Can anyone provide the proper torque for the OEM light-alloy wheels? My 2009 MCS should be here in a couple of weeks.

Incidentally, what do you remove on the MINI, lug nuts or lug bolts? Most cars I've owned have removable nuts, but I had a TR-3 with removable bolts.

 

I believe all the 14mm lugs are 103 lbft....

 

I am going to take a guess here, but I'm saying lug nuts. Most, if not all, vehicles I've seen had them. Also, I'm assuming the TR-3 was an older vehicle, thus, older technologies / methods.

 

Oops - I missed that part.

All MINIs have lug BOLTS (like BMWs)... unless you've fitted yours with aftermarket studs.

 

It is in the owners manual as well for future reference, BlimeyCabrio is correct at 103 ft-lbs and lug bolts.

 

I only have the online version of the 2008 owner's manual. It shows torque spec for the doughnut spare (which I assume is steel), but no mention of torque spec for the light-alloy OEM wheel. Can you provide a page reference? Thanks!

 

In the 2008 manual, the torque spec is on page 125, under "tightening the lug bolts". It's a little confusing, since it's right after the section on installing the space-saver spare, but trust me - 103 lbf-ft is the correct torque setting whether you're mounting the space-saver or the full-size wheel.

If you download the owner's manual for the 2008 convertible (which uses the same wheels and lug bolts as the coupe), it's a little clearer that the listed torque spec refers to both the space-saver and the full-size wheels.

 

I understand what you are saying and believe you. At the same time, I've looked again at the manual and it still appears to be addressing the space-saver spare only. There doesn't seem to be any encouragement or any instructions for changing out the run flats, even if you carried a mounted spare in the back.

Also seems odd that steel and light-alloy wheels would have same torque spec, but I'll go with what you say. (What do I know: my MINI is in the middle of the Atlantic at the moment!)

 

You're getting good advice here... trust us. Really. I DO know what I'm talking about on this subject... I didn't 5,000 posts ago. But I do now.

So does Scott.

Proper torque has much to do with the bolts/threads and little to do with what they're holding on (steel or alloy)... enough torque that the bolts don't back out... not so much that they strip... if you were putting on wooden wheels, the same rules would apply.

 

...is that a dealer option?

 

It is on page 110 of the PDF manual I downloaded from the Owner's Lounge last year. It is "Online Edition for Part no. 01 41 0 013 069 - © 11/06 BMW AG".

 

A believer that is not a true beliver.

Just for discussion on a similar matter, 103 lb ft is a little on the high side. Most of the non Mini cars I had before recommend around 80 lb ft in Torque.

 

Yes, the 2008 manual is copyright 11/07. I have it because I assume my 2009 MCS will be closer to an '08 than an '07 model. I'm looking forward to the first 2009 owner posting any previously unannounced changes that they find!

 

Did you ever own another car with M14x1.25 pitch lug bolts?

Wooden wheels - coming soon from Robin Casady.

 

A torque spec. is determined by the bolt dia., thread size, clamping load, and bolt material.

The 2nd Gen MINIs have M14 x 1.25 threads, and 103.3 lb ft/140 Nm is the recommended torque. The 1st Gen MINIs had M12 bolts, so 80 lb ft is more appropriate. Don't under-torque your M14s.

 

It is a fairly unusual thread. The standard M14 threads have either fine 1.5 pitch, or course 2.0 pitch. So, 1.25 is unusually fine, which is fine because fine threads tend to be stronger (contrary to what one might think).

I'd need a much bigger lathe, and a whole lot of liability insurance.

 

Actually, 1st gen MINIs made after May 2006 IIRC also have M14x1.25 bolts. Mine is a 1st gen build in Sept 2006 - M14 bolts.

 

My first Mini so no. Most of my other cars are Porsche, BMW etc... So I have to ask as it seems a little high compared to the others.