for a bit after hard laps at the track for the sake of oil temps and turbo stuffs. I tend to drive aggressively in town, as well, but I only let it run while I collect my things when I get where I'm going. I just assume the pump will do it's job.


