I am getting ready to do my first post break-in oil change and I have looked at some of the DIY oil-change threads on here. I have all the instructions and the next thing I need to do is to buy the right tools for the oil change. It looks like there are several different tools needed for the oil change. Will someone be kind enough to post a list of all the right tools? Please list the brand of the tools you use and what store you got them from. Include as much detail as you like. I just want to make sure I do not buy the wrong stuff!

 

- 8mm allen key or socket (if a socket, you will need a ratchet): oil drain plug
- 8mm hex wrench or socket (if a socket, you will need a ratchet): coolant reservoir
- 27mm hex socket and 12in extention: oil filter housing
- rags
- oil drain pan

 

Why did you list coolant reservoir on your list?

Also, great thread, this might motivate me to change my oil soon... it's looking a bit dark these days.

 

We need to move the coolant reservoir out of the way first before we can easily reach the oil filter. See the following threads:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght=oil+change

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=117695

 

Only you "S" folks need to do this.

 

what about oil filters? deal going on thru Dec, 2 OEM filters for $20
i just ordered some today.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/Home/tabid/86/Default.aspx

 

Mine takes a T50 torx not an 8mm allen.

 

Hello,

My Cooper also uses the T50 torx for the drain plug. Also, 27 mm = 1-1/16" socket. I use a six point socket to support the hex surfaces on the oil filter cap. A torque wrench to tighten the cap.... 25Nm ( marked on cap ) or approx. 19 ft/lb.
Oil filter should come with new o-ring and drain plug cooper crush gasket.

Brian

 

5 quarts of synthetic oil

If you don't like crawling underneath the car and unscrewing the drain plug, another option is to get something like a Mityvac fluid evacuator and suck the old oil out the dipstick tube.

 

That is what I use as well, but I believe an allen also works. The torx might be less likely to round out the plug socket if the dealer over torqued it.

 

What is the correct torque specification for the drain plug?

MiniMania says 30 Nm or 22 lb-ft. See this link:

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

But the pdf document I found at the following thread says 25 Nm.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=117695

Which torque specification have you guys been using?

 

That PDF has 25 Nm for both the drain plug and the oil filter housing.

I've used MiniMania numbers: torque the oil pan drain plug to 22.0 lbs/ft and the oil filter cap to 18.5 lbs/ft.

 

Alternatively, one can use a Topsider (or similar vacuum device, eg. Griot's) to extract the oil via the dipstick tube. You can then forget about drain plugs, torkx wrenches, oil pans, ramps, hot oil on the hands, etc. Probably takes a little longer than the classic method, due to the modest flow rate of the Topsider extraction hose, but it's easier and much cleaner.

 

It takes all 5?

 

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I am curious if this method would tend to leave more old oil/gunk/nasty whatnot behind than doing a standard gravity drain out of the bottom of the pan. Anyone? Anyone?

 

The MINI takes 4.5 qts.

 

I use a Topsider vacuum to drain the oil from my boat's engines and generator. (There's no way to reach under an oil pan on a mounted marine engine.)

Do you get everything? No.

Do you get as much or more than you would if it was a car angled on a pair of ramps? Sure.

What if the car were level? Almost, but not quite that good.

(BTW, I use straight 30 weight dino oil on the boat.)

 

I did an experiment when I first got my Griott's extractor, using my old 71 VW bug (now sold and gone after 27 years) as a guinea pig. After extraction was done, I pulled the drain, and less than a shot glass of old oil slowly drained out. So I'm thinking my next oil change on the Mini (did the first one via the underside method, and it went fine, not a drop spilled outside of a couple drops while I inspected the filter five feet from the car...wrote it up on this forum) will be using the extractor. These extractor units have been used commercially for a long time, with excellent results. It's your choice; whatever you feel best about. One trick that helps when you bottom drain....run the left side wheels up on two short pieces of 2x4 to get a little more angle out of the pan towards the drain side.
Caution: using the extractor, don't warm the car up more than five minutes tops. Get the oil too screamin hot, that plastic tube that goes in the dipstick holder will melt. Other than that, you give the unit some pumps to build a vacuum and you can go have a cold beer. Pouring oil in doesn't require sobriety. Well, a twelve pack first might be a problem.

 

Absolutely! My boat is at a yacht club, and I only change the oil when the bar is open.

I have 3 motors ... so 3 beers are involved.

 

my dealership said it takes 5 qts

i better go check!

 

Perhaps that is why people are reporting that their dealer over-filled the oil during a scheduled oil change.

 

Here's a place to check -- the PSA/BMW detailed press kit:

www.psa-peugeot-citroen.com/document/publication/DocRefence_GB1147702774.pdf

 

4.2 liters = 4.4380905 qts.
3.7 liters = 3.9097464 qts.

I refilled mine according to the dipstick. IIRC, it took more than 4 qts.

 

I took a measuring cup from the kitchen, measured out water into my drain pan (yellow plastic; matches the car ). I marked 4 quarts on the pan.

The two times I've changed the oil, I've had the front wheels on small ramps raising it 3". When draining I get just over 4 quarts. I'd estimate about 4.2 or so.

4.5 gets it right to the top mark on the dipstick when it's back on level ground.

That PDF is dated 2004, maybe they've revised the oil pan size slightly since then