I was referring to one being safer than the other.

Correct, as I posted "necessitating the use of a wood plank(or something similar)"

Jack stands are "height" adjustable. However, the higher you go with jack stands the less stable they become.

 

I would much rather use a set of ramps with 2 jack stands to lift up the whole car. A car lifted up on 4 jack stands scares me, it just doesn't seem to be stable enough

 

In order to keep the ramps from sliding I clamped a piece of cable to the hole in the front of the ramp. That way you drive on the cable and it holds the ramp still and won't allow it to slide forward.

 

my rhino ramps have a rubber piece on the bottom similar to a ribbed mount for a HVAC unit that holds them still under the weight of the car when you drive onto the ramp, no cables needed.

 

Contact Fred at Reverse Logic. He has some really good options for our Mini's, especially the low approach angle challenged ones. He is a Race Ramps dealer, and, has some of his own designs that are now Race Ramp products.

Great service, fast shipping, and check out his "jack pads" too.

http://www.reverselogic.us/race-ramps.html

Tell him "Mike from Indiana" sent you. And let us know how your experience was after you contact them

-Mike

 

I checked the clearance today on my Rhino 12000 and a 2013 R56 JCW aero kit. They just miss on the front so I guess I will have to use 2X4s or 2X6s to increase the clearance before the ramps.

 

Found this thread while exploring options and wanted to add my $.02 and experience since I've recommended Rhino Ramps in the past (as they worked great on my non-aero '10 and '11 MINIs)...

Just got done installing a NM torque arm insert on my stock height 2012 S with aero kit, couldn't get it up the Rhino Ramps. Had to use the floor jack to jack up each side and slide the ramp under as far as I could then lower the car onto the ramp. The flat rubber bit that sticks down under the bumper was squished up a bit but I was able to drive up onto the ramps the rest of the way and then get back down without damage.

Having to employ the floor jack really takes away the convenience of ramps, and even doing so it was close enough to not working that I'm certain it wouldn't work if I installed a set of lowering springs. When I have an extra $200 laying around I'll be investing in a set of the 56" two piece race ramps.

 

I went with Race Ramps on my '13 R56 JCW and they worked great.

 

It's easier to use about a ~2 foot piece of 2x4 lumber on each ramp. Position the wood with some of it is on the ground and some is on the ramp, then just drive up. No scraping.

It will cost you about $2 for the wood.

I have the aero kit and I'm lowered by 1.2"