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Sometimes the compatment's door gets "stickey." I suggest you push on it, and then release pressure quickly--almost like you are giving it CPR. It may take a few tries but that should pop it open.
Anyone Have any luck getting rid of the "Stickey" compartment door? Mine has a a brushed aluminum cover on it and I can push it a few times and it will finally open but would love to have it as smooth as some that I have seen. I have looked for points to apply a lubricant but the working parts of the hinge seem to be deeper inside the dash. Thanks!
What part of "secret" in "secret compartment" don't you understand?
Not me - I'm an expert in that secret. I had a base R57 for three years which over here comes without the secret compartment so now that I've stepped up to a Chili pack car, I have owned it for three months and still never once remembered to open it......
Anyone Have any luck getting rid of the "Stickey" compartment door? Mine has a a brushed aluminum cover on it and I can push it a few times and it will finally open but would love to have it as smooth as some that I have seen. I have looked for points to apply a lubricant but the working parts of the hinge seem to be deeper inside the dash. Thanks!
Had some good weather the past couple of days and so I got adventurous! Started looking around with a flashlight and found the actual gears that mesh to make the mechanism move in and out (which operates the push to open feature) and sprayed them with a precision sprayer with some white lithium grease. Pushed the lid closed and pushed it to open about three or four times and it works smooth as silk every time now!
I thought I read somewhere the secret compartment was an available as an option. It included the secret compartment, netted storage on passenger side floor area and a netted cargo holder in the boot. My build sheet states mine has this.
Fixed! I should have taken pics of the whole thing but on the left side is a metal bracket that can lock the thing closed if seized up. I fixed that, lubricated the 47 little gears in there and the right side was a tooth off so I fixed that as well. It now works as it should. Biggest pain in the *** was taking the dash apart to get to it. Woo! *ducks black helicopter*
Bugler! Wish you had pics too! Dealer wants $450 to replace the secret compartment. They said a lot of the trim needed to be removed to replace the whole thing. Hoping I can do a fix like yours. Mine needs to be forced to open or close and once it's closed it has to be pryed open. When you took off the cover you were able to access enough of the hinge? Is the metal bracket part of the hinge? Any additional details anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by superducky; Nov 30, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
But I'm wondering about the silver bracket/hinge on the left side. The compartment only seems to open or close if the hinge is in the middle position (see 1st pic, "position 1"). But, on my new one, the hinge slides freely without resistance into any position, whereas in my old one there's definite resistance moving from one position to another. Does anyone know if it's supposed to move freely? I'm afraid on my new part it would move out of the operable position if I hit a bump or something and then it won't open? Not sure why that silver piece even moves if the only way it would open or close is in the middle. I read an earlier post that in some countries the secret compartment is locked. Is this why this piece moves?
Any thoughts? Half thinking about taking the metal wire from the old one and putting it in the new part I got. There are multiple places I think the old compartment failed. So not sure if the silver v-hinge is supposed to move freely or have specific positions.
Position 1: only position of the silver bracket that the Secret Compartment opens and closes
Position 2: tray doesn't open/close/slide, locks shut
Position 3: tray doesn't open/close/slide, locks shut
Easy DIY
